JosephH Posted January 29, 2010 Posted January 29, 2010 The + sign is how thing were rated before the 'abcd' started. How sustained might be a way of looking at it, but mostly it was just used when folks weren't willing to bump something to the next grade up. As you and Bill, nothing on YW is sustained, but I disagree with Bill about how it feels doing it onsight without knowing any of the moves. I think all three cruxs 'feel' like scary 5.10 until you get them wired - but, I could just be lite. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted January 29, 2010 Posted January 29, 2010 Lite? as in the loafers? I'm not saying that because of those spandex pants you wear Joe...really.... Quote
JosephH Posted January 29, 2010 Posted January 29, 2010 Missed the glory days of spandex I did. Quote
JosephH Posted January 29, 2010 Posted January 29, 2010 The Charlet Moser 'Rocher Mixte' Piton That was pulled from the bottom of the high SE Corner ramp was mailed to the BRSP office care of me. Thanks, I really appreciate that. It was returned by someone with the initials E. M. - if anyone knows who E. M. is could you have them pm or email me at extcontact _@_ gmail.com. Thanks...! Quote
billcoe Posted January 29, 2010 Posted January 29, 2010 Looks like a poor mans knifeblade. I thought you said it was special? http://www.karstsports.com/petcharmos65.html Nice they sent it back to you. Quote
denalidave Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Here's the reason we won't be on the s side for the next 6 months... [video:youtube] Quote
JosephH Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Looks like a poor mans knifeblade. I thought you said it was special? They are actually fairly beefy, they come in a real long version, and that clipping eye is elongated and will take a couple of biners. Didn't realize they still sold them until I dug around some. Quote
JosephH Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Just got back from doing the Corner and rapping Dastardly to replace the Windsurfer slings. If anyone knows who's yellow/black cordalette that was I have it if they want it back. Oh, and somewhere in the dark I lost an orange HB nut with or without a draw - have no idea how, but probably p3 somewhere. Quote
ivan Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Here's the reason we won't be on the s side for the next 6 months... [video:youtube] pull! how can you NOT hate something having that much fun being alive? Quote
pink Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 I give it 5.8 to onsight for your average climber. i give it the Quote
pink Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 By Eldo or Gunks standards it would be more like: p1 - 5.7+ p2 - 5.8+ p3 - 5.8+ (one move) p4 - 5.10a or 5.7 p5 - 5.6 Onsight, not knowing the moves, it feels like 5.10 in a number of spots that also feel sketchy. Once you know all the moves it's more like a continuous 5.6 punctuated with the occasional 5.7-8 move and a one-move 5.10a boulder problem. Quote
JosephH Posted January 31, 2010 Posted January 31, 2010 Still looking for E.M. who sent the pulled pin back, the owner of the yellow/black Windsurfer cordalette, and a dropped orange HB alloy on the Corner p3. Thanks.... The Charlet Moser 'Rocher Mixte' Piton That was pulled from the bottom of the high SE Corner ramp was mailed to the BRSP office care of me. Thanks, I really appreciate that. It was returned by someone with the initials E. M. - if anyone knows who E. M. is could you have them pm or email me at extcontact _@_ gmail.com. Just got back from doing the Corner and rapping Dastardly to replace the Windsurfer slings. If anyone knows who's yellow/black cordalette that was I have it if they want it back. Oh, and somewhere in the dark I lost an orange HB nut with or without a draw - have no idea how, but probably p3 somewhere. Quote
ivan Posted January 31, 2010 Posted January 31, 2010 Still looking for E.M. hello, my name is enigo montoya - you killed my father - prepare to die Quote
JosephH Posted January 31, 2010 Posted January 31, 2010 Still looking for E.M. who sent the pulled pin back, the owner of the yellow/black Windsurfer cordalette, and a dropped orange HB alloy on the Corner p3. Thanks.... The Charlet Moser 'Rocher Mixte' Piton That was pulled from the bottom of the high SE Corner ramp was mailed to the BRSP office care of me. Thanks, I really appreciate that. It was returned by someone with the initials E. M. - if anyone knows who E. M. is could you have them pm or email me at extcontact _@_ gmail.com. Just got back from doing the Corner and rapping Dastardly to replace the Windsurfer slings. If anyone knows who's yellow/black cordalette that was I have it if they want it back. Oh, and somewhere in the dark I lost an orange HB nut with or without a draw - have no idea how, but probably p3 somewhere. Quote
