Lower 48 ice destinations?

[yeoman]

As a recent transport from Alaska to California, I will be needing a serious ice fix this winter. Problem is, I'm not complete on lower 48 destinations.

I see a lot from Hyalite (sp?) and Cody on this board. My initial plan is to do a trip to Cody as the south fork looks amazing. Few questions....

 

1. Are there any other destinations I should be considering? I'm coming from the bay area and my partner is coming from Anchorage. He also is a badass on ice and has climbed hard in AK for many years. So we need a good selection of WI4 on up. Multi-pitch is a big bonus.

 

2. How difficult it Cody to get to? Can you day trip from Cody or do you need to camp?

 

3. Where can I get some info (I dislike the term beta) on SF Shoshone? All of the websites I've found look like projects started then abandoned which I take is a good sign because good climbers would rather climb than create and maintain websites.

 

I just found Winter Dance and will order a copy of that.

 

Thanks in advance

 

[John Frieh]

1. Cody has more multipitch than Hyalite. That said Hyalite is having an epic year this year. Many routes are in that dont normally form. As Cody is ~3 hours drive from Bozeman you could easily climb at both areas assuming you have a long weekend.

 

2. The south fork of the Shoshone (where the majority of the ice is) is ~1 hour from Cody. Camping options exist in the canyon... it can be cold and extremely difficult to dry equipment out this time of year in the south fork so most people hotel it in the town of Cody (closest town).

 

3. Once you get your Winter Dance book you are set. All the classics are in so you're good to go.

 

Send me a PM or email if you want Cody or Bozeman beta

[wayne]

Is the (cody) bunkhouse still operating? Easy to dry gear there

[Lukic]

Unfortunately they are not open and I got the impression that they weren't going to be opening again.

[John Frieh]

Is the (cody) bunkhouse still operating? Easy to dry gear there

 

No but a few of us are currently talking to another owner that is interested in catering to ice climbers. Stay tuned.

[montypiton]

Geez, if your partner's coming from Anchorage, and you're in the Bay Area, why not just meet in Canmore? Or would that be a case of "been there, done that"? Utah has Provo Canyon and Logan Canyon, both easily accessible from Salt Lake City. Colorado has Ouray (more than just the ice park), Rocky Mountain National Park, and the canyons around Boulder. Since ya gotta travel, I've also heard good things about New Hampshire and even upstate New York. The other night I had an old friend enthusiastically describing the ice-climbing in Delaware! (a new one for me...)

 

For Bozeman or Cody, allow plenty of time. You'll burn the better part of a weekend just getting to either place, and return, from the Bay Area or Anchorage. Both destinations really deserve their own trip. I wouldn't try to do both unless you have a month or so... driving between Bozeman & Cody can be iffy any time during ice season. (Not to diss Mr. Frieh, but I grew up not far from there, and with nieces & nephews at MSU, the family still deals with the roads...)

 

If you get desperate enough, there's ice in the Sierra, but after Valdez it will seem like visiting a local one-pitch sport crag after you've lived in Yosemite...

 

Hope you got a generous vacation package...

[genepires]

I have been to cody only twice, but I think that cody is the best ice climbing in the lower 48. Maybe I was lucky but we never saw anyone there. The lower avi hazard is a plus. The ambience is awesome and the climbs are long. This is not the norm for ice in the lower 48.

 

Banff will always be a special place but I think that the cody experience is better. Maybe it is the cowboy thing and friendly ranchers vs slightly more crowded banff scene and the fact everyone there climbs harder than me. Even grandma.

[Bronco]

Banff will always be a special place but I think that the cody experience is better. Maybe it is the cowboy thing and friendly ranchers vs slightly more crowded banff scene and the fact everyone there climbs harder than me. Even grandma.

 

[yeoman]

We'll probably have at least a week and will fly. Travel to Bozeman looks pretty straightforward, AK Air flies from Seattle direct to Bozeman. I think I can get to ice near Anchorage faster than I can ice in the Sierra. Seriously.

East coast is probably out. Just not gonna happen, this time around.

Canada hadn't really crossed the radar screen all that much. I suppose I should have titled the thread not Alaska ice climbing locations.

How many climbs are there like Polar Circus in the standard Canadian spots? Could you theoretically climb something like that nearly every day for a week?

 

Thanks for the info so far.

[kurthicks]

The east coast isn't in yet this year, it's been too warm. It should be good in another couple weeks, hopefully. it's great when it's in though. Highly recommended!

 

yes, you could climb lines similar to PC every day up in Canada, pending the avy forecast. PC is a long route, but there are tons of other things that are 300m or more. Get "Waterfall Ice" by Joe Josephson...

 

if you're looking to go cheaply, Cody or Hyalite are easier places to camp (even though the nights can be mighty cold). The RCMPs don't seem to like it when I bivy out on the Icefields Parkway.

[montypiton]

I agree, you probably CAN get to ice near Anchorage as fast as you can get to Sierra ice from the Bay Area. And even if it takes slightly longer, it would still be the better option...

 

And kurthicks is right - except you probably don't want to bivvy in any of those places unless you have a heated camper or plan on building an igloo or digging a cave... colder than the temps I had on either of my Denali climbs...

[rmick]

The low in Bozeman for Sun night is only supposed to be -15 to -20 with windchills to -40. Not to bad.