Finishing My Rack

[zhanx]

OK, since I have a year whole to wait for stuff to be on sale, I have been picking up my Rack in pieces through out the year, when it goes on sale I pick it up. After all the gym has no view and I want to be outside anyways.

 

So far I have:

 

BD Wired Hex Set #4-10

BD Camalot C4 Package #0.5 – 3

BD Neutrino Rackpack x2

Assorted BD Dynex Sewn Runners (60,120,240cm)

Huevos Nuts (#4-13)

plus a few more locking biners.

ATC

 

I figure since I will be out every weekend at the minimum this summer and fall. Then I will be on the east coast in VA for the fall. And once I am back I won't have the extra change to toss at gear. But since I am over killing it anyways and got the extra change to blow, thoughts and ideas? on what i should pickup?

 

john

[Kimberlee]

Sooo, I'm definitely NOT an "old hand", but as a "newbie" I tend to ask tons of questions... and asked a bunch of people at stores, fellow students & instructors a similiar question when I took a class I took a couple spring/summers ago & was building my rack. So here's my 2 cents.

 

One of the instructors told me that she & her husband had all kinds of stories of why they never climb without their .3 BD C4. I bought a .3 and .4 and was really glad I did.

 

Later wished I had something smaller for more shallow cracks but wanted to stick with flexible stems -- added a Metolius MasterCam yellow - love it!

 

If you decide to get more wire gate biners, BD Oz were highly recommended to me as lighter than Neutrinos & still insanely strong. I use them on all my trad draws & to rack my pieces. Seems like Neutrinos are the ones that can come color coded - I just added the color I wanted my Oz (ie if I wanted to easily see from the biner which cam was on it while it was on my rack) with a Trango rack tag. They come in a bunch of colors. Pretty sure I came ahead weight wise even with the weight of the extra rack tag & I like the feel of the Oz.

 

I also heard lots of good things about CAMP tricams & liked them when I experimented with ones that others had. Seems like people love them... or... really don't... so you may want to try out a buddy's. I got CAMP's 4 pack of pink, red, blue, brown & have used all of them. John Long & Bob Gaines (in Climbing Anchors 2nd Edition - great book if you don't already have it. Lots of great info on pros & cons of different gear, materials, great pictures on good & poor gear placements...as well as anchors) Anyway - they say these smallest 4 sizes are the most stable sizes when placed so I have stuck with just those. They are relatively cheap, small, light &, well, I think their action is super cool.

 

Last thing. I ended up doubling up on some cam sizes. I bought all my duplicate cams as BD C4 because I liked their features & acton & didn't want to have to debate which cam brand to save for further up the climb. However, C4's are quite a bit heavier than Metolius TCU's - & it added up that my rack is quite a bit heavier (& I think probably bulkier to cram into my pack) than my buddies' who stuck with Metolius. I think MasterCams were just coming out the summer after I'd already bought my duplicates, but if I were buying any duplicate cams now, I'd seriously look at MasterCams (flexible stems) or TCUs (non flexible stems) - for their lighter weight. I think I've heard Metolius cams tend to come with a smaller price tag than the C4's too.

 

Happy Climbing!

[zhanx]

Thanks Kimberlee, Not sure if weight rack is really gonna matter for me. I am already 6'4" 230 I tend not to notice weights less than say 45 pounds but I have rope climbed 60' ropes in full gear with a pack and I know that sucks.

 

tricamps like you said I have seen ALOT of mixed reviews.

 

One question also I should ask, how does the hold up? OR there some brands that wear out faster than others? That is one thing I am not finding in my research

[Lodestone]

 

One question also I should ask, how does the hold up? OR there some brands that wear out faster than others?

 

 

Something's missing. What are you asking about?

 

 

Chad

[ivan]

"finishing my rack" !?! wthell does that mean? a rack is never finished - old coots are perpetually adding something!

 

the need is nebolous - once you are actually climbing all the time it becomes inherently obvious what you need more of

 

everyone likes having a double set of c4s

 

you climbed at seneca? where you should be going when back in va.

[stevetimetravlr]

Protect the wide right side start to Free for All, everybody needs a set of these. http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/index.html

[rocketparrotlet]

Protect the wide right side start to Free for All, everybody needs a set of these. http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/index.html

 

Those are the most expensive pieces of pro I have ever seen.

 

OP: Nuts are great, use them wherever possible and save the cams for when they are necessary or you are pumped. I have found C4 cams to be best in the mid to large sizes and Mastercams to be best in the small sizes, but everybody has their own opinions. My #8 Stopper, however, is by far my most used piece.

 

-Mark

[zhanx]

"finishing my rack" !?! wthell does that mean? a rack is never finished - old coots are perpetually adding something!

figured i would hear that at least once

Something's missing. What are you asking about?

