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Posted

Lots of gear placements if you look for them on YW. Not really even dicey. Onsiting Pipeline, now thats dicey. Blind strenuous placments around the corner as you layback up, wild! Anyone here ever gotten the onsite or redpoint of Pipeline? As it's beyond me.

Posted
Lots of gear placements if you look for them on YW. Not really even dicey. Onsiting Pipeline, now thats dicey. Blind strenuous placments around the corner as you layback up, wild! Anyone here ever gotten the onsite or redpoint of Pipeline? As it's beyond me.

 

I redpointed Pipeline in 2004. I got it before I sent freeforsome.

Posted
Redpoint or Pinkpoint?

 

Both. I first top roped the shit out of it.....then I top roped it with gear and tried to mock lead it....once all the gear was in Jaime and I pulled the rope and both pinkpointed it....I was not satisfied with that so kept working on it. I got shut down a couple of times but one afternoon a couple of weeks later I warmed up on the 10.c to the right of it....then hopped on Pipeline and sent ground up. I have since gone back and top roped it and thought "how the hell did I do this"....its really difficult.

Posted
Lots of gear placements if you look for them on YW. Not really even dicey. Onsiting Pipeline, now thats dicey. Blind strenuous placments around the corner as you layback up, wild! Anyone here ever gotten the onsite or redpoint of Pipeline? As it's beyond me.

 

I looked at it once. Does that count as an on sight?

Posted

It's a real stout lead, especially if you do the lower start on the right as opposed to joining the line higher up traversing onto it from the left. I've never seen or heard of anyone onsighting it though I've seen a couple of folks do it with one fall. Took me a half-dozen goes to get it and it was completely desperate / lucky that time.

Posted

I don't know, I feel that Pipeline is about a grade easier than Free-for-Some. I got Pipeline onsight but I only get FFS about half the time even after climbing it a ton... I guess its all about comfort on a particular terrain vs route.

Posted

On top rope (because I dont climb at that level currently) I am fairly certain I could walk up and send free for some......but not pipeline. Maybe because I have memorized free for some like the back of my hand. Love them both!

Posted
Did SE Corner yesterday with some good folks. How do you get to the dock? That marina you can see isn't private, eh?

 

Nope. Coming from Portland it is the exit before the Beacon parking lot. It is part of the State Park.

Posted
Does this mean there really are no pyramids on Mars, or in Alaska, for that matter? I've heard otherwise from the man himself.

Well, I was trying hard to be kind on the 24x7 Christian TV and reptilian Nephilim front, but now that you bring it up...

Posted
Did SE Corner yesterday with some good folks. How do you get to the dock? That marina you can see isn't private, eh?

 

Nope. Coming from Portland it is the exit before the Beacon parking lot. It is part of the State Park.

 

Thanks.

Posted

Arent and I did a complete boltess, pitonless accent of Young Warriors last night. We did not clip or use any bolts for anchors either.

 

This is the way this route should be climbed. It goes on gear the entire way. It is a little spicy in some parts. Its a tad run in a couple of parts but its all there.

 

Totally rad!

Posted
Arent and I did a complete boltess, pitonless accent of Young Warriors last night. We did not clip or use any bolts for anchors either.

 

This is the way this route should be climbed. It goes on gear the entire way. It is a little spicy in some parts. Its a tad run in a couple of parts but its all there.

 

Totally rad!

 

Cool, but I like how ol boy Ivan does it- only QDs.

 

Posted
Arent and I did a complete boltess, pitonless accent of Young Warriors last night. We did not clip or use any bolts for anchors either.

 

This is the way this route should be climbed. It goes on gear the entire way. It is a little spicy in some parts. Its a tad run in a couple of parts but its all there.

 

Totally rad!

 

Cool, but I like how ol boy Ivan does it- only QDs.

I'd like to see him lead the second pitch w only draws. No way, Jose...

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