letsroll Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Will is a good guy and a good climber. He is familar with the ozone.... I just try and keep up with you Kev Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Will is a good guy and a good climber. He is familar with the ozone.... I just try and keep up with you Kev Well.....you are almost to 1000 posts....keep it up.... Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Getting back to the discussion of Little Wing at Beacon. Its a good climb and has that one section, but I think Aries at the Town wall is stouter for a 5.8. Anyone second that notion? Its not hard by Index standards, but right off the start offwidth move or two that gets the blood pumping and is kind of physical if you're not warmed up. Then a second crux in the thin fingers crack up above, finger lockers with nothing for feet, so just yard thru it. Second pitch is flaring chimney with crack in back and then undercling at the top. Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Never been on Aries. Sound fun. what do you guys think of Jills thrill? 5.9 or 10.a? Quote
justinp Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I recall receiving a bit of a spanking and having few PBR pints before seconding Jills with Dave, but from what I recall it felt like 5.9 for Beacon Kev. Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 I have always thought the slabby crux just before hitting yosy ledge felt like 10.a to me. Alot of folks get shut down there....or at least hesitate. Quote
justinp Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Thats what I've heard, but I really struggled less there than I did farther down. Perhaps it was the liguid courage and the tr. Quote
denalidave Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I have always thought the slabby crux just before hitting yosy ledge felt like 10.a to me. Alot of folks get shut down there....or at least hesitate. I always thought that too, as do most people I've asked. However, last year I found a way to work a bit higher with the hands that make it 5.9, at least for me anyway. If I don't use that hold and go out way right for the insecure slabby move, it's feels very 10a. I love Jill's but if you fall at the crux, odds are good for rolling/breaking an ankle on the bulge below so it's never a gimme in my book. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 That move on Jills Thrill is no harder then the crux move on Aries. So that would make Jills Thrill 5.8. Just saying... Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 I have it wired so it does not matter any way....but it feels like a 10.a move to me. Does anyone remember the moss hold up and right? It is not there anymore....yet I still use the rock where the moss was..... Quote
denalidave Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I also really like that 5.10ish fingery thing off of Yos Ledge, just left of the rap anchors. What is that again? Crazy Horse? Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 I also really like that 5.10ish fingery thing off of Yos Ledge, just left of the rap anchors. What is that again? Crazy Horse? Yes....crazy horse. That is the second pitch. I think that is 5.9. The way Jim describes it is to lead is 10.a and to top rope it, it is 5.9. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Is Crazy Horse that thin fingers crack 15 feet to the left of Jills on the last pitch? Has anyone done the crack where you traverse out of the crack right on the second pitch of Blownout to another crack? I can't remember the name but it looks wild. Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 I cant remember the name of that thing on Blownout either but it goes at 11.d. Quote
denalidave Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I also really like that 5.10ish fingery thing off of Yos Ledge, just left of the rap anchors. What is that again? Crazy Horse? Yes....crazy horse. That is the second pitch. I think that is 5.9. The way Jim describes it is to lead is 10.a and to top rope it, it is 5.9. I agree with Jim, it is a bit heady on lead till you get past the crux, feels 10a to me. Quote
denalidave Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Is Crazy Horse that thin fingers crack 15 feet to the left of Jills on the last pitch? Has anyone done the crack where you traverse out of the crack right on the second pitch of Blownout to another crack? I can't remember the name but it looks wild. Seems like Fargo (Nate) got on that last year but maybe I'm thinking of a different line that comes off a different route. Quote
geoff Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Seems like yall need to get a room. Just sayin.... Quote
denalidave Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 Seems like yall need to get a room. Just sayin.... Then you would not be able to chime in. Just sayin, bout your sprayin... Quote
kevbone Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Seems like yall need to get a room. Just sayin.... Does that room come with beer? Quote
geoff Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I'm guessing there would be some PBR. But, can you really call that beer? Quote
eldiente Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 OK so maybe Beacon isn't the best crag on Earth. However it is one of the few places where I can row ashore from my home and go climbing. [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/Rt45Yr-4n5I/AAAAAAAABDU/UUqhBETYp_o/s640/IMG_1383.JPG[/img] Quote
Pete_H Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 That is cool. You ever done that at Squamish? Quote
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