[TR] Mt. Rainier - Ingraham Glacier Direct 6/30/2010

[summitchaserCJB]

Trip: Mt. Rainier - Ingraham Glacier Direct

 

Date: 6/30/2010

 

Trip Report:

So I finally made the long slog to the summit of Rainier. It's been a long time coming but I made it. My first trip fell through due to weather so I randomly called my dad's old climbing budding and he was in. One of my other partners bailed cause he's out of shape (no offense Chico- your words). We got up early Monday morning and were on the way with some Starbucks. When we got to Paradise we registered and donned our heavy *relatively* backpacks for the hike to Muir- which went well considering. We got up to Muir and Bryan got cold fast so I set up the tent. While he got warm I built a snow wall to buffer us against the wind. Then I started the stove up to brew up. All the time we were at Muir, save for brief moments of sweet calm, the wind shook our tent with amazing force. But the Hilleberg is no weakling.

After eating we settled in for the night to the sound of flapping tent. We decided to get up at midnight to hopefully get in front of the hoards. We were moderatlly successful in that respect. When we woke up I surveyed the surroundings- a large group near the hut were milling around. One party had begun traversing the glacier. Good news all and all. We took our time getting ready, getting on clothes and gathering hardware. We strolled out of camp at 1:45 am, just behind a small group and in the midst of a line of 15-20 climbers we later realized were a guided group. We passed this group when they took a break at Ingraham Flats, but they later caught us when Bryan's crampon needed to be repaired around 12,000 feet, ect. ect. ect. They seemed like a nice party and kept us informed about the elevation. Well, after fixing Bryan's crampon and ensuring our continued elevation gain , we trudged ahead into the increasing wind and cold. We never took long breaks- just short nutrition stops. We were passing many, thankfully, graceful, or shall I say magnanimous groups on the endless switchbacks. Then at around 13,500 the wind started. And I mean really started. It cut through us like we were wearing nothing but thin cotton t-shits.

I kept looking back at Bryan, who has summited Rainier 2 times at least and tried the speed record back in his day, to see signs of fear, fatigue, ect. But each time he would tell me to continue. I was amazed at Bryan's fortitude. Many groups stopped and huddled into groups, donning their finest articles of clothing they never dreamed of wearing in basecamp but saved for this situation.

I admit, the wind was scary. Mainly because it made us so cold. But I realized the best thing was to keep moving. So that's what we did. We trudged on and made the summit at around 6 am. It was very cold on the summit as well. We sat for a few minutes and watched one of the only other parties to summit congratulate each other. It was a pretty anti-climatic summit really. I took a marginal summitshot with my camera. After a few minutes the only thing that made sense was to go down, so that's what we did. We passed dozens of parties going up or down, all a confusing mess to us. We made good time going down. At Muir some climbers came up to us and told us we were the first to come back having summited. He called us hardcore. Thanks man. We got back to Muir, packed up camp, and headed down that way as well. The way down from Muir was a bit interesting. I've only been up to Muir in the winter. So on the way up, we took the normal winter approach. But on the approach we saw some Rangers changing the route to the summer route. I didn't think too much of it until we were coming down and I saw a wand X blocking the normal route and a different wand marking a new trail. At this point there was a bit of a fog white out so I couldn't see where I was. I do know I was about 200 vertical above Panorama Point. So, I followed the wands and it seemed to add about a mile to the deproach and was pretty confusing in the fog. Oh well I guess.

Pictures- Proof!

Sincerely,

Summitchaser

 

Gear Notes:

Yep

 

Approach Notes:

Yep

[olyclimber]

Congrats on your new route, sounds like a classic!

[summitchaserCJB]

Ya man. Thanks. The guys that summited before us used aid so it wasn't free. RMI is aid.

[summitchaserCJB]

Oh, I forgot to add-

[olyclimber]

Bryan was the hero for me in this epic. Let me be the first to congratulate you both on this accomplishment.

[summitchaserCJB]

Epic- like the sound of that.

[Pilchuck71]

No spray in TR's.

 

Congrats on making the summit, chaser.

[NateF]

Way to stick with it through the wind, you had to have been at least a little psyched to summit!

[summitchaserCJB]

oh completely. just the wind kicked our butts. awesome freakin climb.

[LostCamKenny]

pretty cool, dude!

[Dizzle]

The route change and fog on the way down was a trip. We had a guy in our group that left gear in the restrooms at pan point. Good thing for GPS and good way points.

[BirdDog]

The route change and fog on the way down was a trip. We had a guy in our group that left gear in the restrooms at pan point. Good thing for GPS and good way points.

 

There's a restroom at pan point?

[ScaredSilly]

There is a restroom all along the route to Muir. Just look for the yellow dots along with occasional brown/green/red/yellow puke spots.

[YocumRidge]

There is a restroom all along the route to Muir. Just look for the yellow dots along with occasional brown/green/red/yellow puke spots.

 

And higher up too. No GPS needed.

 

Good job regardless, summitchaser.

[Ryan Canfield]

Nice, I was up there a few days before you with excellent conditions as well. Good work.

[summitchaserCJB]

The route change and fog on the way down was a trip. We had a guy in our group that left gear in the restrooms at pan point. Good thing for GPS and good way points.

 

There's a restroom at pan point?

yep.

[jacramer]

summitchaser,

 

I saw your post earlier. How did it turn out getting camping permits? Will it be possible to get a first come first serve site if I climb mid week (mon and tues nights)?

[summitchaserCJB]

Ya you probably will. We had no trouble. It was interesting though- I figured we'd get a spot in the hut with a relatively early start-wrong! The hut was full but we basked in a 3 man hilleberg. Only problem was the wind. Good luck.