[TR] Mount Baker - Easton Glacier 8/1/2009

[Josh Lewis]

any rope would be fine for working on the mechanics of crevasse rescue.

 

pulley's = extra weight and weight that unusable for other things...sure if you're hauling something every trip you go out they'd be nice...but biners work fine in emergency situations (ie crevasse fall)...and are all you need for working the mechanics...they are also multipurpose...you'll find it's all about efficiency without compromising safety...hell...on route i dont even carry foot prussiks anymore...just an extra double length runner...which can be used for a multitude of other things when not needed...if i gotta lug my ass outa a hole...tie in on a klemheist and use it as a single stirrup to stand in

 

where do you live Josh?

 

edit: as important as crevasse rescue is know and practice Josh...more importantly to know and practice is how to avoid ending up in one

 

I learned some basics on Mount Baker about probing and watching out of where they are. The Pully device is very light wieght, perhaps a few ounces.

[Josh Lewis]

An enthralling read...the duck trapped crampons/"that's ghetto" was my fav part.

 

Please post another TR on you Rainier attempts.

 

Two extra trip reports coming right up. I gotta warn you, the first one was not as much of a success, I almost lost my passion for climbing.

[tazz]

Tazz, would you be willing to join if someone else or a few other people were willing to teach crevasse rescue?

 

 

whoooooaaaaa there Nelly!! Don't take what i said and run with it. look at it again!

 

I just think if they are going to encourage, pat your back, and give you kudos for being silly and dangerous,OR give you internet tips, then they should step up and support your lack of knowledge by helping you gain that knowledge. No better place than rope up!

 

Rope up is a fun social that is NOT for training JOSH or anyone for that matter. So don't take advantage Josh!!! you tend to do that!!

 

 

Edited September 9, 2009 by tazz

[Josh Lewis]

Some think my trip report is too long... in the future should I keep it shorter? I figured because some really wanted to hear this one I kept it long. Obviously most trip reports in the future won't be this long, but this felt like a long time in person.

[olyclimber]

no its fine. its just longer than most.

[timmy_t]

I was thinking about making a shortened version... would you like me to?

 

No, please. No more of this.

[Josh Lewis]

I was thinking about making a shortened version... would you like me to?

 

No, please. No more of this.

 

Sounds good... then I'll go based on my own style but perhaps try to correct it more, others were saying it was too long. Thanks for the encouragment. Cheers Josh Lewis.

[Pete_H]

I thought it was a great TR, Josh. Keep up the good work, and keep learning from your experiences.

[jshamster]

I agree. Not too long, but the spelling/grammar could use a little work to make for an easier read.

Glad you didn't let THE MAN bring you down, and yer still gettin' after it.

 

Jimbo

[YocumRidge]

Josh:

 

Did you know there is scientific evidence that diarrhea is hereditary?

 

I believe that!! My brother gets it with certain foods. So there's foods I have to be careful with. Last attempt on Rainier I was very careful of that which is why I never had to go.

 

problem is buckaroo, is the poor kid has no rope, not enough gear and the gear he has is not adequate (well most). the poor kid has to duct tape his ill fitting crampons to his boots!

 

MAYBE you all should invite him to rope up and teach him what he really needs. I just may show up for that. ;-)

 

It take a village to teach josh folks ;-)

 

I have no climbing rope... BUT have my friend Mark who has a climbing rope and he has broughten it over to practice. The problem is though is that he is focused on teaching me rock climbing. I only have one pully device so practicing the z pully is not quite as practicable as I would want it.

 

Tazz, would you be willing to join if someone else or a few other people were willing to teach crevasse rescue? Now I believe I had someone else willing, plus Mark might if there are other people which would be awesome!

 

I have a sample rope that is like 10 or so feet long and is good for practicing tye in's and such.

 

Josh - Do yourself a favor - take a formal crevasse rescue class and stop bothering people here with things like that. BTW, it is a good practice even for experienced climbers to take refresher CR every now and then!

[Josh Lewis]

Well, I may be joining the mountaineers soon...

[Pete_H]

Probably not a bad idea for you. Good luck!

[Pilchuck71]

Josh -

I know people flip the Mounties crap all the time and sometimes for good reason, but I think the orginization serves a purpose.

I began learning to climb on my own by reading everything I could get my hands on from R.R. Basic Rockcraft/ Advanced Rockcraft to Freedom 5th Edition and on and on. I also tried my hand at rope skills on a small local boulder rigging raps and setting stoppers as well as climbing on a fixed line with a prusik self belay etc, etc. I eventually met and started climbing with the partners I climb with to this day, but after a few years of my self teaching and learning what I could from my buddies I joined the Mountaineers and took the basic climbing class. I thought it was handy to have people who did not know me critique the systems I was using and to learn what I could from them. It also was helpful to gain some crevasse rescue skills from them and actually practice. As you may find, everyone has thier own way of doing things and definitley their own opinions on what the right and wrong ways of doing things are. I did not stay with Mounties past my graduation from the course as clubs aren't really my thing but I did meet some cool people who I still climb with to this day and I also gained some skills.

I say go for it Josh it can be a valuable and rewarding experience, if you make it so.

 

[YocumRidge]

Well, I may be joining the mountaineers soon...

 

A way to go Josh!

 

Also read and digest "Glacier Mountaineering: An Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue" - 3rd edition by Andy Tyson and Mike Clelland!

[marc_leclerc]

Good one Josh! I`m surprised I didn`t see this one earlier. You know, you`re not the only young guy here with an interesting Baker story: when I was 15, last year , I got abandoned on the summit of Baker by a responsible adult. His reason for leaving me was that he was feeling cold and had to go down, but I refused to descend becasue two good friends of mine were still trying to top out the upper north ridge in extreme winds and 15m visibility. I wanted to downclimb and get them out (as I knew the way out)As I was starting to downclimb over the edge of the summit rim I saw my buddy pop up over the lip of a steep section and I yelled to show him the best route up... man that was a gong show!

[rocketparrotlet]

Hey Josh,

 

Saw this thread was bumped up again.

 

Well, Josh is doing better (not perfect yet), but he has become somewhat more responsible from his failures. I am teaching him rock climbing in the hopes that it will be useful to him, which I believe it will. He recently turned around 100 feet from the summit of Sahale because it looked too sketchy, that seems like a responsible decision to me.

 

Anyway, I learned to climb from a Mountaineers course, I have mixed things to say about it, but I will not get into that now. I am teaching Josh almost everything I learned from that course, albeit in a different format, one which would have been more helpful to me.

 

Josh, I've got a book for you to read, it's called "Rock Climbing- Mastering Basic Skills" by Craig Luebben. I learned a lot from that book, and even though I already knew the skills, it really helped me to improve them and learn some new things.

 

Don't post your Rainier trip reports, especially not the first one. I'm not getting into that crap again.

 

-Mark