Mt Hood Summit Bid

[emt0229]

Hi All,

 

I am planning on climbing Mt Hood next year. First, I am looking for more of an Alpine climb with more snow. I don't want to climb it in July. I am wondering, what are the best weather months for an attempt of Mt Hood. I want A LOT of snow, but I don't want to blow my summit chances because of bad weather. I am thinking about climbing Hood in May...Is early May a good time for weather or would it be better to push my dates back to mid or late May or even early July?

 

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

~Adam~

 

P.S. Can anyone show me some pictures of the difference between climbing up through the pearly gates and going by way of the "old chutes".

[TMO]

I have always had my best luck on Hood (conditions wise) in February, March and April.

[KirkW]

Hi All,

 

I am planning on climbing Mt Hood next year. First, I am looking for more of an Alpine climb with more snow. I don't want to climb it in July. I am wondering, what are the best weather months for an attempt of Mt Hood. I want A LOT of snow, but I don't want to blow my summit chances because of bad weather. I am thinking about climbing Hood in May...Is early May a good time for weather or would it be better to push my dates back to mid or late May or even early July?

 

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

~Adam~

 

P.S. Can anyone show me some pictures of the difference between climbing up through the pearly gates and going by way of the "old chutes".

 

Shit...is it that time of year again?

 

All of the beta, including photos, that you are asking for are available on this website. Do a search for Hood in Trip Reports and start sorting through the ton of search results. If you can get yourself a copy of "oregon high" all of your questions will be answered as well. You could also try Googling Mt. Hood and see what happens. You will find no shortage of good info.

 

Could we please get a hood specific forum so all this crap is corralled in one place?

[billbob]

Better yet might we have an Atreides-specific forum to achieve an even greater corralage ?

 

New and uninformed climbers are a fact of life. Everyone is a beginner at some point aren't they?. Some experienced climbers see the importance of helping the uninitiated, others make a living by training, guiding and promoting to newbies. Patience, kindness, even outright friendliness may be required, if one can manage to see a picture bigger than one's own little world.

[ColinB]

Patience, kindness, even outright friendliness may be required,

 

Woah, woah, woah. This is the internets, don't get carried away.

[kweb]

I want A LOT of snow, but I don't want to blow my summit chances because of bad weather.

 

1st.... learn the definition of "alpine climb".

2nd.... wanting "A LOT" of snow but not wanting to deal with the weather that dumped said snow, well.... um, no comment.

 

Why do you want A LOT of snow? Have you post holed up a mountain before? Its not as fluffy and cute as you'd think once your up to your knees in it.

 

If you want lots of snow, its best to pick a time when the snow is well packed. Get some basic avalanche training and gain some experience climbing on a glacier. Then check for a good weather window (I like March) and go for it.

 

Good luck and be safe.

[billcoe]

Could we please get a hood specific forum so all this crap is corralled in one place?

 

Better yet might we have an Atreides-specific forum to achieve an even greater corralage ?

 

New and uninformed climbers are a fact of life. Everyone is a beginner at some point aren't they?. Some experienced climbers see the importance of helping the uninitiated, others make a living by training, guiding and promoting to newbies. Patience, kindness, even outright friendliness may be required, if one can manage to see a picture bigger than one's own little world.

 

I believe if you substitute the word information for the word "crap" in the first sentence, new folks, out of town climbers or folks just looking for current conditions could find their info better and everyone would benefit.

 

To answer that question on top. I think if you could tell us how much snow we will see this winter and how settled the active weather is in spring, we could answer it much better. Furthermore, what is your skill level? Climbing experience? Gear? Do you ski? Winter camp? Good with map and compass or GPS? Are you local or flying in from New York? It all makes a difference. Sorry for the questions. I've summited in every calender month at least once, and think generally, (but there were exceptions) at least as of 15 years+ ago and then some, late May-Early June is the better time to get what you describe.