ivan Posted January 31, 2010 Posted January 31, 2010 um...if the offender more or less anonymously sent the pin back, why on earth would he want to contact you now? what kind of condition did it come back in? you reset it back at the notch yet? side question: heard you were replacing bolts on young warriors (jim suuuure don't like that) - which ones and how'd they look upon extraction? never would have thought that any of them were crap, save the old homemade job on the smoke ledge and a couple of the smc thin hanger guys on the last pitch Quote
JosephH Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 Talked with Jim about it at length before I did it. Had he not hurt himself I would have done it with him. The bad mixed metal ones got replaced on p1 and p2. Climb it, nothing whatsoever has changed. The 'offender' sent the pin back with initials and I'd like to talk with them about it - simple as that. It is not back in the notch as yet. Quote
denalidave Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 um...if the offender more or less anonymously sent the pin back, why on earth would he want to contact you now? what kind of condition did it come back in? you reset it back at the notch yet? Maybe it was a botched ransom kidnapping... "Ve have ze pin. U follow z instructions carefully and u will get z pin back. However, don't try anyzing stupeed, like contacting z authoreteez. You do, and ze pin dies!!! A slow, agonizing death, vith loats of chalk! Stupeed Imperialist Baconion peegs." Quote
LostCamKenny Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 Talked with Jim about it at length before I did it. Had he not hurt himself I would have done it with him. The bad mixed metal ones got replaced on p1 and p2. Climb it, nothing whatsoever has changed. dave and i did climb those pitches this past thursday and everything seemed to be in the correct places - albeit a bit newer and perhaps a bit more stout looking... as long as the bolts that were replaced were in the same locations as the ones before then the route doesn't change that much... Quote
denalidave Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 I like the new bolts. The one below the butt-hole was beefy, but rusty. I would not want to fall there, even with the new bolts. Thanks for the work Joseph & Jeff. Quote
ivan Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 Talked with Jim about it at length before I did it. Had he not hurt himself I would have done it with him. The bad mixed metal ones got replaced on p1 and p2. Climb it, nothing whatsoever has changed. The 'offender' sent the pin back with initials and I'd like to talk with them about it - simple as that. It is not back in the notch as yet. wasn't annoyed meself, just trying to parse jim, conundrum that he is - he made it sound like he was opposed to it 100% i usually don't climb yw w/ a rope more than a time or 2 a season anyhow so it makes no difference to me - it's ya'lls trade route and if you thought it was jingus than kewl - i just don't understand why jim's so amped over it. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 i just don't understand why jim's so amped over it. jim doesn't want the route to change by removing and replacign bolts or any fixed gear because it would change the nature of the route. the bolt that denalidave is speaking of (the one below the butthole) was a directional bolt to begin with. yeah, you wouldn't want to fall there, but the only reason it was there was to keep the rope running correctly. the nature of the route is still intact with joe's bolt replacement. however, if one has a 70 meter rope, there is no commitment since there is that bolted rap anchor 20 feet to the right of the first belay. if it was up to me i'd vote to have that thing removed... but whatever, i guess. Quote
ivan Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 however, if one has a 70 meter rope, there is no commitment since there is that bolted rap anchor 20 feet to the right of the first belay. if it was up to me i'd vote to have that thing removed... but whatever, i guess. dude, it's cragging, there's no really supposed to be huge commitments at any rate, having the option to single rope rap off from the top of pithc 2 is good, b/c that keeps people from rapping off the tree on tree-ledge. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 however, if one has a 70 meter rope, there is no commitment since there is that bolted rap anchor 20 feet to the right of the first belay. if it was up to me i'd vote to have that thing removed... but whatever, i guess. dude, it's cragging, there's no really supposed to be huge commitments at any rate, having the option to single rope rap off from the top of pithc 2 is good, b/c that keeps people from rapping off the tree on tree-ledge. were you born grown up ivan or did you have to progress like the rest of us? it's for practice, dood... Quote
LostCamKenny Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 i usually don't climb yw w/ a rope more than a time or 2 a season anyhow so it makes no difference to me just so we're clear, how many times this past season ( ) did you solo ALL of young warriors? I know i roped up with you for at least one climb on it... Quote
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