[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 8/24/2010

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge

 

Date: 8/24/2010

 

Trip Report:

I got a 4 day permit to the Colchuck Zone this year as a consolation prize for no Enchantments Permit. What to do? My first idea was to climb Serpentine Arete on day 2, rest a day, then go up and over Aasgard with full packs, climb Prusik and hike out via Snow Creek trail on day 4.

 

Well, as the time got near, we decided to try for a permit change to facilitate this plan... or maybe a different plan. But, when we arrived to pick up our permits... no dice. So we decided to climb Prusik on day 2, and hike back to camp. If that went quickly enough and we thought we could handle a long day 3 climb of Serpentine, well, go for it. Otherwise hike out. We ended up doing the latter, with a very nice summit day in the Enchantments yesterday.

 

We had an easy day one, hiking in to Colchuck in about 3 hours. We retired early (7 ish) and got up at 5 am. We were moving out of camp within an hour. The path to Aasgard was 99% snow-free and took about two hours to do with fairly heavy day packs. In a couple more hours we were at Prusik Pass and scrambling to the balanced rock.

 

Path up Aasgard:

 

In the upper Enchantments:

 

The objective comes into view:

 

Prusik Peak:

 

DS scrambling:

 

SS standing by the balanced rock:

 

There were four of us: JF, DS, SS, and KK, JF and DS started up first. I followed on their heels, leading pitch one. It was still fairly early and chilly, so I had to lead the first pitch in a shell jacket. This got us to the ridge and sun, and from then on out it was t-shirt weather. SS led the second pitch to just below the crux. I led the crux and set up a belay on the ledges just after the exposed traverse. SS led up the 5.6 hand crack and stopped just before the flake. I led the flake and the chimney, and, thankfully my fat-ass fit through it.

 

DS following on the crux:

 

Exposed moves past the crux:

 

It was reasonably early, and a party of two caught up to us. We offered them to use our rope to rappel ahead of us, which they gratefully accepted. They had hiked in from Ingalls Creek/Crystal Creek that day!

 

KK on the summit:

 

We then did 5 single rope rappels down the N face and scrambled back to the balanced rock. It was around 4:30 or so, so we knew we needed to move to get back to camp.

 

Looking down after final rap:

 

Beautiful evening view in the upper Enchantments:

 

We were at Aasgard again around 7 pm, and back on the trail around the lake at dusk.

Descending Aasgard was a thrill none of us wanted to repeat in a day. It was very buggy on the descent. Bring DEET.

 

View done from Aasgard. Note smoke from 8 mile fire:

 

At this point we all agreed that one climb would be enough for this trip. Especially since it went so well. 14.5 hours camp to camp was work enough for us. :-)

 

We hiked out today in a couple of leisurely hours and proceeded directly to town for beer and brats at Munchen Haus. Damn it was hot in town!

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Small alpine rack. Trekking poles. Sunscreen. DEET.

Edited August 26, 2010 by KaskadskyjKozak

[genepires]

purdy pictures.

[summitchaserCJB]

That's fun!

[kevino]

I thought I knew this area pretty well, but where is Longs creek?

[summitchaserCJB]

Where is Prusik Peak?

[OlympicMtnBoy]

They're both a bit east of Renton (past the school).

[kevbone]

I wish Prusik was not 10 miles are hard hiking from the car. Nice pictures.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I thought I knew this area pretty well, but where is Longs creek?

 

I was tired when I wrote that up... will fix :-)

[dennyt]

They had hiked in from Ingalls Creek/Crystal Creek that day!

 

What did they have to say about that approach?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

They had hiked in from Ingalls Creek/Crystal Creek that day!

 

What did they have to say about that approach?

 

They said that the 7+ miles up Ingalls Creek was mellow and pretty easy. The Crystal Creek part had no trail but was not too bad, either. They liked the absence of permit hassles.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Fred likes that way too. I've wondered what that Crystal Creek bit is like nowadays.

[Le Piston]

That is a long day (I've done it from Colchuck Lake myself) any way you look at it. Strong work! Thanks for the great pictures...I'm inspired to head back up there for a repeat!

[denalidave]

I wish Prusik was not 10 miles are hard hiking from the car. Nice pictures.

This fact weeds out the wannabees...

Think of the crowds it would bring if it was 10 minutes from the car.

 

Nice trip.