 

My kids and wife say that one of my larger faults is offering unsolicited advice. But here goes. Get in shape. Learn as much as you can, but the very most important thing for you may be this: when you head up there - do not be GOAL oriented, but be PROCESS oriented. This is how you not just survive it if it goes to total shit, but actually enjoy it.

 

have fun!

[emt0229]

My apologies folks (for not living in Oregon). I live in Colorado...YES! I understand that the Cascades are a completely different beast than the Rockies. I also understand that Hood is not to be taken lightly. Before I proceed, might I just point out that I've done a TON of my own research on google and summitpost and all that good stuff...Excuse the crap out of me because I've never been on your mountain but would like to. Okay, I digress...My skill level is pretty good. I stick to mostly Class III stuff out here in Colorado and the exposure level is around a IV or V. I've climbed slopes/routes with 45 degrees plus. I know how to use crampons know how to use my axe and have done a little work with rope (not much). Yeah, I've post holed up a mountain before...that's what winter climbing in Colorado is unless you stick to a ridge the entire climb or your on the West side of the slopes. What I was trying to ask was, I don't want all the melt off on Hood that you see in late June/July but I don't want to turn myself around because I'm getting caught in a blizzard. How's this (being that you people seem so freaking reluctant to answer my questions) Hows the weather on Hood during mid-May?

 

~Adam~

 

[TMO]

Generally (many will probably disagree) May is a crap shoot with the weather, but there will be plenty of snow cover still.

[dhrmabum]

Dude, wasn't your question already answered over on SP?

Just sayin. . .

But, TMO, thanks for reiterating the same answer to the guy.

[Julian]

Here's the thing: the weather on Hood can vary wildly at any time of year. You've simply got to watch for the right weather window to develop and go for it. So many of the unfortunate stories about Mt. Hood start with something like "Me and my buddies are coming from out of town so we HAVE to do Mt. Hood this weekend because it's when we bought our plane tickets for".

 

My favorite two days on Mt. Hood were a climb on the Reid Headwall the weekend after last Thanksgiving, and taking my newbie friend up the South Side on a perfect, cold day in mid-March. For contrast, one of my friends and I got basically blown off the mountain over Memorial Day weekend while trying to get to I-Rock. I honestly think if you are looking for a lot of snow then winter/spring is not a bad time to go, if you can get clear weather. But I like the cold so that's just me.

[emt0229]

@Dhrmabum...Look at the times I posted the questions...Almost at about the same time. So no, my answer was not received first on summit post. I swear to God, I don't know where this arrogance comes from in regards to the ENTIRE climbing community in general. Either way, to the people that took the time to answer my questions I appreciate it.

 

~Adam~

 

[dhrmabum]

So sorry to offend. Truly.

Just noticing that you posted this "what's the weather like in May," question this morning on here, while many answered that question for you yesterday, in fact, over on SP, when you were asking your questions. Maybe you hadn't read those answers yet, dunno. . . Carry on.

Edited September 23, 2010 by dhrmabum

[emt0229]

My apologies for getting snappy..I don't know, I see the same crap here in Colorado when someone new to climbing wants to tackle a 14er (not that I'm new to climbing, just new to Oregon). Yeah, for one reason or another, I can't navigate to summit post right now. I appreciate the help though.

 

~Adam~

 

[KirkW]

My apologies folks (for not living in Oregon). I live in Colorado...YES! I understand that the Cascades are a completely different beast than the Rockies. I also understand that Hood is not to be taken lightly. Before I proceed, might I just point out that I've done a TON of my own research on google and summitpost and all that good stuff...Excuse the crap out of me because I've never been on your mountain but would like to. Okay, I digress...My skill level is pretty good. I stick to mostly Class III stuff out here in Colorado and the exposure level is around a IV or V. I've climbed slopes/routes with 45 degrees plus. I know how to use crampons know how to use my axe and have done a little work with rope (not much). Yeah, I've post holed up a mountain before...that's what winter climbing in Colorado is unless you stick to a ridge the entire climb or your on the West side of the slopes. What I was trying to ask was, I don't want all the melt off on Hood that you see in late June/July but I don't want to turn myself around because I'm getting caught in a blizzard. How's this (being that you people seem so freaking reluctant to answer my questions) Hows the weather on Hood during mid-May?

