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Trip: Repulse - Original

 

Date: 9/12/2009

 

Trip Report:

All I have to say is that those Fireys were tough. In September, I was joined by Scott, Tim, and Gord on a Silent Lakes peak bagging extravaganza. Although all of us didn't summit all the peaks, our group managed to get up Fisher, Arriva, Little Johannesberg, and Repulse. I wasn't on Lil' J'berg (write it up Scott!), but I was on Repulse so I thought I would share some photos and a bit of text.

 

Here's the Beauty:

 

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Near as we could tell from the summit register, we were the second ascent of the original route, and the 8th party overall (4 parties in 2009 alone!):

 

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It was loose, intimidating, and most certainly not our modern definition of 4th class! We found some vintage Cassin pitons left by the Fireys, Scott had the fortune of pulling one out while on rappel (I kept it as a souvenir)- luckily it was backed up. I kicked another one loose and placed it using a rock to back up the next particularly suspect anchor. Fun!

 

 

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This one was pounded with a rock, it rang true:

 

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We also had some good times cowering, trying to not get hit by party inflicted rockfall- here are Scott and Tim enjoying a sheltered spot while Gord rappels:

 

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And the gang negotiating a particularly fine gully enroute to the the peak:

 

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The business end of the climb:

 

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The view from the start of the business end:

 

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And, the summit views from the apex of chossville:

 

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Needless to say, we wouldn't recommend the original route, but the route from the col between Repulse and Hoot Owl (I think?), looks like a promising early season way. This route is the one that most folks have used in recent years, and looks quite quick and direct from the highway. Also, Gordy Skoog reports a new, moderate route on the north rib of the peak- "Fun route, Good Rock, 5.6 III". I would like to hear how it went . . .. Details?

 

Anyway, for those that have driven by this peak often and wondered, you could be the 9th ascent!

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