Dane Posted January 15, 2010 Posted January 15, 2010 Dave actually turned me on the photo of Ueli Steck from last week.. Thanks Dave! Then I did a little snooping around with a few buddies and got this Remember you saw it first on Alpineexposures.com. OR show in SLC next week should be fun. "new Quark Ergos... ridiculously aggressive though" Similar first impression that a Nomic makes. I'm way stoked to see them in person and get them out on some ice! http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions Quote
powderhound Posted January 15, 2010 Posted January 15, 2010 super sick photo thanks for the stoke Dane, makes me wish I was on the weeping wall with ya instead of chilling in my cube...boo Quote
Rafael_H Posted January 15, 2010 Posted January 15, 2010 ... get them out on some ice! I thought you lived in WA... Awesome, but painful stoke, man. Quote
montypiton Posted January 15, 2010 Posted January 15, 2010 I note, in these photos, that Nick Bullock is using a pair of DMM Rebels -- I keep tryin' to tell you guys... Quote
Dane Posted January 15, 2010 Author Posted January 15, 2010 Ya cool Curt...not that they are bad tools but DMM also pays him a shite load of money to do so If "you" (not Curt 'cus I know he knows better) are judging tools by who chooses to climb on them you have missed a few things inbetween. Take a good look around Jon's web site (worth your time if you like alpine) and you'll see BD, Petzl and Grivel are well represented on some good climbing....and even a picture or two of Nick and his mate here and there on DMM. Quote
Dane Posted January 23, 2010 Author Posted January 23, 2010 Here is Pertz's new line up, sadly for us tool junkies, not available until Fall of 2010. Pretty radical new Ergo. But then we all thought the Nomic was radical when it was introduced. Costs run from some where around $330 on the Ergo $300 on the nomic and $250 on the new Quark. All the past tools are now discontinued Picks and parts will obviously be available for most for some time yet. Nothing past the old Nomic pick and the new hammer/adze is interchangable. Takes a new tool to get the new end piece. Nomic Ergo Nomic/Ero and Quark hammer (adze otion as well) Quote
Dane Posted January 23, 2010 Author Posted January 23, 2010 Couple additional bits of info on the new Petzl hammer and adze. The hammer weight is 58g The adze weight is 69g pick weights per pair is 65g The cold thistle hammer is 33g and a closer profile to the shaft offering a better balance on the tool. Same idea with our adze. CT adze weights less but I can't qoute the numbers right now. I had hoped that our pick cut and Petzl's would have been closer. No doubt you have two options now. Petzl's version is built to pound a lot of pins but you loose some of the amazing balance of the tools because of that. Our version is lighter certainly strong enough for the intended purpose but offering a lot better balance in use. Fun to see that our design work is exactly the same as Petzl on the interlock with the full weight of the hammer and adze slot supported inside the tool head. Quote
dennyt Posted January 23, 2010 Posted January 23, 2010 Is that clamp-on upper grip rest on the Ergo going to be available separately? I'd like to throw those on my Nomics... Quote
Dane Posted January 24, 2010 Author Posted January 24, 2010 Yes, they call it the "Trigrest" and it is listed as a seperate part. It will work on three now tools and Isuspectthe old ones as well. Quote
Rafael_H Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 Well, given now 3 tools the next best beta would be to find out the actually intended uses and reasons for the line-up. Clearly Quark and Nomic are upgrades, what about the Ergo, in intent, not official mumbo-jumbo? Really dry tooling on super steep terrain, or some mixed use possible by average folk? Because of the length of the upper shaft seems to be suited for rock more than ice. Also, with so few canges to the new Nomic and so many people already having them... I am in for a $50 custom end piece Again, thank you so much!!! Quote
Dane Posted January 24, 2010 Author Posted January 24, 2010 So few have climbed on the Ergo yet Rafeal. Even Ueli Steck didn't get his till last week and I was told everything out is still prototypes and even showed why. Really only cosmetic changes but all the tools at the show are marked "sample not for sale". Couple of Petzl guys were able to got out on them last night but I didn't get to talk with them. But from the guys like us using Nomics my take is they might well have some advantages on mixed. And still be good on moderate ice in dagger and a high grip swing, even though the tools was designed for the overhanging world cup type stuff. So is the high end Grivel tool (radical bend) that is very close to the Ergo in clearenece and House/Anderson used that tool 2 years ago on Alberta. Quote
layton Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 where the hell did they test them last night? the canyons were closed and it snowed like a foot? Or did they test them indoors? Quote
robpatterson5 Posted January 24, 2010 Posted January 24, 2010 any chance of a better photo of the Quark handel, wondering whats going on with it? Quote
Dane Posted January 24, 2010 Author Posted January 24, 2010 i'll have a bunch of detail photos to post once I get home mid week. Maybe someone else can or will sooner? That was Friday nite Mike not last night Come on, ya gotta keep up! Quote
robpatterson5 Posted January 25, 2010 Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks - I heard petzl has a wiregate now, any word on that? Quote
Dane Posted January 25, 2010 Author Posted January 25, 2010 Their wire gate is slick...single wire gate with a ball head lock up. I'll post those as well. $10+ each @ retail! Check out the newest pictures at the alpineexposures web site. Quote
ScaredSilly Posted January 25, 2010 Posted January 25, 2010 I thought the Petzl single wire gate interesting. One thing I noticed is that it seemed like the opening was slightly smaller than most. I also notice that the bottom of the biner came out more than most. Both of these features are directly in response to the single wire gate. Quote
EastCoastBastard Posted January 26, 2010 Posted January 26, 2010 So someone over at NEice had the brilliant idea of contacting Petzl and they sent him some big pictures of the new tools: new petzl tools it's a rar file and nice photos here: why won't that work? Quote
rocky_joe Posted January 26, 2010 Posted January 26, 2010 I want the new quarks. Bad. (the link isn't working because you need to move the url. [url=]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜[/url] Quote
Julian Posted January 26, 2010 Posted January 26, 2010 I hope the trigrests are available as a separate component and work on old tools. If so they will be my next add-on after getting my griprest-modded Aztars back from Dane. Quote
PeakDream Posted January 26, 2010 Posted January 26, 2010 (edited) I want the new quarks. Bad. (the link isn't working because you need to move the url. [url=]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜'>http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜[/url] Epic failure! Nah, just kidding. http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4887濜 [img:left]http://www.escaladequebec.com/Forum/uploaded/iberger0n/2010126145644_ErgoColour.jpg[/img] Edited January 26, 2010 by PeakDream Quote
Dane Posted January 28, 2010 Author Posted January 28, 2010 All the picks are T rated now as well. Ergo head with the new spacer. Nomic and Ergos new "spike" end and the place you can get a tiny tie off through for umbilicals. And the Grivel tools...may be the Ergo isn't so radical after all. Quote
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