Moonlight Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Just wanted to let folks know that Redhorn Gate (5.9 - Gear to 4") on Middle Earth at Ozone was cleaned the other day. Its definitely climbable but slightly dirty and could still use another brushing. Tree in middle of crack gone, moss scrubbed, dirt brushed off. Hope it can see some traffic to stay clean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Thanks! Â ps, you may already be aware, I learned late in life that a wire brush is NOT the thing to use to scrub as it slickens the rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 a wire brush is NOT the thing to use to scrub as it slickens the rock. Â A thousand years of erosion with five easy strokes - and there will be no more smearing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonlight Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Good to keep in mind - this was using a soft bristle brush to sweep the dirt off that had collected on ledges and in the crack from above. Wasn't really much lichen on this route - just a bush growing out of the crack that had taken over. What do you consider the preferred method for lichen removal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Thanks Moonlight. That is the very first climb that was climbed in Dec of 2004 by the cleaning crew that wrote the guide book. Thanks a bunch. Very cool climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 What do you consider the preferred method for lichen removal? Â Â Become friends with Jim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 thanks! i led helms deep a few weeks ago in hopes of TRing this one as well and was dismayed to see how filthy it had become. the start is a bit stout for 5.9, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 What do you consider the preferred method for lichen removal? Become friends with Jim. Aside from just being a great friend, he is also great at removing the oak since he claims that it has no effect on him... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Kev~ Evidently, you have a computer at the new job from which to profess yer spray... that's good! Â How's it goin there? Â Moonlight~ You should take yer cleaning prowess to beacon and help with the "abandoned routes" Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonlight Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 That's really cool to hear that it was one of the first climbs, it seems to be an awesome climb - we've been climbing several of the mid-grade trad routes out there this summer. I noticed the other day that someone had also done some work on Siddhartha too, its just still a bit dirty, but getting better. The routes just need some traffic to keep them clean. And I agree the start is definitely a stout 5.9, but a really fun sequence! Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Thanks! Â ps, you may already be aware, I learned late in life that a wire brush is NOT the thing to use to scrub as it slickens the rock. Â depends what type of rock. if anything it should roughen basalt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 depends what type of rock. if anything it should roughen basalt. It doesn't. Don't use wire brushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 hey moonlight, the other week i threw out a tick list of neglected ozone (mainly) trad routes. here are the good moderates from that list; go put some chalk on them! Â opdycke crack at 9plus. eight is enough at 8. (hardest 8 around, next to little wing) there y'ar at 9 (corner hand crack, a second pitch above jacob's ladder) tipp-topp at 9 (another second pitch, fingers in a corner) ripper at 9 (more fingers, on the old school wall) Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Crimper, I dont think the Opdycke crack is neglected. I have seen people climbing it frequently. And is stays clean all on its own due to the nature of the overhanging rock. Fun climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Crimper, I dont think the Opdycke crack is neglected. I have seen people climbing it frequently. And is stays clean all on its own due to the nature of the overhanging rock. Fun climb. i agree - and 8 is enough will likely just fall the hell apart if you get too rough cleaning on it as it's pretty chossy (and not hard at all for a chump like me, but maybe being tall gives me some unfair advantage? stemming n' grabbing juggly jugs i recall ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 i'm getting all warm and fuzzy to hear that those cracks are getting climbed. and yeah, i think eight is enough is easier if you are taller. but there's still that attention-grabbing finish no matter how tall you are... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I like the climb inbetween 8 is enough and the opdycke crack......Ivan.....we climbed that together. Talk about warm and fuzzy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonlight Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Did Tipp Topp on Saturday. Fun but needs some brush cut part way up the crack - maybe next time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 how did you approach tipp topp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonlight Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 There were three of us with only one rope - so one person led Rolling Thunder, the second followed, then we threw down the rope to the third person who climbed Jacob's Ladder. For the second pitch, we actually led Burrito Killa, and then top roped Tipp Topp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 please tell me you did there y'ar in the corner. Â and does rolling thunder not have a pretty hard crux for 10d? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 please tell me you did there y'ar in the corner. and does rolling thunder not have a pretty hard crux for 10d?  I think Kevin was the only person who thought Rolling Thunder was 10.d. Most of the rest of us think more on the lines of 11.b or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonlight Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 The person who led will be glad to to hear its closer to 11.b - he got a little frustrated with the crux. We didn't get to Y'ar - we ran out of daylight and didn't have headlamps , evil winter season! Sounds like you guys get out to Ozone quite a bit? We climbed about once a week all summer after work, now we're down to the occasional weekend. Definitly our fav local crag. I guess its back to garage bouldering for the winter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 uh, why can't we climb at ozone during the winter again? - seems like the only time i ever do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 you know, i've sent several harder-graded routes at ozone, but it took me at least 4 or 5 times to make the crux moves even on toprope on rolling thunder. that just shouldn't happen for me on a 10d sport climb. Â then again, a couple 10d sport climbs on broughton's hanging garden wall seem about that hard (which is to say, more like 11b!) which is what i know kevin had in mind when he picked 10d as the grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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