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summitchaserCJB

Rating/Name of route on boulder near GNS

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I have something to add.

 

I had pandora on, so I watched your vid to "Gracefully Facedown" by The Devil Makes Three. And it was awesome.

 

Either way, strong work.

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The gym just seems easier because you do it more.

Not to be argumentative but I almost never go to the gym but I climb outside a ton (check my TR's- that is not even everything I've done so far this year.) -Not to toot my own horn either just filling you in. I've been to the gym once this year but have climbed outside at least 20 times so far. And most of those times were at Index so- I kinda know a little bit about that area and its rating system.

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Not to be argumentative but I almost never go to the gym but I climb outside a ton (check my TR's- that is not even everything I've done so far this year.) -Not to toot my own horn either just filling you in.

 

:lmao:

 

 

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I didn't mean to insult, more to encourage you to try some harder routes at index.

 

I checked your TR's and they are rad but I didn't see any attempts on anything harder then 10- which eliminates most of the climbing on the lower town wall...I can only speak from my own experience, but I was stuck doing those same routes until I got somewhat serious about bouldering/gym climbing and developed the strength to do the harder stuff. If you are already bouldering harder then you lead by the widely accepted conversion you should ask what is holding you back when you tie in, not assume the ratings are off.

 

There are tons of really fun 11 routes at index. With decent crimp strength by gym v4 standards and a good pair of shoes (anasazis, miuras or kattans. Not mythos or other shoes that can't edge) lots of them are totally doable, even onsite-able...

 

 

 

 

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There are tons of really fun 11 routes at index. With decent crimp strength by gym v4 standards and a good pair of shoes (anasazis, miuras or kattans. Not mythos or other shoes that can't edge) lots of them are totally doable, even onsite-able...

 

In the 10+ to easy 11 range you might try Cunning Stunt, Tunnel Vision, Angora Grotto, Leave My Face Alone, and Heaven's Gate. Others I haven't done but want to are Kite Flying Blind, Hairway to Stephen and Golden Road. They're safe so go for it!

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There are tons of really fun 11 routes at index. With decent crimp strength by gym v4 standards and a good pair of shoes (anasazis, miuras or kattans. Not mythos or other shoes that can't edge) lots of them are totally doable, even onsite-able...

 

In the 10+ to easy 11 range you might try Cunning Stunt, Tunnel Vision, Angora Grotto, Leave My Face Alone, and Heaven's Gate. Others I haven't done but want to are Kite Flying Blind, Hairway to Stephen and Golden Road. They're safe so go for it!

 

Nice list!

 

I'd add:

Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters, Pressure Drop, p3 Japanese Gardens (11a fingers) and Death to Zeke ... man this is getting me stoked!

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Not really offended- just annoyed by this site sometimes. I've TRed thin fingers with a very short rest at the crux so I have the strength and technical ability to push into the 11's- maybe when you consider placing gear. Just a matter of pushing the mind. And heart of the country is 10b. I don't think it is correct to call that 10- (?)

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Plus and minus once you hit the letter grades imply some difference of opinion on the grade, possibly influenced by body architecture.

 

10- is a or b

10 is b or c

10+ is c or d

 

5.9+ usually means its 5.10 but people have called it 5.9 for a long time. :laf:

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Plus and minus once you hit the letter grades imply some difference of opinion on the grade, possibly influenced by body architecture.

 

10- is a or b

10 is b or c

10+ is c or d

 

5.9+ usually means its 5.10 but people have called it 5.9 for a long time. :laf:

Got cha off white. I thought so but wanted to verify...

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but what kind of 5.12? Cracks, thin face, offwidths, pockets, overhanging tufa?

 

You must stick with apples to apples and oranges to oranges...

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There are tons of really fun 11 routes at index. With decent crimp strength by gym v4 standards and a good pair of shoes (anasazis, miuras or kattans. Not mythos or other shoes that can't edge) lots of them are totally doable, even onsite-able...

