kevbone Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 Olsons guide has YW listed as 5.9, if that is the case then the SE corner (which is listed as 5.7) is 5.6. Quote
JosephH Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 I'd say it's by and large a 5.7 with an occasional moment of 5.8 (p1), 5.9 (p2, p3), and a 5.10ish one-move boulder problem (p4). Quote
kevbone Posted August 25, 2010 Author Posted August 25, 2010 I'd say it's by and large a 5.7 with an occasional moment of 5.8 (p1), 5.9 (p2, p3), and a 5.10ish one-move boulder problem (p4). Â So if there is one move of 5.10a. Then it has to be rated 5.10a..... Â Â Quote
JosephH Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 Yeah, I'd agree with that. But how many people actually do that move versus the slab walk-around to the left? Quote
ivan Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 how many times have ya'll kicked the rating of yw aroudn? Quote
kevbone Posted August 25, 2010 Author Posted August 25, 2010 Yeah, I'd agree with that. But how many people actually do that move versus the slab walk-around to the left? Â You missing the best part of the entire 450 foot line if you skip out left IMO. Â Â Quote
kevbone Posted August 25, 2010 Author Posted August 25, 2010 how many times have ya'll kicked the rating of yw aroudn? Â How many times have you been reminded to lead by example with your spelling? Teacher right? Quote
geoff Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 He is a Camas teacher after all. Â But really, only true masters of the language have license to twist it. Quote
ivan Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 yes, the interwebs are clearly the place to let one's diction n' grammar shine  highly contrived to call yw 5.10, even 5.9 really Quote
kevbone Posted August 26, 2010 Author Posted August 26, 2010 yes, the interwebs are clearly the place to let one's diction n' grammar shine  highly contrived to call yw 5.10, even 5.9 really  coming from you that is true considering you freely admit you go left at the bolt. Quote
JosephH Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 I suppose it's possible the variation of the p4 crux I do is harder than necessary and different from some 5.9 variation I missed that others may do, but it is secure throughout the move though definitely a solid 5.10 move. Quote
billcoe Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 how many times have ya'll kicked the rating of yw aroudn? Â DaaaBulls! DaaaaBears!! DaBeaconnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn!!! Quote
ivan Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 yes, the interwebs are clearly the place to let one's diction n' grammar shine  highly contrived to call yw 5.10, even 5.9 really  coming from you that is true considering you freely admit you go left at the bolt. a climb is contrived if you can super-easily avoid the difficulty that you hang the rating on - skipping the .10 part of p4 is so easy i imagine must folks don't even realize it could be harder Quote
JosephH Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 I wouldn't argue the contrived point by any means given it's a shuffle to the left and you're up. How was it done on the FA? Up and over or stage left? Quote
pink Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 (edited) if u want isolated lines i suggest the NEEDLES Edited August 26, 2010 by pink Quote
LostCamKenny Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 if u want isolated lines i suggest the NEEDLES couldn't you have suggested someplace further away? Quote
kevbone Posted August 26, 2010 Author Posted August 26, 2010 yes, the interwebs are clearly the place to let one's diction n' grammar shine  highly contrived to call yw 5.10, even 5.9 really  coming from you that is true considering you freely admit you go left at the bolt. a climb is contrived if you can super-easily avoid the difficulty that you hang the rating on - skipping the .10 part of p4 is so easy i imagine must folks don't even realize it could be harder  Maybe, either way, going straight up over the bolt has all the excitement in it. IMO. 350 feet up with no handholds. Yikes…..super fun move. I think I have gone left 2 times in 14 years. It did take me a while to sack up and lead the 4th pitch because of that move.  Good times to be had.  I give that move 10.a  Quote
geoff Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 If we bump it to 10b it will really help my scorecard. Quote
JosephH Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 ...350 feet up with no handholds. ... I give that move 10.a There are definitely small, but very positive handholds on the variation I do of it. I agree with the 10a rating on the move, though. Quote
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 If we bump it to 10b it will really help my scorecard. Quote
kevbone Posted August 26, 2010 Author Posted August 26, 2010 If we bump it to 10b it will really help my scorecard. Â Quote
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 Since were changing ratings now, I vote Blownout should be 10d. Quote
denalidave Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 Since were changing ratings now, I vote Blownout should be 10d. Not that it will help my scorecard as I always get my ass blownout on the damn thing anyway... Quote
billcoe Posted August 26, 2010 Posted August 26, 2010 Since were changing ratings now, I vote Blownout should be 10d. Â 1st pitch or 2nd? Â Â How many points on 8a do ya get for 10 laps up the SE Corner? Quote
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