Plaidman Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Jim O. and I noticed that in the last couple of weeks there are some flakes that are missing underneath the bulge just up from the belay for the 3rd pitch. At least 4 are missing there. The flakes have been loose for years, and need to be left there as the whole flakes system is like a puzzle. By removing the loose ones may degrade the system to the point that the necessary ledges to gain the horn at the top of the bulge will be more difficult to get to. If it is the seconds that are yarding on these flakes and pulling them off then leaders and locals need to instruct the uninitiated ones on what is what and show them how to pull down and not out on loose holds. Whatever is happening on this feature needs to stop if it is human caused. We also noticed that the block that is below the tree at the top of Cruising is missing on the Traverse on the Snag Ledge. Plaidman Quote
JosephH Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Jim O. and I noticed that in the last couple of weeks there are some flakes that are missing underneath the bulge just up from the belay for the 3rd pitch. At least 4 are missing there. There are lots of ways to break up the SE Corner pitches, could you be more specific? Are you talking about the 'V' notch at the top of the Jimney? We also noticed that the block that is below the tree at the top of Cruising is missing on the Traverse on the Snag Ledge. Are you talking about the series of large blocks that used to be part of the trail from p1 to p2? If so those got trundled early last season. Quote
Plaidman Posted September 25, 2009 Author Posted September 25, 2009 (edited) The bulge under the roof just off the belay on the 3rd pitch to get up on to the slab after Snag ledge. Right under where Ronda is standing in the picture. There is a new missing block just below the tree everyone uses to protect the Traverse on Snag Ledge. Edited September 25, 2009 by Plaidman Quote
JosephH Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Ah, there you go with regard to there being lots of ways to break it up as that's sure a novel place to belay from! She's about 35-40 feet above the anchor for belaying p2. And yes, unnecessarily removing the flakes on the wall below the move up onto the p2 slab is a really bad idea. Quote
justinp Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Why is Ronda belaying from under the roof? Quote
ivan Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Why is Ronda belaying from under the roof? i've used that belay before - if you're taking up a newb, it's nice to be right there as they pull the crux - it's a good belay spot too - an old bolt and good gear - that way you can show them the slab 'fore you take off - it makes sense too if you assume that you've stopped at the first snag ledge anchor Quote
JosephH Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Well, I suppose that's one way of looking at it. But then that's the beauty of climbing - everyone can do their own thing. I personally much prefer the dance up the middle of the slab than that crack system on the left. Quote
Plaidman Posted September 25, 2009 Author Posted September 25, 2009 Why is Ronda belaying from under the roof? Because that was her first time she had been up and I wanted to assist her and make sure she could make the move over the crux. Communication being difficult from Tree Ledge if there is a problem. Quote
ivan Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Well, I suppose that's one way of looking at it. But then that's the beauty of climbing - everyone can do their own thing. I personally much prefer the dance up the middle of the slab than that crack system on the left. ? the belay under the roof is before the little ladder up the slab - i think i've only used it twice, each time w/ a complete newb - plaid's right, a newb can get awful freaked at the crux, espeically since they can't see/hear you - i too prefer the slab finsih too, especially when soloing Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 i too prefer the slab finsih too, especially when soloing The corner is where its at! Seems like the whole rock is falling apart... ivan, bring some epoxy with you to the ledge and we'll go on a gluing spree Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Right under where Ronda is standing in the picture. btw, scott, that's a great pic i almost didnt recognize it from that angle! Quote
Plaidman Posted September 25, 2009 Author Posted September 25, 2009 (edited) Right under where Ronda is standing in the picture. btw, scott, that's a great pic i almost didnt recognize it from that angle! Here is some more: Edited September 25, 2009 by Plaidman Quote
JosephH Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Well, I suppose that's one way of looking at it. But then that's the beauty of climbing - everyone can do their own thing. I personally much prefer the dance up the middle of the slab than that crack system on the left. ? the belay under the roof is before the little ladder up the slab - i think i've only used it twice, each time w/ a complete newb - plaid's right, a newb can get awful freaked at the crux, espeically since they can't see/hear you - i too prefer the slab finsih too, especially when soloing I'm confused, there's no need to ever go left anywhere near where she's at in the pcture. But Bill did remind me that people used to do the high traverse to the slab and sometimes belay where she is. Quote
justinp Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Here is some more: someone should chop down those god dam power lines:argue: Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 someone should chop down those god dam power lines:argue: Yeah... they are a hazard to the falcons - better get rid of em before they have some terrible effect on the chicks! Quote
kevbone Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 The best way off the start of the second pitch (slab)...is to go up and right. There is an old bolt with no hanger on it...this is like 5.8 or something, but it is bomber rock. Then it connects up to the slab cracks. Screw going up and left through the loose blocks. IMO Quote
billcoe Posted October 2, 2009 Posted October 2, 2009 That's called an ass...great view of his ass Kenny.....nice Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 3, 2009 Posted October 3, 2009 I posted on ST that the main flake hold on the SE corner 2nd pitch is loose and Joseph H mentioned that I should post it here. A week ago I pulled on it, and it shifted dramatically in my hand, scary. I did the climb again yesterday and it did not move at all. So not sure what is going on with it, but heads up if you are soloing. Quote
denalidave Posted October 3, 2009 Posted October 3, 2009 I posted on ST that the main flake hold on the SE corner 2nd pitch is loose and Joseph H mentioned that I should post it here. A week ago I pulled on it, and it shifted dramatically in my hand, scary. I did the climb again yesterday and it did not move at all. So not sure what is going on with it, but heads up if you are soloing. Thanks, I was thinking of heading over today if it is dry enough. Any one else know more about this? Quote
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