OlympicMtnBoy Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Trip: Mt. Monarch - East Ridge Date: 7/26/2009 Trip Report: Somewhere around a year ago Fred B. started asking me about Mt. Monarch. If you've spent much time with Fred, you know that he doesn't stop asking until he gets the answer he's looking for. Somewhere between selective hearing and years of practice, Fred get's what he wants eventually. I'd already had a busy summer, but I figured I could squeeze in this new adventure. I packed up my Chinook in Yosemite and headed back to WA to catch a board meeting for work and then had one evening to pack and to meet the other six assorted ruffians Fred had assembled (Jim, Doug, Bill, Rob, Jessie, and Theron). Chaos ensued in Fred's driveway as we tried to work out stoves, tents, food, and climbing gear the night before we were supposed to drive north, but somehow most of it made it in our various packs. The next morning found a ragged caravan on the 10-12 hour drive north to White Saddle Air Service at Bluff Lake (aka: the middle of nowhere). [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikO2eLkkI/AAAAAAAAEHI/FaukLMO6WY8/s400/IMG_3869.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikPteb2VI/AAAAAAAAEHM/y0x_bh6QHWc/s400/IMG_3871.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikWq-xhpI/AAAAAAAAEH8/SJC4ffxxD68/s400/IMG_3892.JPG[/img] Jim got us pulled out of line at the border and we all got interrogated, but otherwise the drive was uneventful and after a short hot and buggy night at the airfield we were all piled onto two helicopters at 6 AM and shortly thereafter deposited on the Horseshoe Glacier. Camp was erected and a few of us went up to the east ridge saddle that afternoon to scope the route and scout a high camp to make for a shorter day for Fred and anyone else who likes camping on high ridges. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikhOlhqzI/AAAAAAAAEI0/fZ7S82tz5Do/s400/IMG_3919.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikioM43vI/AAAAAAAAEJA/_FgNQkJQscU/s400/IMG_3921.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikjxnMa1I/AAAAAAAAEJI/c0t5dwEgPTc/s400/IMG_3923.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snikppv_A6I/AAAAAAAAEJs/_NyyNltO0S8/s400/IMG_3942.JPG[/img] Day 2 we had some stunning breakfast burritos with eggs, bacon, peppers, and onions (amazing what excess you get when 8 people all individually pack food AND hit the store with Fred on the way up), and then a hearty group of us set out at a slow pace for the ridge. On the ridge in the afternoon there was some question of snow conditions. Perhaps the weather was too good? Fred decided the ridge was a good high point with great views, Bill and I decided to give it a 3 AM start and see if the snow set up any. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikrO4BTWI/AAAAAAAAEJ0/jg6ajrahyY4/s400/IMG_3948.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snikty1uyEI/AAAAAAAAEKI/WEbiAs1j40s/s400/IMG_3959.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik1XHCowI/AAAAAAAAEK4/v8HBuWV0-o8/s400/IMG_3978.JPG[/img] The east ridge route varies greatly depending on conditions, but as the original 1936 ascent route on the mountain is steep but not too much so. Good thing because you also have to descend the route. Bill and I figured if the snow was just too bad and stuff was coming down in the wrong places we could always retreat. We made fairly quick time over the already explored 4th class rock step, dinked around with crampons a bit later on the ridge, and then finally scrambled up on top of the second rock step (3rd class). At sunrise we had crossed the first bergschrund on the hanging glacier and were heading up the 40-45 degree ice face. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik2jWfmzI/AAAAAAAAELA/p6iRYbcRzAs/s400/IMG_3981.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik6LlG9jI/AAAAAAAAELc/oUwMzFs_YmU/s400/IMG_3989.JPG[/img] The face was a strange mass of solidified margarita ice, but made for fairly solid footing and we kept an ice screw between us for a running belay. A few rock placements were found in the upper gully, but fairly easy travel continued right of the obvious scoured potions to the notch near the summit. We had one more move of "19th century climbing", as Bill put it, to surmount a large chockstone, and were soon on the fine firm summit snow ridge and then the summit proper (a little less than 5 hours from high camp). [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik7psitXI/AAAAAAAAELk/UHNWQgbO2Mg/s400/IMG_3991.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik9_gKWjI/AAAAAAAAELw/CPssp3YpWA4/s400/IMG_3998.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik8emNCmI/AAAAAAAAELo/3HXQiJZMMaQ/s400/IMG_3992.JPG[/img] After basking in the sun, chowing down on fresh bread, mozzarella, and prosciutto, and shouting to friends farther down the ridge, we began what was to be a fairly arduous descent. After 8 AM or so the north face of the summit block began dumping snow in the gully although we were fortunately able to stay clear on the side. We rigged three 30 meter rappels off horns and one piton which got us down out of the narrower gully and onto the safer face under easterly facing rock which had already melted out and wasn't spitting at us. Careful simul-downclimbing (the margarita ice didn't seem conducive the v-threads at that time) took us back to the lower angle hanging glacier (where most of our ascent steps had already melted away), and then back to the top of the rock step and safer ground. [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/Snik_QFmq6I/AAAAAAAAEL4/mdno--SHUj4/s400/IMG_4000.JPG[/img] A leisurely pace (and a few of my slips in the soft snow which were fortunately not exposed) brought us back to high camp around 1 PM for congratulations from Fred and Jim who then headed back down to base. A little (or a lot) warmer than desired, but still a great climb. Bill and I decided to spend another night up high and Theron kept us company watching the stars come out and a beautiful sunset from the sun warmed rocks. