Best Crag to learn trad

[Eric K]

What do you think the best area to learn and practice trad climbing in washington is. I am just starting and looking for a good learning environment. I climb sport in the high 5.11 range so I am mostly looking for climbs under 5.10. I live in western WA but don't mind traveling every once in a while.

[Crillz]

11worth.

[tradhead]

Royal Columns at Tieton has good climbing at a variety of grades. Smoke bluffs at Squamish...

[kurthicks]

go aid some cracks at index. learn what gear is good and what isn't.

[rocketparrotlet]

I learned (and am still learning) trad at Index. If you can climb 5.9 at Index, 5.9 crack climbing will feel easy almost anywhere else. Plus, on most of the "easier" routes, pro is very good.

[summitchaserCJB]

It depends. If you want to eventually get on legit 5.10 trad then I'd say, once you have the basics, go hone your craft at Index. But bring a good dose of humility.

[Sherri]

go hone your craft at Index. But bring a good dose of humility.

 

And a patient belayer.

[summitchaserCJB]

haha that too. But if you work up the grades it shouldn't be necessary? In theory?

[SemoreJugs]

Exit 38 is really where it is at. There are all of these shiny chicken-head features on the rock with these holes in them. I find I am able to take a quick draw and just clip it through. Its a lot easier than trying to figure out those camming device things. I can never find a place to stick them. And I never get my quick draws stuck!

[kevbone]

Beacon Rock for Washington...... Joshua Tree for the rest of the country.

[rocketparrotlet]

Exit 38 is really where it is at. There are all of these shiny chicken-head features on the rock with these holes in them. I find I am able to take a quick draw and just clip it through. Its a lot easier than trying to figure out those camming device things. I can never find a place to stick them. And I never get my quick draws stuck!

 

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/video/winger-for-the-weekend-36

[selkirk]

Mileage and variation!

Easy Seattle Access - E32, Repo 1 / Repo 2

 

5.7 to 5.10 - Tieton / Leavenworth

5.9 to 5.10 - Index / Tieton

 

I love Index, but unless you're leading pretty solid 5.9 elsewhere there isn't all that much to do there. Once you're solid at 5.9 in Leavenworth or Tieton, then Index really opens up IMHO.

[Peter_Puget]

Castle Rock is a good location.

[markwebster]

Castle Rock, Leavenworth. 6 pitches of 5.4. Nuff said.