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[TR] Smith Rock - Air To Spare w/variation start 5.7 A3 X 1/21/2010


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Posted
Tyler,

I was at smith over MLK and a number of people thought your rope was set up to be the rope swing somewhere near there. A lot of people swung around on that thing regardless of the coreshot. I know you are doing lots of cool shit at smith that doesnt get done much, but you have got to stop leaving ropes hanging off every blank face. They are an attractive nuisance and an eyesore. I could care less about ropes left up in obscure places, but leaving them on frontside smith walls is not good.

 

<3 Ian :provoke:

 

Hey Ian babe! You know I mean no harm... Ryan got really sick so we got delayed a week wich included MLK weekend. I think more about that rope on Soft Shoe Ballet than any one so trust me its nothing I'm proud of but the "Jim Anglin Memorial Route" must be pushed to the top! For Jims sake! Plus those assholes chopped the bottem off the rope so now its a whole differnt story. Fixed crap is part of climbing at Smith if it wernt for all the crap hanging what would the tourons have to look at on a lonely day. And what about all the chalk stains! You know I try to keep it as real and as pure as possible! I'm coming over this week to work my fat off on your wall!

 

Love, :ass:

 

 

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Posted

hey, you can still jug on that rope on soft shoe! i clambered up and yanked on it just this last weekend - it'll be reaaaaal interesting starting on it though for sure! :)

 

so when do i get to come along on one of this freak-show aid-thangs you do boy? :grin:

Posted
hey, you can still jug on that rope on soft shoe! i clambered up and yanked on it just this last weekend - it'll be reaaaaal interesting starting on it though for sure! :)

 

so when do i get to come along on one of this freak-show aid-thangs you do boy? :grin:

 

When you quit being a teacher and climb with me during the week!! haha no soon enough dood were getting out one of these next weekend to come.

Posted

giant budget cuts this year - i might be w/ you midweek sooner than you think - course, i'll probably have to blow every hobo along the way for gas money...

 

...shit, i got a 3 day weekend coming up this next weekend...maybe i can get away for a night...

Posted

heres some pics

 

IMG_1541small.jpg

me jugging, ryan at the belay (note: i think its kinda steep)

 

IMG_1543small.jpg

belay meeting me on the left ryan on the right

 

IMG_1544small.jpg

ryan starting to nail the second pitch where you join air to spare after 2 placements

 

IMG_1546small.jpg

ryan launching into the free climbing up to the ledge above him to a long traverse to the left and into the hobbit hole

 

all photos by Jacob Ringold... thanks dude!

Posted
giant budget cuts this year - i might be w/ you midweek sooner than you think - course, i'll probably have to blow every hobo along the way for gas money...

 

Well, if you show up looking like a giant Glazed Donut, I think it might be difficult getting partners to tie in with ya.

Posted
anybody know if picnic lunch wall is gong to close this year?

 

if it does it will really put a damper on my plan to scare the sheeeet out of myself on bubba's again. lets just hope that the falcons at smiff will nest somewhere on mendenhall ridge - barely anyone goes over there anyway...

Posted
anybody know if picnic lunch wall is gong to close this year?

 

My guess would be probably not, as Julian the ranger last year left and he was the one that brought that on. But I would not be at all surpised if it happens again.

Posted
anybody know if picnic lunch wall is gong to close this year?

 

My guess would be probably not, as Julian the ranger last year left and he was the one that brought that on. But I would not be at all surpised if it happens again.

 

who is the current ranger?

Posted

Currently there isn't a ranger on staff at Smith Rock. The park has a park manager (Dave Slaught), and I think a bathroom cleaner (Big Jay), and they have some park hosts who are camping out in the Bivy Area in their RV. The park manager was down in the canyon today handing out dog tickets for leashless pets. Thankfully my dog was on the leash when I ran across him.

 

They did just finish doing interviews for the ranger position at Smith and they offered the job to someone. Dave said the guy was young and had experience elsewhere as a ranger. He also said the guy told him that he would give him three years at that park before looking for a promotion. It is too bad that to advance in the State Park system you have to transfer so nobody ever stays at a park very long.

 

 

Posted
anybody know if picnic lunch wall is gong to close this year?

 

if it does it will really put a damper on my plan to scare the sheeeet out of myself on bubba's again. lets just hope that the falcons at smiff will nest somewhere on mendenhall ridge - barely anyone goes over there anyway...

shit dood, we didn't even get to the scary part on that trip :)

 

though, for the 2nd, you did see the worst part... :P

Posted

The picnic lunch closure was listed on a sign down by the bridge/water fountian last time I was there, about a month ago. smith rock.com also says the picnic lunch wall is closed february thru july.

 

Once somehting like that gets posted what has to happen to reverse the decision.

 

hey ivan, what did Walter Sobchak say about the bowling match being already posted for saturday?

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