jacramer

Went up the right gully yesterday. Bergschrund mantle was the crux move. The rest was mostly firm snow, with alpine ice at both steps. We actually found more ice, albeit low angle, on the descent down the south side... We had planned to descend Cooper Spur but conditions were too firm/icy on the eastern slopes. For whatever reason, not descending CS, seems like a popular choice. Is it possible that good conditions for the NF usually equal bad conditions on CS? Our overnight kit remains cached in the Cooper Spur climber hut. We plan to retrieve on Fri. If you happen to steal it, please be kind enough to let us know so we don't walk all the way in there for nothing. NE Face First 'ice' step Above the second step View of the hogsback area, for those interested. (Note party of two continuing up @~2:30) Gear Notes: Most of screws were questionable in the snow/ice mixture. An extra pickets would have been nice. Approach Notes: Snow flotation was unnecessary. Cloud cap road is closed, use Tilly Jane Trail (+1:45). Took approximately 50 cars before our "Hood River $20" sign worked, and we got a ride back to our car. Apologies to the party behind us. We were getting nailed by a lot of natural spindrift/ice fall. I imagine it was even worse for you guys. We hope you made it up and down safely.

It wasn't that bad. The same looseness/exposure as the traverse from red saddle to the NW side of the pinnacle, but for several thousand feet... Went in via Pamelia. A leisurely 12 hours c2c. Trekking poles and a light pack help on the scree. With no crampons or axe, I had to skirt the snow below to the south (left). Conditions view from halfway down the SW ridge.

Went up Jeff West Rib yesterday. Down the SW ridge. As predicted, it was snow free. Running water from a snow patch was also available on the traverse around 11am.

Dropped my Nomic while skiing down the Colchuck Glacier on 5/15 and didn't realize it until I was back at my car. Went back up on 5/17 to try and retrieve it but a few inches of fresh snow made that impossible. If you happen to come across it please return for a $60 reward and loads of good karma.

Nice work gents. I rope soloed this route back in May and that same bear also smoked my haul bag cached at the base. I was able to haul from the ground with a 60 though after swinging way over to the left. Barely reached and there was some cluster fuck but didn't have to pass a knot. Congrats.

How about an article on ice screws? The link to the already posted article isn't working. I think more technical articles are a great idea. The fabrics and insulation sounds good. Maybe one on surviving/enjoying(?) alpine bivies. Or an article going over what has changed since Twight's Extreme Alpinism. Parts of it are still relevant but others seem really dated. Has there been a better resource published? Andy Kirkpatrick on his website has an awesome collection of articles with useful tips and tricks. Although it can be skewed a little towards English climbing sytles. One of my favorites was to tie your boots/shoes with a reef knot instead of the classic shoe lace knot. The reef knot will not loosen. Great when ice climbing. I haven't seen this tip anywhere else and it makes too much sense. So more stuff like that but from American climbers.

weather does look shitty but im down for both days. let me know 616-460-7140 jack

PM sent regarding mountain hardware and rei softshells

I'm up for Jefferson during the week days. Although the forecast does not look great. Let me know if you would like to give it a shot.

Pretty sure I left my ipod at the base of fat crack yesterday (6/7). Totally bummed and have little hope of ever seeing it again. However, if a kind soul out there did find it I would be happy to reward with $20 in cash or alcohol.

Heading out to smith tonight for a week or so. Got a partner planned for sat/sun but would like to climb with anyone on the weekdays. I've got a few easy aid routes I'm gonna try solo but would like to do some free climbing too. Lead 10-/7 (sport/trad) but I've done most the classics up to those grades so happy to follow higher. Give me a call, Jack at 616-460-7140

email sent on aztars

summitchaser, I saw your post earlier. How did it turn out getting camping permits? Will it be possible to get a first come first serve site if I climb mid week (mon and tues nights)?

I was up to Moraine Lake on SS today. The Devils Lake Parking lot was not plowed but there were spaces to pull off nearby. The trail has seen some traffic and there were some ski tracks coming down.