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eldiente

Index Sport climbs?

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Does anyone have any recommendations for sport climbs near Index? I'm only familiar with the usual trad routes there. My partner is looking for clip-ups in the 5.9-5.11 range, anything like that exist around there? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

-Nate

 

 

Edited by eldiente

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Cunning Stunt seems like the most well-traveled sport route in that range that I know of. 5.10d but it felt way easier than similarly graded trad routes...

 

There is a pretty dense concentration of sport routes at The Country:

http://mountainproject.com/v/washington/index_town_walls/lower_wall/105790671

 

But I'm talking out my ass because I don't climb that hard.

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There are TONS of great sport climbs at index but most/all of them are in the 10d or harder range check out the stuff in the country... some of the easier single pitch climbs are Cunning Stunt and Elvis Nixon. If you are willing to go multi pitch Leave my Face Alone and Hairway to Stephan are good as well (if you can get over from frank presley or elvis nixon ... we went up zoom which your friend should not do). The stuff above the tunnel would be good too if you are willing to lead the 5.7 gear pitch up to it (can you get over there from the top of cunning stunt).

 

Some decent tens and easier 11's along the base of the upper wall and nearby crags too (checkout earwax wall and the stuff below the perverse traverse).

 

Note there may be signifigant runouts on easy ground on some of these routes and some might even take a piece of gear or two to make them safe (Gorilla my Deams springs to mind, Cunning Stunt takes a small cam or two before the first pin if you want, leave my face alone includes a bit of loose gully you could place in).

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There are probably upwards of 200 bolted pitches in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. The country has a bunch, so do blues cliff, and the upper wall is covered in 5.11 clip ups. They might not quite be what you'd expect for the grade though.

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Thanks this a good start! Is there some sport wanking at another cliff neat Gold bar? I seem to recall someone tell me there was good sport climbing at crag neat the stop-ligh/traffic jam on Hwy 2. Thoughts?

 

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Thanks this a good start! Is there some sport wanking at another cliff neat Gold bar? I seem to recall someone tell me there was good sport climbing at crag neat the stop-ligh/traffic jam on Hwy 2. Thoughts?

 

Zeke's Wall has a handful of sport climbs, but it is not a sport crag - you would be disappointed to be up there with no rack. There are a few other sport crags off of highway 2, but unless you have ticked off the Index classics, your best bet is to stick with the Upper and Lower Town Wall.

 

My TL to you...

 

**Country

-Cunning Stunt

-Climax Control

-Wham

-Kite Flying Blind

-Little Jupiter

 

**Blues Cliff

 

**Upper Wall Multi-pitch Sports Climbs

-Heaven's Gate

-Golden Road

-Tempichuous

 

**Ear Wax

-Sideshow

-Everest Without Lycra

-Raggedy Anne

 

hopefully I am remembering route names correctly

Edited by orion_sonya

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What about that crag up on the forest road (62?)?? Bolted overhanging sport routes is what i heard years ago

 

Nice blog/ website you've made Kurt!

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The key handhold on Terminal Preppie broke.... Now its harder than 5.11.

 

IMHO Heavens Gate is by far one of the funnest routes in Washington. The roof moves on the last pitch are incomparable to anything else in Washington at 5.11a. I could climb it everyday and never get tired of it!

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Does anyone have any recommendations for sport climbs near Index? I'm only familiar with the usual trad routes there. My partner is looking for clip-ups in the 5.9-5.11 range, anything like that exist around there? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

-Nate

 

 

There is no need to endorse or perpetuate sport-climbs at crack-friendly Index. There are plenty of such climbs at Exit 38, Little Si, (off of I-90 out of North Bend) or other chossy monstrosities. Resist the clip-ups and keep it clean. That's the future.

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Does anyone have any recommendations for sport climbs near Index? I'm only familiar with the usual trad routes there. My partner is looking for clip-ups in the 5.9-5.11 range, anything like that exist around there? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

-Nate

 

 

There is no need to endorse or perpetuate sport-climbs at crack-friendly Index. There are plenty of such climbs at Exit 38, Little Si, (off of I-90 out of North Bend) or other chossy monstrosities. Resist the clip-ups and keep it clean. That's the future.

 

Clean gear is history. Bolts, and the Boltomatic 2012 are the future. Embrace.

bolt_gun.jpg

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Does anyone have any recommendations for sport climbs near Index? I'm only familiar with the usual trad routes there. My partner is looking for clip-ups in the 5.9-5.11 range, anything like that exist around there? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

-Nate

 

 

There is no need to endorse or perpetuate sport-climbs at crack-friendly Index. There are plenty of such climbs at Exit 38, Little Si, (off of I-90 out of North Bend) or other chossy monstrosities. Resist the clip-ups and keep it clean. That's the future.

 

Clean gear is history. Bolts, and the Boltomatic 2012 are the future. Embrace.

bolt_gun.jpg

 

please not another bolt thread!

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Can it Raindawg, nobody cares about your thoughts on bolts.

 

Don't even bother with the FS62 routes they're really just chossy, mossy, short, and crappy. Go climb the fantastic clip ups on the Upper Town Wall.

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Does anyone have any recommendations for sport climbs near Index? I'm only familiar with the usual trad routes there. My partner is looking for clip-ups in the 5.9-5.11 range, anything like that exist around there? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

-Nate

 

 

Nate....in 2006 by buddy and I climbed a 6 pitch slab about 20 miles down the road (east) from Index. the wall was huge with a ton of sport climbs. I wish I could tell you where it was. Its about a 15 minute approach. Its worth looking into.

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Does anyone have any recommendations for sport climbs near Index? I'm only familiar with the usual trad routes there. My partner is looking for clip-ups in the 5.9-5.11 range, anything like that exist around there? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

 

-Nate

 

 

Nate....in 2006 by buddy and I climbed a 6 pitch slab about 20 miles down the road (east) from Index. the wall was huge with a ton of sport climbs. I wish I could tell you where it was. Its about a 15 minute approach. Its worth looking into.

 

Money creek road?

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And how about the large granite wall that you can see down the road, just before you take the left turn over the bridge into Index? Sore thumb? thimble? I cant remember what it was called...

index_shot.JPG

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And how about the large granite wall that you can see down the road, just before you take the left turn over the bridge into Index? Sore thumb? thimble? I cant remember what it was called...

 

DRep and I hiked up there once to check it out. It didn't seem worth the while once we actually got up to it. Plus, that whole southwest face had major rockfall a couple times in the the last year. The gully below the buttress was littered with debris and I didn't feel safe being below it.

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You're referring to Toms Thumb. I went up there a while back. The only side that is safely accessible is the southwest face which had a massive rockfall a couple years ago. It looks cool from a distance but up close it is a TOTAL SKETCH FEST.

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which handhold on terminal preppie broke? theres the sidepuls with the high foot smear on nothing at the crux, then you reach out far to the left to grab that incipient crack. is it the hold in the crack? cause once you hit that the crux is over. if it's harder now what is it? 12a?

 

sorry I just NEED TO KNOW

Edited by keenwesh

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And how about the large granite wall that you can see down the road, just before you take the left turn over the bridge into Index? Sore thumb? thimble? I cant remember what it was called...

 

DRep and I hiked up there once to check it out. It didn't seem worth the while once we actually got up to it. Plus, that whole southwest face had major rockfall a couple times in the the last year. The gully below the buttress was littered with debris and I didn't feel safe being below it.

 

Well thats just too bad. dang.

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