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Posted

It wasn't sewn up with pins like it is today. We were placing pins though and I remember using my bongbong on the 5th pitch, that flaring slot.

Actually here is the ending. A climber had been killed over on the Index peaks that same day, so Mountain Rescue had been called in to help get the body down. They were in the area and someone called in that there were 2 climbers on the upper Town Wall in the storm so they came and set up base camp at the parking lot unbeknowse to use. We got to the top of the wall, and I was standing there in the storm coiling the rope, the wind and the rain pelting me, knowing that we were going to make it, just the descent. All of a sudden out of the darkness a helicoptor with a spotlight comes in out of the fog and puts its beam on me and holds it there. I slowly raised my arm and gave them the middle finger salute. Probably not the smartest thing I ever did, but at least they got the message that we didn't need to be rescued. When we got back to the base, the sheriff was there and grilled us, and they were all pissed off about me giving them the finger. What can I say, I was 18 and feeling studly that we had overcome and fought our way thru it all. Then as I recall, we fired up a twister in Stans truck.

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Posted

There's an Epic Scale that goes from 1 to 5, just like Aid ratings.

 

E1 is like you got benighted on the route and when you got back to the truck, you'd lost your keys, and then when you hitched home, you were out of beer.

 

E2 is about the same but your garbled text message from the summit was misinterpreted by your mom, and SAR got called out to look for you.

 

E3 has blood loss and first aid kits involved, maybe a broken leg you hobble out on, or a ruptured appendix 3 days into a week long ski tour on a remote icefield.

 

E4 is up in the realm where you are about to bite it on an 8000m'er but miraculously find the abandoned pack of Japanese gear that has enough spare rope and pins o get you off the face (ref. Suffer Machine, Twight/Blench/Blanchard etc.)

 

E5? You're not just touching the void, you're fisting it.

 

If you or other people in your party die, it's no longer an epic. It's a fuck up. Come back alive.

Posted
There's an Epic Scale that goes from 1 to 5, just like Aid ratings...

I'm not familiar with taht one, but I like how it has more range than the one I am familiar with.

 

Revving up: Much like your E1/E2

 

Yellow Line Epic: Injuries abound, but not so serious that it can't be dealt with. Much like your E3.

 

Red Line Epic: Serious injuries, someon'e being carried out, short-hauled, rescued, etc.

 

Throw a Rod Epic: Someone died. It's a fuck up.

Posted

The great thing about this thread is it has introduced me to that 'epic fail' website, haha that shit's hilarious :D

 

I can now thank cc.com for showing me that and also 'i can has cheezburger', surely two of the greatest gifts of the internet age.

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