Winter Mountaineering gear question

[Bronco]

Favorite winter gear:

 

http://reviews.patagonia.com/9248/40071/reviews.htm

[Jake_Gano]

If it's below zero you can shit-can the goretex for sure. Last winter was my first up here in AK and I learned a lot about keeping it together in the cold. A marmot driclime (or similar) is all the 'shell' you need. Best garmont I've ever purchased.

I like gortex for cutting the wind. It is better than anything else I have used but I have not used dryclime.

Jake, how do driclime and gortex compare for cutting wind? I really do not know.

 

Hey Bug,

Can't say I've put them side by side. I tend to think my hardshellf (a Precip) would cut the wind better. I bike in both pretty often. I ditched the big full featured gore-tex years ago.

Did you even use those frenys?

 

 

[LostCamKenny]

What ivan and tvash said...

[cbcbd]

Nothing against CC, but I'm wondering why you chose to post this question here and not on neclimbs (where many of the local NH guides post) or neice?

 

Anyway, the only note I'd like to discuss is the goggles. Do take some. Yes, they can freeze up, but there are ways of minimizing that which are better than just having your eyes and that sliver of skin exposed. Even a slight twist of the head into the wind can provide some good air circulation in the goggles to keep them from completely freezing. There are many discussions on NE boards about the perfect setup which will not freeze up your goggles - some ideas are don't breathe up, breathe down, don't rest your goggles on your head, wear two neck gaiters... it goes on.

 

Your list of clothes looks fine. I never had any problem with any down in the Whites. It's just nicely cold and crisp.

 

Have a great time up there and don't you be heading out intentionally into 100mph gusts.

[GThomas]

I posted on this forum because I didn't know there was another forum focused on the North East. I tried joining summit post but couldn't sign up because I never received any activation emails. Luckily there were some knowledgeable people here that were able to help me out. I'll check out those other forums though, Thanks.

[DanO]

Anyway, the only note I'd like to discuss is the goggles. Do take some. Yes, they can freeze up, but there are ways of minimizing that which are better than just having your eyes and that sliver of skin exposed. Even a slight twist of the head into the wind can provide some good air circulation in the goggles to keep them from completely freezing. There are many discussions on NE boards about the perfect setup which will not freeze up your goggles - some ideas are don't breathe up, breathe down, don't rest your goggles on your head, wear two neck gaiters... it goes on.

 

I suggest you try both methods, my method of using two balaclavas

or a ski mask and a balaclava is not that common. What you do

is carefully put the two on so you have just a small eye slit

to see through with your eyes. In use you can adjust for wind

if you like, if one side of the face is getting all the wind you

can make that slit small on that eye and larger on the other eye

out of the wind. I personally find that I sweat so much that I am

effectively blind because of all of the frost on the inside of the

goggles when I use goggles.

 

If nothing else you will have a backup method if you or a party

member loses their goggles.

 

Dan

 

 

Edited October 14, 2009 by DanO

[genepires]

your list looks pretty good. Does the rei fleece pants have full side zips? Makes getting into and out easier. If it is difficult to put on, you won't ever use it so it is dead weight.

 

I don't know about the Talus coldavenger expedition balaclava, but coming back from denali, I wanted to get the OR gorilla one real bad. It has lots of coverage and a normal opening for the mouth. I can't breathe through those ski masks (lots of small holes) ones.

 

FOr your thermal tops, I have been liking the hooded types. MEC makes a good one for around $60. Nice to be able to throw the hood up real quick.

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302699173&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442627307&bmUID=1255574107504

 

You should drop your gear list by your guides way and get their opinion.

[GThomas]

your list looks pretty good. Does the rei fleece pants have full side zips? Makes getting into and out easier. If it is difficult to put on, you won't ever use it so it is dead weight.

 

No I couldnt find any side zip fleece pants, if you know of any please point me in that direction. thanks

[genepires]

http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/Mountain+Hardwear/idesc/WindStopper+Tech+Pant+-+Men%27s/Store/MG/item/340015/N/0

 

a windstopper fleece pant which look good. where have all the fleece pant manufacturer gone to? I bought one from feathered friends years ago but it looks like they don't do that anymore.

[tvashtarkatena]

Tvash, reading up on some of the REI Schoeller stuff they say things like windproof to 18 mph or 23 mph, have you had issues with that, or do you just throw the Patagonia shell pants on when it is much worse that that?

 

Edit: Also functionality be damned will they match my red shell jacket?

 

Assuming I'm going to keep moving: If it's going to be on the chillier side (below 20F), I wear the REI Acme schoeller pants with a silk wt underlayer. If it's getting down around 10F or below, I beef up that underlayer with something a bit thicker. If the wind kicks up, I throw on some superlight wind pants over everything. If there's a bit of weather, I use the Patagonia full zip pants.

 

In those conditions, I always wear Smartwool ski socks (knee length), and microfibre undershorts...also knee length.

 

[upzmtn]

Even better idea...keep going out anywhere in the hills outside of Conway until you know what works for you. Try to get to Tuckerman's and back in a day. Essentially no avy danger if you stay out of the basin and you'll learn way more there than from someone's list here. Be like everyone else and bring way too much the first time and dial it in from there. You'll learn a ton that way and you'll know what all this stuff weighs after that too.

 

With that said, the basics never change - wicking base layer, Marmot Windshirt (mandatory :-)then insulation to suit the temps (Patagucci Puffball Vest or Nano Puff? 200wt Fleece?), then a hard shell/soft shell, then a big-ass, put-a-nail-in-it down or synth parka. A little less overall for the legs. Figure out your system based on your metabolism and activity level. If you go out and get cold, you need more. Boots are a whole other discussion based on activity and length of stay up there. Don't forget the goggles up there. Priceless. Good shops back east: IME in Conway, The Mountaineer in Keene Valley, NY, OGE in Burlington... Anywhere but EMS:-)