 

~Adam~

 

Since you did all the google searches and stuff this is probably a waste of your time but I ran a couple for you.

 

I used really complicated search criteria for this one. "Mt Hood Weather Patterns"

 

http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=navclient&gfns=1&q=mt+hood+weather+patterns

 

first result...

 

http://web.oregon.com/weather/history_gorge.cfm

 

 

interesting second result...

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Hood_climbing_accidents

 

Good luck with your climb. Let us know the dates and we'll see if we can arrange good weather for your trip.

 

 

[Alex]

There are fine mountain forecasting services out here, you just need to watch them closely for a window of high pressure, and be willing to fly out short notice. PNW is not Colorado: we never have predictable good weather anytime of the year except MAYBE August.

 

Hood is a very mellow climb via South Side even in the dead of Winter, as a solo provided the weather is good and you know how to self arrest. Bring an axe, cramps, and a helmet. If the weather is not good, don't go.

[Holk]

Oregon's weather is often rather unpredictable and you really cannot go off of what the current forecast has to say about it.

 

I cannot say much about the mountain for the upcoming year, but can relay some information about this year and past. The last four years in Portland (how long I've lived here) have yielded a nice weather window in mid-late Feb. - about 2+ weeks - and although most people forget this it seems to happen every year. During this time the crowds are fewer and the Avy danger typically seems to be minimal. However, keep in mind it is a LOT colder and you still want to be off the mountain early to avoid ice fall hazards.

 

I also made Hood's summit in mid-June this year, but found that I'd much rather take the 40mph/-8 windchill over potential debris from crowds. Many of this year's later season climbs were also halted due to extreme Avy hazards, albeit it was a rather intense Spring/Summer. Good luck to ya, Emit; I like Emit better.

[sweatinoutliquor]

For Pearly Gates, follow this group

 

For Old Chute, follow this group

 

Seriously dude, I googled old chute, clicked on images and this is what came up... Don't come on here acting all pissy cause someone pointed out your google skillz are shit. Sometimes we flame people with at least twice as many posts as you have!!

 

Seriously though, I'd look from March to May for the best weather window, I usually avoid heading up there is the forecast calls for more than a 40% chance of precip. Bring you rock gear too, cause it's really nice to head over to Smith if you think the weather is gonna suck up on the hill.

[TMO]

"a nice weather window in mid-late Feb. - about 2+ weeks - and although most people forget this it seems to happen every year"

 

Every year since I've been paying attention to it (20!!!). Now the secret is out.

[Alewarrior]

I have climbed it in mid may before and for me it worked out well. I planed to climb on a thursday and flew in on monday to rain in Portland and the area for the next 2 days but then high pressure was coming in for later wed. The weather on Hood was nasty to say the least on Tue. and Wed. But on Wed. afternoon the wind came up to like 70 MPH and the storm blew off. The next morning was bluebird. Perfect. I would suggest going on a weekday to avoid the crowds. When I went up there was a girl from P.M.R. on the summit first, and thats it. All to ourselves.

[mrpink]

lol I guess we get a little protective over our mountain... I Like It!

[LonelySummit]

I've had great luck in April / May the last three years. If it was me Adam, I would schedule a trip for 5-7 days, plan on Hood the second day or so. If the weather is crap at the lodge, then head to St. Helens for a little 2 day camp and climb. Maybe by the end of the week, the weather improves for Hood. If you want a fun place to stay; try the Kennedy School in portland. Or try couch surfing with another climber.

 

I'm sure none of this helps; but at least it may point you in some direction for a plan.