billcoe Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 If you had to choose one climb to climb at Beacon that you could always climb. What would it be? Depends on the definition of "could". I wish I "could" always fire Dods and Blood Sweat and Smears. However, last year, (year b4?) I fell and hung for the first time in my life on Blownout, due to being old and weak, right at the top going direct....so I'd like to be able to always be able to climb Dods, cause then I could also always get up Blownout and Young Warriors in good style...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 One thing? That's tough. I wish FFA was the first pitch of YW and then it would be the best of both worlds. Would be tough to choose between FFA/Dods/Dastardly, Blownout, and YW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 complete stephenwulf the n side's ALWAYS open though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 Free for some for me. I used to have is dialed....all before kids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Free for some for me. I used to have is dialed....all before kids. Still have not even gotten on FFS, holding out for the onsite. Could be a loooong wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Theres nothing wrong with the first pitch of Young Warriors, its that second scabby pitch I personally don't like but the upper pitches more then make up for it. I think Windsurfer, Dods, Dastardly linkup is the best line on Beacon that I can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Theres nothing wrong with the first pitch of Young Warriors, its that second scabby pitch I personally don't like but the upper pitches more then make up for it. I find the first pitch of YW completely unmemorable and consider the second pitch as all but defining the lower half of route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I don't know, climbing on scary flakes is not MY favorite thing and clipping that bolt way off to the side before you get to the flakes is awkward. I like the second part of the second pitch where as soon as you get a jam in the crack above the bhole you're golden because those are some sweet jams up thru there. and then its time to break out the stoppers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I don't do a single jam on p2 and wouldn't be able to get up it if I had to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 (edited) thats wierd. How do you climb it without the crack? Ive never noticed an abundance of face holds thru that section and its a great little splitter that eats gear. Edited March 14, 2010 by stevetimetravlr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I think I've done at least 7-8 variations on the b-hole pitch, with & without jams. Sometimes left, sometimes right, sometimes up the middle. It goes many ways but one of my all time favorites there for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I undercling at the top of the BH with my left hand, move my feet up and just tag the horizontal halfway up with my right hand. I thing bring my left hand up next to my right, and my left foot out about two feet left of my hands and then just stand up. I then layback slightly off the upper crack with my right hand and tag the top with my left hand. the whole thing is basically a three move seqence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 I don't do a single jam Ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Pretty much, if it's humanly possible to avoid it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 ...move my feet up and just tag the horizontal halfway up with my right hand. ... Sounds like the word "tag" could be replaced with the word "jam" here. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share Posted March 14, 2010 How does one climb Blownout without jammimg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 How does one climb Blownout without jammimg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 Sounds like the word "tag" could be replaced with the word "jam" here. LOL Naw, the corner of the big horizontal half way up is a massive flat jug, no need to jam! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 How does one climb Blownout without jammimg? Stem, lieback, and the rare jam, like maybe three or four momentary ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 (edited) One time I didn't tape my hands to do Blownout, so part way up I started laybacking as it hurt so much. I was so "blownout" by the time I topped out I thought i was going to puke. Laybacking Blwonout=not fun, jamming Blownout=very very nice. Your favorite climb Joseph, Free for All, you jam when you climb it correct? what do you have against jamming? Did someone jam you in a corner as a child, whats up with that? If you don't jam, then we are going to have to start calling you a "Sport Climber". Edited March 14, 2010 by stevetimetravlr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 I would find Blownout brutally hard and undoable if I had to jam it. As it is, it's more of a romp not doing much in the way of jamming other than some slight and fairly transitory ones. I do very little jamming on FFA as well - it's definitely a lieback exercise and romp. I do no jams on the pitch of Dods above FFA to the tree and like two jams starting the crux to get into a lieback. In general, I find jamming painful, rote, and unaesthetic and don't care much for climbs that require more than a smattering of it. I do like watching Bill do Blackberry Jam, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 I'm not telling you to jam it, but I myself really enjoy firing in some locker finger or hand jams. Give me a splitter anyday I say! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 I'm not telling you to jam it, but I myself really enjoy firing in some locker finger or hand jams. Give me a splitter anyday I say! I love jamming/locking my fingers above the B-Hole on YW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 How does one climb Blownout without jammimg? Stem, lieback, and the rare jam, like maybe three or four momentary ones. blownout can be done with very few jams, i agree. it's really just a flared chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 Yeah. But why would you not want to jam. Jamming is the most secure way to climb IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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