Callahans reopen

[g orton]

Access is again open to the Callahans after a short closure for fire season.

 

The upper gate is open on Saturaday and Sundays, sunrise up to sunset, and typically remails open until March 15 (consistant with hunting season in that area). If this year is like past years the lower gate on Touchstone may or may not be open at times, so I recommend entering and leaving throught the upper gate. After March 15, hunting season ends and you run a higher risk of being locked in.

Edited September 6, 2010 by g orton

[g orton]

Being fall, if you are visiting the Callahans, this is also the best time to visit some of the winerys in the area for wines that are just coming out. Especially this year.

 

Hillcrest Vineyard (http://www.hillcrestvineyard.com): When you're coming down Callahan Rd from the upper gate turn left (north) onto Elgarose Rd (about a mile before coming to Melrose Rd). Take Elgarose to the top of the hill, then turn left onto Vineyard Ln where you will also see the sign to their tasting room.

 

Melrose Vineyards (http://www.melrosevineyards.com): Heading north (more or less) through Melrose at the store turn left onto Melqua Rd and drive about a mile or less until you see the Melrose Vinyard on your right.

 

Cruz Farms (http://www.krusefarms.com): Just before you turn from Melrose Rd onto Garden Valley you will see Cruz Farm's outdoor market on the right side of the road. This is the place to get fresh sweet corn. The only way the corn could be any fresher is if you pick it and eat it right at the stalk. which they would probably let you do if you asked.

 

Reustle Vineyards (http://www.reustlevineyards.com): If your heading back to Eugene instead of turn right at Garden Valley Rd into Roseburg, take a left heading northwest on Garden Valley. Just after MP 12 turn right onto Cal Henry Rd. Drive this road up into the canyon were you will take your first left through an iron gate and down a steep hill to the tasting room (10:00-5:00). They offer a wine pairing that I recommend.

 

Henry Estate Winery (http://www.henryestate.com): Continue north on Garden Valley Rd to where it crosses the Umpqua River and dead ends into Hubbard Ck Rd. Turn left onto Habbard Ck Rd and drive 1000 feet to where you will see Henry's on your right.

 

Lighthouse Bakery (http://lighthousecenterbakery.com), closes 6:00pm (4pm on Sunday). From Henry's head the other direction on Hubbard Ck Rd past the Garden Valley Rd bridge. Hubbard Ck Rd will become Fort McKay Rd and the Sutherlin-Umpqua Rd. You will stay on this road until you come to I-5 at Sutherlin. But, at the jct of Fort McKay Rd and Tyee Rd be sure to stop at the Lighthouse Bakery.

 

I wouldn't recommend visiting four wineries in a single trip, but if you do you'll probably want to stay the night in Roseburg or River Forks Park (where the N and S Umpqua meet)in which case you'll want to visit McMenamins downtown at the railroad station.

 

Edited September 15, 2010 by g orton

[billcoe]

Much appreciated! But can we just hit up your house and be able to taste them all in one shot Greg?

[g orton]

No problem, Bill.

You can even try our high octane home made Ripple made from our hand picked Thompson Seedless.

 

greg

[billcoe]

Homemade Ripple? Whoh, had a bad expedience as a 16 year old with ripple and I just threw up in my mouth a little bit in remembrance:-)

 

[Drederek]

What guidebook would you recommend to find and get around the Callahans? I saw some stuff on mtnproject and am interested in comparing it to our local world-class sandstone crag. I asked about it at a gas station on our last trip up from cali and yes the guy knew where it was and no he wasn't going to tell us. Whats that all about?

[billcoe]

What guidebook would you recommend to find and get around the Callahans? I saw some stuff on mtnproject and am interested in comparing it to our local world-class sandstone crag. I asked about it at a gas station on our last trip up from cali and yes the guy knew where it was and no he wasn't going to tell us. Whats that all about?

Greg up there (Poster G orten) has written 3 or 4 of the most recent guidebooks, thick pretty books: so we're not ignoring you as much as we are all deferring this question to him.

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Western-Oregon-Rogue/dp/1879415461/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpi_2

[justinp]

Add Acker Rock to ur list Drederek. Also in the same guide book… Just had a great weekend out there with Atreides ticking off two of the classics Peregrine Traverse and Eagles Dare. Thanks to Harold and Greg

[Lucky Larry]

Homemade Ripple? Whoh, had a bad expedience as a 16 year old with ripple and I just threw up in my mouth a little bit in remembrance:-)

 

you too?