 

In the 10+ to easy 11 range you might try Cunning Stunt, Tunnel Vision, Angora Grotto, Leave My Face Alone, and Heaven's Gate. Others I haven't done but want to are Kite Flying Blind, Hairway to Stephen and Golden Road. They're safe so go for it!

 

Nice list!

 

I'd add:

Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters, Pressure Drop, p3 Japanese Gardens (11a fingers) and Death to Zeke ... man this is getting me stoked!

 

There's also thin fingers, elvis nixon, zoom, heart of the country, sagitarius, etc...

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Heart of the Country has a 10a hands section and an 11b crack, if I recall correctly.

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Also, try free-soloing GNS on a busy Sunday with a rope on your back, and a full rack clipped to your harness. Then video tape yourself on a 5.9 boulder problem. That would be sick!

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Not really offended- just annoyed by this site sometimes. I've TRed thin fingers with a very short rest at the crux so I have the strength and technical ability to push into the 11's- maybe when you consider placing gear. Just a matter of pushing the mind. And heart of the country is 10b. I don't think it is correct to call that 10- (?)

 

Just annoyed but want to point out that thin fingers is basically low - mid 5.10 with a v1-v2 move off a ledge...

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I too have climbed the key rock boulder at the Winter's. V4 might be a sandbag, damn hard to see the holds when dark and carrying an arm full of groceries.

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Also, try free-soloing GNS on a busy Sunday with a rope on your back, and a full rack clipped to your harness. Then video tape yourself on a 5.9 boulder problem. That would be sick!

Four cams and nuts isn't a full rack buddy.

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Not really offended- just annoyed by this site sometimes. I've TRed thin fingers with a very short rest at the crux so I have the strength and technical ability to push into the 11's- maybe when you consider placing gear. Just a matter of pushing the mind. And heart of the country is 10b. I don't think it is correct to call that 10- (?)

 

Just annoyed but want to point out that thin fingers is basically low - mid 5.10 with a v1-v2 move off a ledge...

Index Guide

Edited by summitchaserCJB

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Also, try free-soloing GNS on a busy Sunday with a rope on your back, and a full rack clipped to your harness. Then video tape yourself on a 5.9 boulder problem. That would be sick!

Of course, the part of the story you don't know is I was going to rope solo Breakfast of Champions. But that part of the story just doesn't sound as good, right? :lmao:

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Not really offended- just annoyed by this site sometimes. I've TRed thin fingers with a very short rest at the crux so I have the strength and technical ability to push into the 11's- maybe when you consider placing gear. Just a matter of pushing the mind. And heart of the country is 10b. I don't think it is correct to call that 10- (?)

 

Just annoyed but want to point out that thin fingers is basically low - mid 5.10 with a v1-v2 move off a ledge...

Index Guide

 

hmmm...what is that supposed to mean? :rolleyes:

you can kid yourself that thin fingers is anything but a 5.10 with a small boulder problem off of a no-hands rest..

 

technically, a V1+-V2 move is 5.11- so the V rating is actually a better description of that particular route than a 5.11 rating...

 

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Not really offended- just annoyed by this site sometimes. I've TRed thin fingers with a very short rest at the crux so I have the strength and technical ability to push into the 11's- maybe when you consider placing gear. Just a matter of pushing the mind. And heart of the country is 10b. I don't think it is correct to call that 10- (?)

 

Just annoyed but want to point out that thin fingers is basically low - mid 5.10 with a v1-v2 move off a ledge...

Index Guide

 

hmmm...what is that supposed to mean? :rolleyes:

you can kid yourself that thin fingers is anything but a 5.10 with a small boulder problem off of a no-hands rest..

 

technically, a V1+-V2 move is 5.11- so the V rating is actually a better description of that particular route than a 5.11 rating...

\

 

um...read the guide....

I didn't write it. But it is the definitive guide on Index...

Edited by summitchaserCJB

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