Beacon

[astrov]

did 3 pitches of SE Corner; rapped off in the dark. Last car in the lot. Anyone want to climb Sunday?

 

 

7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam

 

7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy

 

7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read

 

7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev

 

7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14

 

7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails - did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home

 

perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses!

 

dave's vid:

[video:youtube]

 

7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home!

 

7th day at beacon this season

7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month

 

cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette...

 

8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too

 

the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour

 

9/5 - quick solo creep - tinywing (half little wing/half corner p1) to the corner to stoner ledge to young warriors - kenny n' ole'larry (thought he quit climbing?!) n' buddy dan at stoner ledge - 10th day at beacon this season.

9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?) while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive - horrified to find my good name impugned by certain unnamed low-lifes up on the little people ledge - seems they think i've been drinking their cached beer - despite my innocence, i nonetheless searched desperately to find said stranded beer so i could "protect" it better, but no dice

 

steve, yet again, climbing w/ random cuties, this one crushing on warriors and jills - gotta love an understanding wife!

Semms like we must be ships passing in the daylight. I must have bugged out after my second lap just before you showed up.

 

Ha, good thing I decided to clear the last of my own stashed beer. I think I know where the other guys is...

[kevbone]

9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?)

 

Arent

 

 

 

while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive

 

Fire ant

 

 

Good to see you Ivan. Arent and I climbed Little Wing / Fear of Flying in one pitch. Then the crux if Jill's / Crazy Horse in one pitch. Two pitches to grassy ledges makes it quick to get there.

 

Good to see you as well time traveler. Right on Sarah for onsighting Jill's first pitch all in one. What a great night.

 

On our way down we top roped Tooth Fairy (decay). Another Beacon classic.

[kevbone]

did 3 pitches of SE Corner; rapped off in the dark. Last car in the lot. Anyone want to climb Sunday?

 

That must have been you and your partner we passed on our way down. Sounds like a little adventure you had. Good times!

[stevetimetravlr]

Nice Job Kevbone sending Fear of Flying with nary a hesitation, and Arent flashing Crazy Horse, sweet! Sorry to cross ropes with you guys at the anchor, we were trying to get over on Bears before the twilight faded. Earlier we jumped on Crusing right in front of Ivan so he was relegated to the corner, didn't mean to ace ya dude.

[ivan]

 

7/13 - a lap on young warriors w/ geoff and a lap (sans cord) w/ geoff n' adam

 

7/15 - dod's jam w/ the phuzzy

 

7/17 - solo corner creep in the late evening before jetting off to pdx to pick up my peeps fresh off their wrong coast plane - read a few chapters and sucked down a liter of burgundy at the ledge until it was too dark to read

 

7/23 - 2 corner laps in a little more than an hour and done in time to get kids to the dentist, then a long walk by waterfalls (even introducing the bastardos to "5150" along the way, just for you, kev

 

7/26 - cruise'n to young warriors w/ nastia - bit of a scorcher after noon, specially for the devushka clad all in black - shiiiiiity roadwork delays on 14

 

7/27 - no one bit on the partner offer, so i spent a leisurely mornign w/ the little people - coffee n' bacon n' cats - went out to beacon at 3, uncertain what to do, packed for anything, and decided along the way, in honor of the olympics, to set a goal to climb as many solo laps as possible on the corner before getting back to the house for pizza n' wine w/ the wife in the evening - settled for 4 laps (bacon-flavored half dome day? BFHDD?) - could have done more i reckon, but ran into the company of Known Felons after lap 1 and that took a little bit of the wind out of my sails - did the pleasant last lap w/ denalidave, overladen w/ one beer, me ashamed to have left my gin n' juice in the rig for the celebratory drive home

 

perfect day, weather-wise, compared to yday - overcast, cool, variable winds - stoked to see a 3-some spending a night on ground zero, complete w/ double haul-bags n' ledge(s?) (didn't see room for the 3rd, what horrid price did he have to pay i wonder?) - thought to aid-solo ground zero i had, but they skunked me, and then that bastard timetravel'n'steve took my free 4 sum backup! a pox on all their houses!

 

dave's vid:

[video:youtube]

 

7/28 - warm n' sunny n' breezy - climbed w/ bob n' the phuzzy, both of whom did piss-poor jobs of Minding the Poisons - majestic snow-white n' toffee-brown owl winging about the arena of doom for a good half-hour - dod's to top-rope windsurfer - pumped stupid after that and the accumulation of yday - then free 4 all via the retard right start - snuff-porn wannabe free solo for 40 fucking feet, foot-stacking in constrictions n' lie-backing to get there, but a good gut-laugh, au-chevel style, at the pillar-top - jim showed late, grumpy to be tobacco-short as he tempts fate to quit - nose-trainers doing fine big-wall machinations, swinging from groudn-zero to flying swallow to practice their pendulums - dave n' crackman n' kyle flitting about - camas days clusterfucking the commute on back home!

 

7th day at beacon this season

7/31 - last of july - 8 days of beacon rock climbing this month

 

cruise'n'to right right gull n' then jills thrill w/ miker - bright, breezy n' cold - perfect! booty on jills - beers at the endless construction stops on the way back - how i long for a cigarette...

