cam hooks...

[111]

I buggered up a finger pulley a bit ago and am out for the season. I figured this was as good a time as any to sort out this aid climbing nonsense. After a few leads at Broughtons and Skinners Butt, I am thinking I need to get some new toys. I just got some hooks, and was intrigued by cam hooks. I'd like to hear some thoughts on their merit and usefulness. What sizes have you found most useful? Should I even bother?

[tomtom]

Cam hooks are meritorious and useful in thin cracks. Get narrow and wide.

 

Avoid using in soft rock like sandstone.

[111]

no sizes in between? is there just enough overlap between the two to negate the others? isnt the wide negated by the use of cams?

[111]

and are you recommending the extra narrow or just the narrow?

 

ah, and another question, with leeper gone, Moses is taking up the reigns it looks like. Are those an ok brand?

[billcoe]

Get some. It looks to me like the Moses stuff is every bit as good as the Leeper cam hooks. http://mosesclimbing.com/cam-hooks/

 

I've found that what Theron describes on the site is right on the money truth: the 2 middle sizes most useful, but if you are climbing at Smith or other soft rock, the large one is mfg out of aluminum and will help to not destroy the rock and should be utilized every chance you get. For thin cracks, put them on the biners that are on your aiders and you can crack jug, left right left right, dropping in a piece of real pro (nuts camz etc) here and there when your nards shink up.

# Narrow

# Wide

# Extra Wide/ Fragile Flake

 

all good. The smallest one is a rare placement and if it never existed no one would probably notice it. Now that I've said that, someone will pop in and say that the crux on XXX route is one of the damn things LOL!

[JosephH]

Theron has taken over Ed's production. They are every bit as good as the ones made by Ed. And get some of Theron's Tomahawks while you're at it.

[fenderfour]

they make thing nutting less scary.

[King Beatard]

For thin cracks, put them on the biners that are on your aiders and you can crack jug, left right left right, dropping in a piece of real pro (nuts camz etc) here and there when your nards shink up.

 

Are you saying that I should stick the things in without climbing all the way up the ladder? - So, instead of putting the cam hook in and climbing up the ladder until my nards shrink up, I should place the hook and then place another one before climbing too high in my aiders? No wonder I shit my pants using them solo aiding; that or I'm just a pussy.

 

[111]

And get some of Theron's Tomahawks while you're at it.

I am not quite to the nailing stage yet. Eventually, I am sure, but for now, I am focusing on the Clean Aid.

 

(I assumed tomahawks are for nailing, but I may be mistaken... Is it a super thin hook?)

[fenderfour]

Beaks (tomahawks included) can be used like nuts. Hand place them, weight them gently and hope they hold.

 

You may want a hammer to tap them out afterward. Sometimes they get stuck, even when hand placed.

[LostCamKenny]

No wonder I shit my pants using them solo aiding; that or I'm just a pussy.

more likely the latter

[justinp]

Cam hooks rock!!! Good to hear you are coming to the dark side Ian. I will have to get you out soon.

 

not a cam hook but just as butt puckering when soloing (P1 bubbas)

 

Tyler was saying this one likes to blow! Glad I did not here that till afterword.

 

[billcoe]

...Adam, no - sorry, I meant to say you hok then climb up the ladders. Hook, climb etc etc