Dru Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 Maybe you and Donna TopRope could form a team, "Butch Chossity and The Moondance Kid". Sort of like Big Bird and Snufflupagus or Reinhold Messner and Friar Tuck. I don't think you invented the Moondance either. I think Moon Unit Zappa did. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 Captain Caveman, you really are an ignoranus, aren't you? Neanderthals don't Moondance? Quote
willstrickland Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: I have not purchased a Freind since I found out that Jardine was a hold chopping muther fucker. Pope have you? Not trying to antagonize here TG, but Jardine sold the rights to the design a long long time ago, I think your sentiment is a little misplaced. Jardine is a asshole for chipping that...but what about Lynn using the chipped holds on her "free" ascent of the Nose (I think Lynn is awesome, but shouldn't that be The Nose VI 5.13+ A0?) Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 Get some glasses. Neanderthal-style, yo. Quote
Juneriver Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 I, too, am curious about the Moondance. not even Yahoo search came up with an answer... So, what is it? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 I got coke bottles Still waiting to find out what a moondance is..... I think I already know about chocolate and I don't want any Quote
Dru Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Juneriver: I, too, am curious about the Moondance. not even Yahoo search came up with an answer... So, what is it? Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 Mmmmmmm..... The Moondance. Known of by a few, understood by even fewer.... I don't know if you could understand.... So, my hirsute heel, you know of the "chocolate"? And you still say nay? MMmmmmm..... sexual chocolate!!!! Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 I'm sorry guys, I don't mean to tease. It's just that it's my art. It's my passion. And I've seen how things get ridiculed on this forum. You guys are vicious sometimes.... So for me to talk about Moondancing in a serious way.... I can't do it. Maybe I can share at a later time, but right now, I definitely feel too vulnerable. Quote
willstrickland Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Juneriver: I, too, am curious about the Moondance.... So, what is it? A Van Morrison song...Am7 to Bm7 repeat for the verse... Quote
lizard_brain Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 sexual tension- How much would you charge for a moondance for Drul and Cavey? Quote
Alpine_Tom Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 http://star_world.tripod.com/Moondancers.html Quote
willstrickland Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: Will: I was hoping to read a comment from you about my original posting. I didn't comment because I basically agree with what you wrote. However, I do believe that the term "environmental damage" in this argument goes beyond the destruction of the physical rock and contains the element of destruction of the aesthetics. Bolts are ugly, so is chalk...chalk washes off. Some will call me a hypocrite because I say if you can't climb it (established routes) without adding bolts then stay off it, yet I go out and climb wall routes that have chicken bolts added or rivet and bolt ladders on them. I've never added a fixed piece to an established route intentionally (I've had passive pieces that I couldn't clean and one cam that welded when I fell on it) but I have used the chicken bolts. I clipped the new bolt on Kor-Ingalls, I also clipped that first bolt on Serenity crack. Does that make me a hypocrite? Maybe, but I do it my way, you do it yours...and if you come in my back yard and retro-bolt something just because you can't get up it in the same or better style than the FA, then expect it to get chopped. Here's a little story of how I went from a passive dislike of bolting to an active one: I worked a short,hard crag route in Alabama that was originally done with pre-placed trad pro. My goal was to do it placing the pro on lead. This route is only about 40 ft, but the climbing is hard and sustained (I don't generally use ratings in posts here, but maybe numbers will put this into perspective...the route is 5.12b R, the crux sequences both involve big dynos over brass nuts). I worked it on top rope for a few days, mixing it in with my other climbing. I worked out the sequences the first day, fired it clean on TR the second day. On the third day of work a week later I just worked it looking for the most feasible stances to place the gear and exactly what gear to place where. It was only going to accept three pieces of gear and two of these were being placed from very pumpy stances. Falling while placing the first or second pieces would mean groundfall. About a week later I went back and put in several ascents on TR stopping to place the gear over the course of a weekend. I felt ready and made a plan to come back the next weekend with my most trusted partner, to do one TR ascent, rest and wait until conditions were cool in the late afternoon. Forecast was for rain the next weekend so we stayed close to home (it never rained). Mid week we roll over there and I'm just amped, sweating and nervous before we even get out of the parking lot. I was psyched, nobody around but us, this could be my finest accomplishment or put me in the hospital and we'd soon find out. We walk up to the pinnacle that the route is on and I drop my pack and start gearing up. My partner suddenly goes "Holy shit, what the f$&*# is that?!" Some bastard had retrobolted the line as well as the three other lines adjacent to it. Needless to say I was pissed, and although I probably could have got on it and just done my thing ignoring the bolts, it destroyed that psyche I had going and I knew without the right frame of mind I could not do the route safely (or at all). After the inital anger wore off I examined the bolts...the stupid bastard didn't even place them in good places for clipping (I was scoping them from the ground). We did some bouldering, climbed a few easy classics, then went into town. We bought a wrench and hacksaw, grabbed the claw hammer and prybar in my partner's rig and chopped the line and one of the adjacent lines (as far as I knew at the time the other two were FA's by the bolt-whore, later I found out they were also retro-jobs). We show up next weekend and the little bolt-whore had re-bolted it. We didn't have the chopping gear so we did other stuff and went home. I left the southeast soon after for grad school and never did the route. If you are ever climbing at Sandrock, AL the route is Called Tales from the Hard Side and is located on the Holiday Block. Quote
Dru Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 after you chopped it you should have weakly glued the hangers back on as a trap for the dogging retrobolter. "OK TAKE -splat!" [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 10-11-2001).] Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 That was a nice site Alpine Tom, indeed it was, but it was NOT about moondancing. Moondancing is about DANCING, as the name implies. It is a style of dancing, non-pornographic, very stylized and orchestrated, relying on terrific foot-speed and coordination, along with certain sleight-of-foot tricks that can take years to master. It has actually helped tremendously in my climbing. In fact, I think it's the main reason I have climbed 5.13, although only on rap-bolted sport routes. So please don't criticize what you don't understand. Quote
lizard_brain Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 quote: Originally posted by lambone: Suck My little Pony!hhehehehehehehe 'bone- Don't criticize things you don't know about! You're sooooo insensitive! Now give sexy a nice hug. Â Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted October 11, 2001 Author Posted October 11, 2001 Thanks for the story Will. It's a good one and I can comiserate with you. It should be a good example to those that would bolt with out thinking. I'm glad that you brought up chalk. I have recently been rethinking it's use. I've decided to only use chalk where it is already there. If I can't climb aesthetically clean rock without chalk< I'll climb something else. Quote
Alpine_Tom Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: That was a nice site Alpine Tom, indeed it was... I appologize. I usually try to avoid the cheapest possible humor. I went out on google to see if I could figure out what moondancing was (why anyone would search for anything in the Internet with Yahoo is beyond me) and I found this, and I couldn't resist. I guess I'm in a pissy mood because I've been fighting with a Compaq server all day. (Time to look into backhoe driving school again.) Anyhow, sorry for the smart-ass website posting. (It was sort of funny, though, wasn't it?) Â Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 It was damn funny! My Little Pony is my way favorite! Quote
Retrosaurus Posted October 11, 2001 Posted October 11, 2001 quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: 'bone- Don't criticize things you don't know about! You're sooooo insensitive! Now give sexy a nice hug. Sounds to me like 'bone has intimate (if not carnal) knowledge. Quote
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