 

8/22 - 3 week beacon-hiatus - i'm in danger of losing my BRCA membership - been cavorting w/ the fam in colorado and at the oregon coast, coincidentally during the bitter depth of that 100+ pdx heatwave when the beach temps were damn near in the 40s each night - managed a dragontail clamber in thare too

 

the phuzzy made a public-transit trip to rendezvous w/ me in damned washoughal after a wicked reintroduction to work for me at the crack of dawn - climbed young warriors - a baker's half-dozen of wing enabled wave riding wacky-boys out beyond the island - elk herds grazing - good times! closed out the evening w/ little wing to the 1st pitch of right gull and then a sad attempt at tr'ing the off-width on wrong gull that got clubbed-on-the-head at just the right hour

 

9/5 - quick solo creep - tinywing (half little wing/half corner p1) to the corner to stoner ledge to young warriors - kenny n' ole'larry (thought he quit climbing?!) n' buddy dan at stoner ledge - 10th day at beacon this season.

 

9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?) while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive - horrified to find my good name impugned by certain unnamed low-lifes up on the little people ledge - seems they think i've been drinking their cached beer - despite my innocence, i nonetheless searched desperately to find said stranded beer so i could "protect" it better, but no dice

 

steve, yet again, climbing w/ random cuties, this one crushing on warriors and jills - gotta love an understanding wife!

9/7 - beacon hat-trick, 3 days in a row - 1 solo lap on the regular old corner, then one link-up i hadn't done before: tinywing => corner => hidden treats => corner => young-warriors => downclimb corner => uprising - 5 laps in 3 days

[denalidave]

Anyone find a pocket knife out there today?

[stevetimetravlr]

Dave, Not today, but last night Sara found it on the hike out, nice shiney one with a logo. So sorry dude, its on its way to Nepal.

Ivan, is Tinywing the same as Chickenwing? Cut right early off Little Wing? Sounds like you been getting some laps in.

[denalidave]

Dave, Not today, but last night Sara found it on the hike out, nice shiney one with a logo. So sorry dude, its on its way to Nepal.

Damn, I knew it fell out of my pocket somewhere there.

[ivan]

...is Tinywing the same as Chickenwing? Cut right early off Little Wing?

never heard that, but it's even better the pic of pink soloing the full little wing will forever remind i can't be half as hawt

[pink]

...is Tinywing the same as Chickenwing? Cut right early off Little Wing?

never heard that, but it's even better the pic of pink soloing the full little wing will forever remind i can't be half as hawt

 

true, but u solo YW...... way more respectable IMO.

[pink]

...is Tinywing the same as Chickenwing? Cut right early off Little Wing?

never heard that, but it's even better the pic of pink soloing the full little wing will forever remind i can't be half as hawt

 

true, but u solo YW...... way more respectable IMO.

 

even though u suck

[kevbone]

Soloing when you have a family is lame......imo

[stevetimetravlr]

Holy sheepshit, sounds like Adam W. and Justin P. are "In the House". Welcome back to Beacon boys!

[ivan]

 

even though u suck

i do suck - anybody who knows anything know that

 

and i just solo the last two easy pitches of warriors - the 2nd and 3rd pitches give me the heebie-jeebies w/o a rope...

[denalidave]

Dave, Not today, but last night Sara found it on the hike out, nice shiney one with a logo. So sorry dude, its on its way to Nepal.

You guys ever hear of the LOST & FOUND box at the ranger station.

[stevetimetravlr]

Never heard of it Dave. Is it full of gear people have bootied? The odds of finding the owner of a pocketknife laying out in the bushes off the trail seem astronomical, but just goes to show you never know. But then I didn't find it.

Got to climb with Justin P. yesterday, he is still firing hard. Had a couple fast movers nipping at our heels the whole way up YW, the Silverman brothers. Those guys must not drink decaf.

Also, watched Dennis the menace get the redpoint 2nd pitch YW, and a big welcome to Astrov(Ian) who was belaying him!

[Dennis H]

Thanks Steve. Like too finish the rest of it this week !!!!

Edited September 9, 2012 by Dennis H

[stevetimetravlr]

Get er done Dennis, after the 2nd pitch lead, everything else is cake.

[astrov]

[JosephH]

Get er done Dennis, after the 2nd pitch lead, everything else is cake.

True, if you skirt the p4 crux.

[kevbone]

Get er done Dennis, after the 2nd pitch lead, everything else is cake.

True, if you skirt the p4 crux.

 

Maybe that is why I love Young Warriors. It is actually an easy climb. Very accessible.

[JosephH]

True enough. Now if every climb had an easy B[ail] option at the crux climbing would be more lovable all the way around. Could we start with a way to skirt the crux on FFS? Talk about a climb in desperate need of some love.

[stevetimetravlr]

Pitch 4 is not cruxy if you have ever done any slab climbing. With a bolt right there and then a pin, cakewalk is right. Why would you go around it? It would be rated 5.8 in Leavenworth or the Valley, and probaly be 15 feet out instead of sewn up.

[billcoe]

Need an extra chair here:-)

 

 

[JosephH]

Pitch 4 is not cruxy if you have ever done any slab climbing. With a bolt right there and then a pin, cakewalk is right. Why would you go around it? It would be rated 5.8 in Leavenworth or the Valley, and probaly be 15 feet out instead of sewn up.

I believe the cakewalk being referred to is the alternate moves to the left, not the crux.

 

And I wouldn't necessarily disagree much with your characterization of it, but I suspect more folks head left at that point than not and don't do it. I'm guessing that's because, while the bolt is right there, given the amount of rope you have out at that point you're still going to pound-and-bounce hard if you blow standing up on the move.