Mt Slesse Pocket Glacier

[chittyman]

Hey, I went up to do Slesse this weekend and got batted royally by the pocket glacier. It was broken, serac'ed, and totally creepy. We got to within a hundred yards of the approach ledge a couple times but didn't care to bait the objective hazard enough to get there. Two questions: How have people climbed slesse this season, how can I find out what the conditions are on the pocket glacier before I drive 10 hours to get there. thanks

[giza]

Has anyone been on the NEB this season? Seems like everyone waits for the glacier to slide. There's usually a notice on this forum from someone when it does clear so check in regularly

[G-spotter]

how can I find out what the conditions are on the pocket glacier before I drive 10 hours to get there.

 

I usually just check the webcam

[ivan]

there's also the direct approach, eh?

[ScaredSilly]

We did the direct a couple of years ago:

 

 

Worked for us though a bit stout for some as it was 5.10+ in places which was a bit dicey with packs.

[kurthicks]

helicopter in.

[tomtom]

That's only for sponsored climbers.

[Colin]

Yes, there have been some ascents of the NE Buttress this season. I know only from looking in the summit register after climbing the N Rib. Keep in mind that the Pocket Glacier is easy to deal with early in the season, gets worse as it breaks up, and then gets easy again when it is mostly all gone.

 

However, considering that it is already August 7, and there is way more snow in the high Cascades than typical for this date, I won't be surprised if the Pocket Glacier doesn't go away this summer.

 

The direct is obviously an option, which I haven't done but supposedly has quite good (but brushy) rock. Unfortunately the basin below the NE Buttress has way more bushwacking than it did several years ago, so the approach to the direct is probably a bit of a pain now. Another option is to traverse the N Slesse Glacier and get on the NE Buttress from the climber's right side. I don't believe this has ever been done, and looks potentially dirty, but I'm sure it's doable.

[cytryn]

I was up there yesterday (Aug 14, 2010) for an attempt at the NE ridge but we got stopped by the pocket glacier as well. We were going light (no crampons/axes) but that idea started looking pretty stupid once we got through the notch. Still a lot of snow/ice up there and it isn't soft in the morning despite the heat. Instead, we headed up the new Crossover descent trail to check it out and get a better view of the pocket glacier and route. The picture is from the meadow at the top of the treed section of the descent route.

 

(click for bigger version)

[Sang]

Anyone had a crack at this lately? What are the current pocket glacier conditions? Passable?

 

Thanks

[G-spotter]

 

Here's the webcam shot from aug 24...

[giza]

Gnarly ass hunk o choss

[Colin]

I climbed the NE Buttress with a friend on Tuesday, Aug 23.

 

We successfully crossed the Pocket Glacier, with crampons and a tool each. It was not simple though, definitely a bit sketchy, and I couldn't recommend it at the moment. Considering that it is already almost September, and the freezing levels are hovering around 7,000ft. the next few days, I doubt the Pocket Glacier will go away completely this year (but who knows?).

 

One other option that I noticed: You could go to bivy below the pocket glacier (just past the notch), and then make a low traverse below the Pocket Glacier to the start of the NE Buttress Direct. This traverse is obviously exposed to anything coming off the glacier, so you would want to be very quick. It looks to be on easy rock ledges though (class 2, maybe a move or two of class 3), and avoids heinous bushwacking to get on the NE Butt Direct.

 

This was my 4th time descending via the Crossover Descent, and I'm pleased that it gets easier every time. It was a casual 4 hours from the summit to the car. The high traverse along the ridge is finally developing a bit of a track (although a very subtle one still). I was also pleased to discover that it is very easy to avoid the one rappel on the crossover descent, with just a short (100m) traverse on the east side of the ridge (although on steep heather).

 

The trail that we built a month ago seems to still be in great shape. Go use it and keep it from disappearing!

 

Also, there is a lot less snow on the Crossover descent than one month ago, but there is still one snowfield where we put our crampons on. But I'm sure it's doable without crampons with a bit of care.