kurthicks Posted July 6, 2010 Posted July 6, 2010 Trip: Mt. Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir Date: 7/6/2010 Trip Report: Kyle Flick and I climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir yesterday car-to-car. It was the first time for each of us since 2005. As expected from the recent TR, we found the route to be in great condition for this late in the season. The couloir itself had a fair bit of ice and neve-ish snow, after approaching over a breakable crust near the 'schrund. The ridge was rimey and fun mixed action. The route will probably be out of condition really soon due to the increasing temps, but it was cool in the shade and may last another week or so. pictures can do the rest: Kyle clears the Stuart 'schrund looking up the couloir taking it to the ridge on the West Ridge on the north side Pulling the crux on the last pitch The Sherpa 'schrund. outta here! Gear Notes: .3 camalot, .5 camalot, #1 trango max cam, 6 stoppers, 1x 16cm screw, 25m 8.1mm rope. bootied two pickets on the Sherpa, but we caught the owners on the trail and gave 'em back. Approach Notes: in via Stuart Lake Trail, out via mountaineer Creek Quote
JasonG Posted July 6, 2010 Posted July 6, 2010 Nice work Kurt! Hard to believe it's been five years, eh? I have fond memories of that climb- esp. Juan saying "you get the cruxes- I have kids." Now, two kids later, I get it. Hopefully we'll get out together in the hills again one of these days . . . JG Quote
YocumRidge Posted July 6, 2010 Posted July 6, 2010 What a sweet line! What the mixed section goes at? M3-4? Quote
kurthicks Posted July 6, 2010 Author Posted July 6, 2010 M-easy. snowy and cold rock that is 5.6 in the summer. Quote
goatboy Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 Nice work, Kurt! Great pics. Man, the couloir itself looks splendid. The rimed rock? Not so sure. Quote
kevino Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 I just want to point out how awesome the picture is of you climbed rimed rock with ice tools and barehanded...in july. Don't see that too often in washington! Quote
Juan Sharp Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 Man did I really say that Jason? What a chicken I am. I do have a picture of you on my gear room wall leading the cruxy block move on the north side. Such a gentleman you were. Your pal Juan Quote
Kyle_Flick Posted July 7, 2010 Posted July 7, 2010 Ah John you're sandbagging. While I wasn't there, we all know you've got the mental toughness to handle any situation and were more than capable of leading. You WERE the gentleman to hand over the lead. Besides...we lawyers have to stick together. Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted July 8, 2010 Posted July 8, 2010 Looks good! How was the traverse on the N. Side? Your pics make it look harder then I remembered! Quote
kurthicks Posted July 8, 2010 Author Posted July 8, 2010 the traverse was my favorite pitch, although some of the rime had melted by the time we got there. The pitch had some 80+ degree snow, some hand jams, and lots of hooking. at one point I was jamming with one hand, camming a tool in the other, and stemming between snow and rock nubbins. stellar! Quote
zoroastr Posted July 8, 2010 Posted July 8, 2010 Amazing C2C effort...humbling. Thanx for sharing! Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted July 8, 2010 Posted July 8, 2010 Yep, sweet! Great pics and fantastic looking trip. Good on ya, gentlemen. Thanks for sharing. Quote
Juan Sharp Posted July 12, 2010 Posted July 12, 2010 Hey Kyle -- didn't they teach us to sandbag in law school? I'll track you down to catch up. My new e-mail is john@johnmsharp.com and the website is www.johnmsharp.com. Later! Juan Quote
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