mountainmatt Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 I am not sure what makes something go from A6 to A6+, but I can say that I wouldn't want to fall on the belay. Climbing Mag Hot Flashes Quote
StevenSeagal Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 IMHO, at the level where you start constructing crap belays in order to up the difficulty, the grades become measured more in terms of layers of stupidity. Quote
rocky_joe Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 no such thing as A6. closed scale A5 = death of whole team. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 and there appears to be a bolt in the mix too...... Quote
mountainmatt Posted September 4, 2009 Author Posted September 4, 2009 and there appears to be a bolt in the mix too...... According to the article, "They placed no expansion bolts at the belays." . Quote
RuMR Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 i think its an eye rivet...no expansion bolts were placed according to the article... Quote
billcoe Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 and there appears to be a bolt in the mix too...... Looks to be 2. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 I wonder how much that would hold....funny the wall guys usually report holes not bolts. Anyway seems like a bunch of hype to me.... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 By the way the other day I was out walking around the base of a cliff. Ran into a young climber.....he was telling me about things he wanted to do. I suggested he free p1 of 10% . He asked what that was. I pointed to it and he looked, smiled and then said it looked like fun. More inpsiration there than some euro-hype. Quote
G-spotter Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 They're making fun of Beyer's A6 rating for Intifada is what it is. But how bout this 500m bigwall 14d route by the Brothers Pou, with the 14d pitch on pro that's A3 for the aid rating? http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://www.desnivel.com/object.php%3Fo%3D18917&ei=NkehSsfdA5nbjQecstykDg&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://www.desnivel.com/object.php%253Fo%253D18917%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26sa%3DG%26num%3D20 Quote
kevbone Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 Moderators....please change this to spray. Quote
kevbone Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 Beacause its spray in the first place and then we can discuss it properly. Quote
RuMR Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 why is it spray?? Pray tell, did someone dare mention a rating??!?!? The bastards! Quote
RuMR Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 By the way the other day I was out walking around the base of a cliff. Ran into a young climber.....he was telling me about things he wanted to do. I suggested he free p1 of 10% . He asked what that was. I pointed to it and he looked, smiled and then said it looked like fun. More inpsiration there than some euro-hype. lemme guess...he was probably around 10 years old... Quote
mountainmatt Posted September 4, 2009 Author Posted September 4, 2009 I love that the belay is made up mostly of hooks and screamers. IMHO, at the level where you start constructing crap belays in order to up the difficulty, the grades become measured more in terms of layers of stupidity. Exactly. Why even use a rope if its truly A6? Maybe we need a new grading system for stupidity. . Quote
Peter_Puget Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 By the way the other day I was out walking around the base of a cliff. Ran into a young climber.....he was telling me about things he wanted to do. I suggested he free p1 of 10% . He asked what that was. I pointed to it and he looked, smiled and then said it looked like fun. More inpsiration there than some euro-hype. lemme guess...he was probably around 10 years old... About that...have you seen him around? Quote
olyclimber Posted September 4, 2009 Posted September 4, 2009 isn't that the boy wunderkind who just sent Rattletale cleanly? Quote
RuMR Posted September 5, 2009 Posted September 5, 2009 By the way the other day I was out walking around the base of a cliff. Ran into a young climber.....he was telling me about things he wanted to do. I suggested he free p1 of 10% . He asked what that was. I pointed to it and he looked, smiled and then said it looked like fun. More inpsiration there than some euro-hype. lemme guess...he was probably around 10 years old... About that...have you seen him around? last i saw him, he was poring through the sky valley guidebook, looking at "cool proj's"... Quote
RuMR Posted September 5, 2009 Posted September 5, 2009 isn't that the boy wunderkind who just sent Rattletale cleanly? i don't think he's rumbled up there...he's busy cleaning up LTW routes... Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted September 5, 2009 Posted September 5, 2009 A7 is when you attach a timebomb to your belay. Quote
rocky_joe Posted September 5, 2009 Posted September 5, 2009 I love that the belay is made up mostly of hooks and screamers. IMHO, at the level where you start constructing crap belays in order to up the difficulty, the grades become measured more in terms of layers of stupidity. Exactly. Why even use a rope if its truly A6? Maybe we need a new grading system for stupidity. . Use a rope so you can get to the A4 pitches where it matters. Quote
pink Posted September 5, 2009 Posted September 5, 2009 time machine A5+VI FA 1984 Bob Shonerd... a suicide attempt? Quote
G-spotter Posted September 5, 2009 Posted September 5, 2009 Bob Shonerd soloed Reality Ridge too... And WFLT with no rope, just daisys. Quote
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