marc_leclerc Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 Trip: A Cold Weekend in Smith Rock.... - Date: 11/8/2009 Trip Report: So Tamara, Trevor, Joleen and I went to Smith Rock for three days, leaving Friday - returning Monday. Overall the trip was great... here are some highlights: - Sunrise from Monkey face while my partners are all asleep in their tents still. - Hiking along the Crooked River with Tamara on the way to our first climbs in the park... - The deer at camp.. - The incredibly beautiful view all the time... - Ice cream sandwiches... - Sending 'Chain Reaction' in 5 tries... and the victory whip from the chains. - Pitch 2 of 'West Face Variation' on Monkey Face... - The finger locks in Moonshine Corner... -Sticking the deadpoint on 'Heinous Cling' and not having to climb all the way back up as one would after the fall from that spot... -Watching Tamara giggle all the way up '5 Gallon Buckets'... - Trevor and Joleen both styling 'Heinous Cling' on TR... - Joleen's epic lead on 'Karate Crack'... - Trevor's pasta cooking skills... - Tamara cranking on Zebra Seam... -Trevor's car only costing 50 bucks in gas for 16 hours driving.. total, not each. The 'not' highlights: -The guy spending 3 hours solo aiding Karate Crack... - Some other guy dropping a QD from the top of Karate Wall that smoked Tamara in the spine... -Tamara tearing a huge flapper at the end of Karate Crack... -The crowds... - Being super cold and windy on Mokey Face then bailing... -Little kids stepping on my rope as I attempt to send 'Chain Reaction... So basically, the good well outweighed the bad! Tamara Follows 'Karate Crack, 5.10a Gnarly Flapper Me sending Chain Reaction, 5.12c A guy from Kelowna attempting Chain Reaction, 5.12c Random stuff.. Note T-Shirt... we are about to freeze then bail as soon as the sun goes down... Monkey Face.. west face var Tamara leads Cinnamon Slab... 5.13b Heinous Cling.. which I didn't flash Fail Video Me not flashing Heinous Cling... Crowds... Joleen leads Karate Crack Me on Zebra Seam.. 5.11d, super sustained I found... Tamara cranks Zebra Seam, 5.11d Gear Notes: too much Approach Notes: drive, walk Quote
billcoe Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 Good on you for getting on it before the snow flys Pics Marc? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 12, 2009 Author Posted November 12, 2009 Good on you for getting on it before the snow flys Pics Marc? Thanks, pics added! Quote
el jefe Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 nice photos. sunday was pretty dreamy conditions there, rock cold and dry but t shirts in the sun. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 12, 2009 Author Posted November 12, 2009 nice photos. sunday was pretty dreamy conditions there, rock cold and dry but t shirts in the sun. were you there? whereabouts? Quote
TamaraSlade Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 [quote=marc_leclerc ] Tamara leads Cinnamon Slab... 5.13b .... HAHA 5.13!!! I f***ing wish! maybe in the next year or two! Quote
G-spotter Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 Next time you should go into the Crooked River Gorge Quote
el jefe Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 morning glory, dihedrals, then cocaine gully. i think we may have spoken to you guys below heinous cling before we headed up to cocaine. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 SLACKER! Me sending Chain Reaction, 5.12c Pretty sweet, marc! not something i can do... Quote
TamaraSlade Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 SLACKER! not slacking.... sleeping SOMEONE *cough* Marc *cough* decided to get up waaaayyyy to early, be an asshole, and take a picture of me being all cold and . Quote
shapp Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 Last time I was at smith this spring it was 12F at night! now that was cold Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 12, 2009 Author Posted November 12, 2009 Last time I was at smith this spring it was 12F at night! now that was cold things were frozen when we woke up... like ice. I don't know how cold that is in americn temperature though Quote
shapp Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 weather underground tells me the low last weekend was 27F on Sunday morning which is only -2.8 C Quote
RuMR Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 we were there too, mark...one of our mini-bots prolly stepped on your rope...feel free to correct them...not all othe thme were climbers... oh...and my boy ticked his project...6 tries over 3 days... Quote
el jefe Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 good to see you again rudy, and chris as well. and congrats to little guy on his send. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 12, 2009 Author Posted November 12, 2009 we were there too, mark...one of our mini-bots prolly stepped on your rope...feel free to correct them...not all othe thme were climbers... oh...and my boy ticked his project...6 tries over 3 days... really? was that you guys right around Chain reaction? If it was your kids they stepped on our ropes as they were running into the cave to the left to get out of a gust of wind.... Tamara shoo'd them off what project did your guy tick? Heinous Cling? Middle Age Vandals? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 12, 2009 Author Posted November 12, 2009 i think it was this guy... haha.. he asked me how hard Chain Reaction was and I said '5.9' as a joke, and he was like 'oh, well I can climb 5.10'.. it was pretty cute, at least I think it was him... Quote
RuMR Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 tell him, rudy. he sent Churning in the wake...he knows how hard Chain is ...if it was him, he was messing with you, Marc...it may have been his little brother (that pic you had was the older one a couple of years ago, he has longer hair now), the younger brother is topping out at 5.10 right now... Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 12, 2009 Author Posted November 12, 2009 he sent Churning in the wake...he knows how hard Chain is ...if it was him, he was messing with you...it may have been the little brother, he's topping out at 5.10... Fawk! Thats super sick! How old is he? Yeah it was the littler of the two that said he climbed 5.10.... has he sent Chain then too? Sure wouldnt be surprised! Quote
RuMR Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 no...he hasn't been on it...he's nervous about the last clip... Quote
RuMR Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 good to see you again rudy, and chris as well. and congrats to little guy on his send. yeah Jeff! Seeing you there brings back memories from waaaaay back! Chris was stoked to see you...and she was (can't believe this) stoked to climb too!! Quote
rocky_joe Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) that's me on Wedding Day in your picture of the crowds. wrong...i was belaying a friend on latin lover in this picture. that's lila on wedding day Edited November 12, 2009 by rocky_joe Quote
Water Posted November 12, 2009 Posted November 12, 2009 how bout that, that is lila there in the middle. cool beans Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 12, 2009 Author Posted November 12, 2009 (edited) no...he hasn't been on it...he's nervous about the last clip... Yeah, its not too much of an issue, even if you're shorter. I know some people clip from below the lip but that is really weird, I just went straight for the jug on the lip. I fell the first time cuz I hit the wrong part and the fall is totally safe, then once you stick the lip the clip is right by your face to clip...... and if he sent 'churning' he is totally strong enough to hit the lip no problem oh ya, and the throw could be bypassed, especially with small fingers, I checked i out. There was no point for me cuz I can just bump to the jug no problem with my +4 ape index basically I think one could hit the jug on the lip left handed, then heel-hook right and reach the right hand up to the thumb catch on the arete, then heel-hook left foot on the jug and bring the left hand up to a nubbin on the face. Then one could rock up on the left heel and cross the left hand up to the big jug on the arete.... all done Edited November 12, 2009 by marc_leclerc Quote
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