Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Dane

New Quark Ergo!

Recommended Posts

Dave actually turned me on the photo of Ueli Steck from last week.. Thanks Dave! Then I did a little snooping around with a few buddies and got this :) Remember you saw it first on Alpineexposures.com. OR show in SLC next week should be fun.

 

"new Quark Ergos... ridiculously aggressive though"

Similar first impression that a Nomic makes. I'm way stoked to see them in person and get them out on some ice!

 

MG_1198.jpg

 

http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya cool Curt...not that they are bad tools but DMM also pays him a shite load of money to do so ;)

 

If "you" (not Curt 'cus I know he knows better) are judging tools by who chooses to climb on them you have missed a few things inbetween. Take a good look around Jon's web site (worth your time if you like alpine) and you'll see BD, Petzl and Grivel are well represented on some good climbing....and even a picture or two of Nick and his mate here and there on DMM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is Pertz's new line up, sadly for us tool junkies, not available until Fall of 2010. Pretty radical new Ergo. But then we all thought the Nomic was radical when it was introduced. Costs run from some where around $330 on the Ergo $300 on the nomic and $250 on the new Quark.

 

All the past tools are now discontinued :( Picks and parts will obviously be available for most for some time yet.

 

Nothing past the old Nomic pick and the new hammer/adze is interchangable. Takes a new tool to get the new end piece.

 

Nomic

aiq.sized.jpg

 

aip.sized.jpg

 

Ergo

air.sized.jpg

 

Nomic/Ero and Quark hammer (adze otion as well)

ais.sized.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Couple additional bits of info on the new Petzl hammer and adze.

 

The hammer weight is 58g

The adze weight is 69g

pick weights per pair is 65g

 

The cold thistle hammer is 33g and a closer profile to the shaft offering a better balance on the tool. Same idea with our adze. CT adze weights less but I can't qoute the numbers right now.

 

acc.sized.jpg

 

I had hoped that our pick cut and Petzl's would have been closer. No doubt you have two options now. Petzl's version is built to pound a lot of pins but you loose some of the amazing balance of the tools because of that. Our version is lighter certainly strong enough for the intended purpose but offering a lot better balance in use.

 

Fun to see that our design work is exactly the same as Petzl on the interlock with the full weight of the hammer and adze slot supported inside the tool head.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is that clamp-on upper grip rest on the Ergo going to be available separately? I'd like to throw those on my Nomics...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, they call it the "Trigrest" and it is listed as a seperate part. It will work on three now tools and Isuspectthe old ones as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, given now 3 tools the next best beta would be to find out the actually intended uses and reasons for the line-up. Clearly Quark and Nomic are upgrades, what about the Ergo, in intent, not official mumbo-jumbo? Really dry tooling on super steep terrain, or some mixed use possible by average folk? Because of the length of the upper shaft seems to be suited for rock more than ice.

 

Also, with so few canges to the new Nomic and so many people already having them... I am in for a $50 custom end piece :)

 

Again, thank you so much!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So few have climbed on the Ergo yet Rafeal. Even Ueli Steck didn't get his till last week and I was told everything out is still prototypes and even showed why. Really only cosmetic changes but all the tools at the show are marked "sample not for sale". Couple of Petzl guys were able to got out on them last night but I didn't get to talk with them.

 

But from the guys like us using Nomics my take is they might well have some advantages on mixed. And still be good on moderate ice in dagger and a high grip swing, even though the tools was designed for the overhanging world cup type stuff.

 

So is the high end Grivel tool (radical bend) that is very close to the Ergo in clearenece and House/Anderson used that tool 2 years ago on Alberta.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

where the hell did they test them last night? the canyons were closed and it snowed like a foot? Or did they test them indoors?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i'll have a bunch of detail photos to post once I get home mid week. Maybe someone else can or will sooner?

 

That was Friday nite Mike not last night :)

Come on, ya gotta keep up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Their wire gate is slick...single wire gate with a ball head lock up. I'll post those as well. $10+ each @ retail!

 

Check out the newest pictures at the alpineexposures web site.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought the Petzl single wire gate interesting. One thing I noticed is that it seemed like the opening was slightly smaller than most. I also notice that the bottom of the biner came out more than most. Both of these features are directly in response to the single wire gate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hope the trigrests are available as a separate component and work on old tools. If so they will be my next add-on after getting my griprest-modded Aztars back from Dane.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I want the new quarks. Bad.

 

(the link isn't working because you need to move the url.

 

 

[url=]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜'>http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜[/url]

Epic failure! Nah, just kidding.

 

http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜

 

[img:left]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/uploaded/iberger0n/2010126145644_ErgoColour.jpg[/img]

 

Edited by PeakDream

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All the picks are T rated now as well.

 

2010126145729_NomicColours.jpg

 

2010126145752_QuarkColours.jpg

 

Ergo head with the new spacer.

ajq.sized.jpg

 

Nomic and Ergos new "spike" end and the place you can get a tiny tie off through for umbilicals.

 

ajr.sized.jpg

 

 

And the Grivel tools...may be the Ergo isn't so radical after all.

 

ajw.sized.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×