[rob]

doesn't ripple have the distinction of being one of the few wines that have never seen a grape?

[g orton]

Drederek,

I doubt the gas station attendent was a climber or he would have given you directions.

Guides for the Umpqua are sold in Eugene at Back Country Gear, REI, and McKenzie. In Roseburg at While A Way Books on Harvard St., in Ashland at the Outdoor Store, in Medford at the Gym.

The Callhans have just over 200 routes spread out over about 2 miles so it's not to hard to find the place to yourself. The rock is a fine grained sandstone of sediment from the Idaho granitics.

[Drederek]

Thanks for the response, it'll most likely be next summer before I get down there but I certainly will. Until then I'll just have to pick up the appropriate guidebook and cultivate patience. Its good to know there are no nefarious reasons for locals to not want outsiders poking about.

[g orton]

Justin,

Glad you had fun on Eagles Dare!

That is a fun route, especially at night.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Oregon/Southern_Oregon/Acker_Rock/Eagles_Dare/

 

greg

[g orton]

For anyone braving the climbing on the west side, the changing weather has brought out the Golden Chanterelles this week.

[g orton]

Or boulder on the coast? Keep an eye out for the King Bolete.

 

Saturday, Nov. 7 was a perfect day on the Peregrine Traverse. On the top of pitch 2 even found a bunch of Matsutakes Mushrooms.

 

Fall climbing and Chanterelles!!

Edited November 12, 2010 by g orton

[Teh Phuzzy]

I was glad to hear that I was mistaken in thinking that was mycelia on the base of that stem.

 

 

Edited October 27, 2010 by Teh Phuzzy

[denalidave]

doesn't ripple have the distinction of being one of the few wines that have never seen a grape?

I'm learning a lot, I did not even know wines could see. Wow, who'd a thunk?

 

That crag looks pretty sweet too, albeit it maybe a bit chossy. Is is choss?

[KirkW]

That crag looks pretty sweet too, albeit it maybe a bit chossy. Is is choss?

 

On the Oregon choss scale I'd rate it mostly solid. Everything we climbed was pretty good. I think it's actually similar to tuff. Super grippy and juggy fun. Take a wrench if you go. We found several loose hangars. But they were all shiny and new!

[J_Kirby]

Acker and the Callahans are well worth the drive. I'll be closing on a tiny lot down on Touchstone Lane soon, so I'm going to be spending some time down there this winter, clearing, camping, and climbing. There are a lot of good climbing days in the Callahans during the winter so you don't really have to wait on weather. Acker is another story.

[justinp]

Acker and the Callahans are well worth the drive. I'll be closing on a tiny lot down on Touchstone Lane soon, so I'm going to be spending some time down there this winter, clearing, camping, and climbing. There are a lot of good climbing days in the Callahans during the winter so you don't really have to wait on weather. Acker is another story.

 

Nice! Congrats on a lot in a stellar location. I contemplated heading down to the Callahans Saturday when the rain foiled my plans in the McKenzie…. I just could not bring myself to drive clear down there and find wet sandstone. Suppose It’d be nice to have a local to give the go no go down there this winter

[J_Kirby]

Hopefully I'll be down there enough to be helpfull on the current weather. I'm not going to be living there, just using it for a base camp of sorts. Eventually planning on developing a couple of campsites for others to use as well. It was incredibly cheap so I couldn't resist. Especially with the neighbors down there being a sort of armed neighborhood watch . . .

[g orton]

Great we need a campsite in the valley. Where did you find land?

The weather was great last week until Saturday night. On Friday we found three new cracks to climb in the Callahans and on Saturday spent the day with students on Acker. I posted a photo from our Acker trip above.

[letsroll]

So how is the climbing in the winter months down there? More or less rainy than portland. How many days does it take to dry out after a rain event?

[g orton]

I don't think I would incourage making the 3 hour drive down from Portland for winter climbing in the Callahans. That said, the absolute best time for climbing here in the winter is when the cold heavy valley fog has set in. The heavier the fog the better.

How many days does it take to dry out? Faces with south aspects like Lizard's Ledge dry almost as soon as the sun hits them. Three days of sun is a safe bet for other less south facing walls.

Edited November 12, 2010 by g orton

[Checat]

I will second Mr. Ortons comments in terms of climbing above the fog at the Callahans in the winter is an amazing experience. So often you can catch a great day climbing above the fog, where the rest of valley may have stayed socked in.