Chad

 

Sorry meant the protection, do certain brands historically last longer that others

 

VG9 and VG12, fit cracks from 5.7-inches (145mm) to 12-inches (300mm).

 

that's big, that's real big

[bstach]

 

that's big, that's real big

 

That's what she said.

[zhanx]

 

That's what she said.

 

hopefully she never realizes that its only 6"

[111]

start doubling the BDs from .5-2

 

Then triple them.

 

I have only found a single set of nutz to be useful outside of aid climbing.

[zhanx]

triple them?

[ivan]

many's the free route you'll want 3 or more of a particuliar sized piece - just cuz you have a giant rack doesn't mean you have to lug it all off the ground w/ you

[bstach]

Your rack sounds good as is, unless you are a gear whore or have lots of money to burn. If you need double cams for certain climbs, thats what partners are for.

 

If you must buy more gear: Get 2 or 3 smaller cams, I find blue, yellow and orange metolius a useful addition to my rack. Hexes are a good way to double up on large sizes without adding alot of weight to your rack (add #11 and #12 hexcentrics). Then double up on the cams that you use most frequently where you climb. Also, the pink tricam seems to be popular here. I don't own any tricams, but those who like them, seem to like them alot.

[mountainsloth]

the one thing missing in my rack is something to protect flares and pockets. that is where the tri-cams and/or offset cams/aliens come in. I will probably go with tri-cams for pockets because they are cheaper, but having some offset cams for flares is quite nice. it just depends on the route you are climbing.

[ivan]

if yer ever gonna climb in zion, you'll need a pink n' a red goddamn tri-cam

[zhanx]

Your rack sounds good as is, unless you are a gear whore or have lots of money to burn.

 

No and Yea right with my job. Money to burn would mean that new giant mtb I have been eye balling the last two years.

[Kimberlee]

Thanks Kimberlee, Not sure if weight rack is really gonna matter for me. I am already 6'4" 230 I tend not to notice weights less than say 45 pounds

 

For sure. Alrighty, so ... that tip about the Oz biners?? Scratch that. Those partial ounces I pinch... sound like they'd be pretty much less than a drop in the bucket to you. Geez - no fair. Excuse me while I go cut my toothbrush handle off.

[Sherri]

 

If you must buy more gear: Get 2 or 3 smaller cams, I find blue, yellow and orange metolius a useful addition to my rack. Hexes are a good way to double up on large sizes without adding alot of weight to your rack (add #11 and #12 hexcentrics). Then double up on the cams that you use most frequently where you climb. Also, the pink tricam seems to be popular here.

 

Exactly.

 

And agreed about eventually adding triples for your favorite sized crack. (BD #2 and 3 for me ) In the meantime, you ask your partner to bring whatever size you don't have enough of for your objective.

[ThorDog]

John,

 

My 2 cents says buy DMM Alloy Offset nuts, also the DMM Peanuts, they work well in flares and Piton scars. As mentioned for hell's sake buy the Camp Tri cam set .5-2 which is on sale right now at mountaingear.com item#111350 for $59.98 for four peices! I've been climing for many years and never leave the ground without the Pink Tricam. Also remember as your cams age that new slings can be sewn on them by BD or Yates!

 

I love Neutrinos, but don't forget just cheap ovals, or "D's", for utility work! If your worried about weight, get wire-gate ovals!

 

Yeah, I lived in VA Beach for 14 years, get ready to drive, but, Carder Rock, Great Falls, Old Rag, Raven's Roost, NRG, Seneca, Stone Mtn., Looking Glass, Whitesides are within driving distance!

 

Thor

Edited April 8, 2010 by ThorDog

[zhanx]

Cutting down the tooth brush to save weight?

 

So after I figure out my favorite sizes of gear then I get to stock up on the triplets. Or I need to find a partner that's got money to burn. Which I am gonna need soon, Since my current partner in crime just got orders to Texas in june. Got car can travel, anyone looking for a partner? (Starting in May). Also he is the one with the rope so now I need to get one of those one day too.

 

Seems the more I get the more I still need to get. But I decided tricams for now, it gives me a completish selection to choose from I guess.

 

Also anyone got links to the Washington Vehicle Laws on lift height for suspension? I want to bring out my trail rig but I don't want to get a ticket as soon as its off the trailer.

[ThorDog]

Check the WSDOT website? Should have height info.

[zhanx]

Thor just noticed your second post. Must have been taking my time typing. missed that deal, oh well.

 

The WSDOT website search sucks. I will have to stop in and ask. Unless I find a 46' jeep willys first.

 

3 Weeks and I will be climbing!

[ThorDog]

Damn dude, I love Jeep Willys, my dad had two of them! Talk about low torque in 4-low you are creeping about 1mph!!! He had a Chevy 350 in one of them and it was built!! Fun times!

[zhanx]

this is what i got now

 

 

its the white thing on the left. But I want a willys.