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilAzyGsQI/AAAAAAAAEME/_ae0N_VtYTc/s400/IMG_4004.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilCCruW6I/AAAAAAAAEMM/1qiCtRnGzr0/s400/IMG_4006.JPG[/img] The next day I scrambled an hour the other way on the ridge to the summit of the Queen with Doug, soloing on the way up and two short raps to get down (Doug only did one). That afternoon we all headed back to base to take advantage of the ~17 bottles worth of wine we had, and other nice luxuries we hadn't toted up the ridge. I slept well that night. [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilFw8pc7I/AAAAAAAAEMo/Mutl6kRdnXo/s400/IMG_4017.JPG[/img] On our final (5th) day up there Doug, Theron, and I scrambled to the summit of the Serf for some more great pictures and slightly better rock than the Queen, and then made it back down for final celebrations in camp. After some debate Jessie and Rob decided to head back up to the top of the last rock step to see if conditions cooled that night, and the rest of us went to bed. [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilKYFxUBI/AAAAAAAAENE/DCt8AakeOuM/s400/IMG_4028.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilM7rpFmI/AAAAAAAAENU/TZ2WrHQjL5Q/s400/IMG_4033.JPG[/img] Our early morning helicopter arrive (the other four were heading out the next day) and we piled all our gear in again and sped off. Jessie and Rob had found a low of 52 high on the ridge and were heading back down, just in time for us to buzz by them on the ridge. Soon we were back at the lake and then cruising back down at Doug speed towards Seattle. [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilUcV7SOI/AAAAAAAAEOI/h-pgR0tdWNU/s400/IMG_4053.JPG[/img] [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnilZtfjl6I/AAAAAAAAEOs/i_XSgCJ5-d0/s400/IMG_4072.JPG[/img] I hadn't planned on returning till Sunday night so the Friday night arrival gave me a nice couple of days to catch up before work again on Monday. Overall another great trip to the hills with some great old and new friends. I'm glad Bill and I got on the summit when we did as we were the only ones to do so, but the climb it self was another beautiful line on a beautiful mountain in a range I had never been in. The rest of the pictures are here: http://picasaweb.google.com/matthiesen/MtMonarch# Some of them came out really well, I think my tiny camera liked the extra bright light. Gear Notes: Light alpine rock rack with a few pins, long ice screws, 60m half rope, walking axe and a second tool. Approach Notes: Drive north in B.C. to Williams Lake, turn left towards Bella Coola and head to Tatla Lake, go south to White Saddle. Helicopter approaches are da bomb! Just watch where you pitch your tent if the weather is hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 But dude what about the Throne???!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 But dude what about the Throne???!! The Throne did NOT look appealing from our side. [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_0naUnf5VDGU/SnikkbtNPYI/AAAAAAAAEJM/s62iMTLmQcA/s400/IMG_3924.JPG[/img] Note the many scree covered ledges. Perhaps the other side has better rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Hells yeah Stewart! Where is the cool picture of the crevasse opening up in camp though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Beautiful route and mountain. How's the rock on Monarch? That north face looks impressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 nice outing, superb location. in many ways i like it better than the waddington range. btw, that was the pretender, not the serf, that you climbed later. the serf is way off to the east of the throne. cheers, don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa_D Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 awesome! I'm jealous. I have been stuck indoors for the past 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_L Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 "But dude what about the Throne???!! The Throne did NOT look appealing from our side." The other side of the Throne has a good route, the East ridge I believe. The rock is quite enjoyable on it. (easy 5th class) Good work on Monarch. I've been up there several times but Monarch has eluded me so far. I'll bet Bill had lots of stories to entertain you all with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted August 17, 2009 Share Posted August 17, 2009 Dude. Nice chopper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 Yeah the rock in the area was highly variable. That pillar high on the N. Face of Monarch looked solid and sweet, getting to the base of it looked much less fun (through long traversing chossy ledges or under the hanging glacier). We could also see a tiny bit of the other side of the Throne that did look better, but no one else seemed motivated to trek around to the other side. Maybe next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 btw, that was the pretender, not the serf, that you climbed later. the serf is way off to the east of the throne. cheers, don We based that on a wall map back at the chopper base as there was some confusion with the maps Fred was supposed to bring, I thought the Pretender was a tad west of Monarch's summit from the map, but I could well be wrong. BTW, there was the lower half (shaft and spike) of an old wooden ice axe stuck in the summit block of the pretender/serf. I forgot to take a picture and we left it there for posterity. Anyone know if there's a story behind it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Yeah I could see that travelling with Jim is going to get you cavity searched everytime you go across the border Very cool trip! You aren't having too bad of year climbing Stewart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 I'm glad Fred made it up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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