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[TR] Beasodden Rock - Dimwits in Da Deluge 10/17/2009


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Posted

so I'm trying to talk Rick H into going climbing at Beacon tomorrow and he tells me it takes 3 days at Beacon for it to dry out properly after a rain to do harder free routes, any truth to that or is he just being a slippery dog? Seems like one day would be sufficient...Dod's/Dastardly possibly in shape by tomorrow?

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Posted

it won't be nice, but you could get up it if you had too :) you gotta have some sun n' wind to dry it out after a buncha wet, and it's been raining today...if its soaked htough it makes the corner feel more satisfying

Posted (edited)

The corner was in great waterfall shape yesterday, though it was higher up on the easier ground that it was wettest... the lower pitches were relatively dry, with some patches of greasy right where you don't wont them, and it had just rained the day before.. Grassy ledges was muddy and Young Warriors was soaked pretty good, too. The first pitch of blownout looked nightmare-ishly greasy, which is almost worse than being wet, and I wouldn't even try to free the first pitch of dod's on a day like yesterday - even as easy as it is...

 

Point: One day for the corner if you want an adventure and two - three for harder stuff.

Edited by LostCamKenny
Posted
The first pitch of blownout looked nightmare-ishly greasy, which is almost worse than being wet, ...

 

Nice observation. Danny and Steve did the FA during a 2 day silver thaw ice storm in a bitterly cold January, wherein the even the road got closed.

Posted

Yeah, not just cold though Steve, it was frozen solid. Everything had ice on it. The ground, the rock, the road. They barely made it out to Beacon in their car without sliding off the road and dieing. If you ever run into either of those guys, ask them about this one or the FA of Amphetamine Grip in Smith. But do the Grip route first so you have an appreciation of the story.

 

They'd have welcomed Ivan right into the fold for sure LOL!

Posted

funny - the first trip i ever took to smiff i led amphetamine grip after sketchy todd, who said he knew the beta for super-slab, climbed the first 1/3 of it by accident, then freaked out and came back down - the last 40 feet of that climb rawks - totally proless scary ass climbing, but only 5.8!

 

bill, are those their 3 pins on the first pitch of blownout?

Posted
Who's headed out today?

i may bring my chilluns out for some x-treme trailwalking here in a few hours :)

hmmm....both kids leaking green snot and w/ 100+ degree fevers - can i consider a beacon trip therapuetic? :)

  • 1 year later...
Posted

13 months after my last soirre there, beaconben and i wandered up into the rare'auold reaches of the pipeline headwall - the rainstorm this time wasn't so scary as last time :)

 

i'd clambered up fresh squeeze a few weeks back and left a rope fixed - ben on the attack! (did i mention we need to pass the hate and buy old'boy a christian alarm clock? :) )

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not exactly a promising day - alternating bands of mist, piss, drip, 10 second sun-breaks, n' steady rain - didn't matter much really, the wall was so soping wet looking up was a dim idea, as it invariably came w/ a phat-smack to the glaz-ball

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ben at the helm - done this one a half-dozen times now so i'm always eager to talk someone else into doing the deed :)

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notch of jensen's ridge over bennie's shoulder

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the ensuing coupla hours gave me ample time to take in the sun-starved scenery

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10 seconds of valley vistas!

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where'd that white boy get to anyhow?

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time 2 clean

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lower outs are nice

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jensen's rimjob above ben's head - wanted to work on a long-neglected and perhaps ne'er attempted line climbers right of the rimjob (thinking "jensen's rectum" will be the thing :) ) - not enough time to take it on and beat a retreat, as it is The Land of No Anchors up there, so that was that for this day, on the cusp of winter...

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purty views from the top of the pipeline tower

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fixed 2 lines to the anchors up there w/ intention to come back in the next few weeks and do the new thing proper - rapping down above the arena of terror i saw this beauty which begged to be cast down w/ the sodommites - didn't take much more than farting on it :P

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hard rappell not to like...

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Posted

Ah the sweet sweet misery. I am ready to go back up there. I just need a quart of burboun to stay warm....oh crap, Mythbusters said that won't work. Maybe just a bunch of layers....of pole dancers.

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