RuMR Posted August 13, 2009 Posted August 13, 2009 prolly both...looks like the cable pulled in standard alien failure mechanism with the head still holding... but one has to believe being fixed and wailed on probably contributed as well Quote
JosephH Posted August 13, 2009 Posted August 13, 2009 What do you suppose the odds are of a BD or Metolius breaking like that are no matter how you wailed on it... Quote
billcoe Posted August 13, 2009 Posted August 13, 2009 interestingly I got flack for sharing it on CC.com Glad to hear you're over that. I doubt you got flack from anyone who's opinion matters to you. I think some posts got deleted, can't figure out why I deleted my stuff from todays viewpoint.....hmmm. SIGH, LINK - LIKE WE NEED ANOTHER OZONE THREAD:-) Quote
RuMR Posted August 13, 2009 Posted August 13, 2009 What do you suppose the odds are of a BD or Metolius breaking like that are no matter how you wailed on it... pretty minimal... Quote
RuMR Posted August 13, 2009 Posted August 13, 2009 It did not appear to be a cam at all. you do not appear smart at all... Quote
Off_White Posted August 13, 2009 Posted August 13, 2009 So how would one get the cam head out? I thought you were a tool user! Cordless sawzall is the obvious solution. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 I was having a bad day until I read these latest posts... Thanks y'all! Someone pass the beernuts, please... and don't start round 3 until I get another Hamms! Quote
phillygoat Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 So how would one get the cam head out? I thought you were a tool user! Cordless sawzall is the obvious solution. Yeah- don't try to funk it out or you'll bring the whole wall down! Quote
JosephH Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 Just got my Sawzall batteries re-built and it is available on a loaner basis for worthy causes. Send Old Larry aiding up there or rapping in with an assist and he'll get it out for you. Quote
pigchampion Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 is an implied over-bolted crag considered a worthy cause with the stances you impose or is your plan to keep ozone attractive as you can so the hordes don't drive a little further towards the rock of the rising sun? Quote
JosephH Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 Good piggy! You hit the nail on the head. I now typically drive out to Beacon past somewhere between 6-18 cars at Ozone. I works quite well in that respect. If it weren't available they'd be burning gas driving to Smith so I guess you can say that Ozone was green-bolted. Quote
pigchampion Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 green-bolted. that is the funniest thing i have ever read on this site Quote
billcoe Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 green-bolted. that is the funniest thing i have ever read on this site pfft: my last 3 sex/sheep/midget jokes in spray were better..... Quote
jibby Posted August 14, 2009 Author Posted August 14, 2009 Just curious, but how many of you guys can actually climb this route? I'm glad somethin' is being done but making it a gear placement is kinda sketch, who really wants to die at Ozone. If it was Yosemite, yeah go sans bolts. But at a crag like Ozone, put in a bolt, keep the stars, and maybe it will see more traffic and stay clean in the future. food for thought... Quote
Off_White Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 Sorry Jibby, but actual experience with the route in question and the ability climb it hinders pontification. Quote
jibby Posted August 14, 2009 Author Posted August 14, 2009 I'm just sayin' to all the guys who are just spraying that if you are never going to climb it, it doesn't matter if there is a bolt put in. you will never get to the crack to place a sketch cam. It still is a little tricky to reach the roof. It was an alien, google a pic. of an old alien and it is the orange one. An' quit usin' dem der big words Quote
JosephH Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 Haven't gone over to look. Each of the past two falls when I've been in whatever constituted my "best shape" of the year I've been working on roofs at Beacon. Will have to make a point of stopping to check it out this year. Given I've lost my FA partner to Eldo recently I am looking for a new partner to tackle the ongoing project roofs; anyone intersted and completely confident with their [marginal and unknown] trad skills way off the deck in the .11+/.12- range should pm me. (P.S. Gotta dash and go climbing...) Quote
kevbone Posted August 14, 2009 Posted August 14, 2009 All you have to do is get in touch with Martin or Dustin the folks who established this route and ask them if they would mind if you added bolt. If they say yes....then all the nay sayers can f off. Quote
pigchampion Posted August 15, 2009 Posted August 15, 2009 Haven't gone over to look. Each of the past two falls when I've been in whatever constituted my "best shape" of the year I've been working on roofs at Beacon. Will have to make a point of stopping to check it out this year. Given I've lost my FA partner to Eldo recently I am looking for a new partner to tackle the ongoing project roofs; anyone intersted and completely confident with their [marginal and unknown] trad skills way off the deck in the .11+/.12- range should pm me. (P.S. Gotta dash and go climbing...) way off the deck is 1000ft plus, did beacon rock get bigger? it must be growing up. Quote
billcoe Posted August 15, 2009 Posted August 15, 2009 Just curious, but how many of you guys can actually climb this route? I'm glad somethin' is being done but making it a gear placement is kinda sketch, who really wants to die at Ozone. If it was Yosemite, yeah go sans bolts. But at a crag like Ozone, put in a bolt, keep the stars, and maybe it will see more traffic and stay clean in the future. food for thought... You must have missed my earlier posts. Not only did I answer this question before you asked it (I'm a fat old guy and don't have a chance in hell of pulling a roof like this), but I gave you VERBATIM text of the first ascent party saying that it takes awesome gear and I suggested you contact them on the bolt question. They're all still around, most likely you will see them at the zone, just ask them their opinions on it first before you do it because in my book, their views counts for much more than mine, or anyone's, in this instance. In either case I bet they'd all be super stoked that you guys like the route so much!! What I said earlier a few posts into this thread was this: ps, Dustins original email to me said this: "Angle of the Dangle (12c). Draws, Small TCUs/Ball Nuts. A unique and exciting project climb! From right side of cave, navigate your way up to large roof crack. Punch in bomb-proof gear!! Layout, jam, then crank past the cruxy lip. Keep your composure and finish on the bolted headwall (optional piton). Prep. M. Seidenschmid / Prep & FFA Kelton Rappleyea 9.25.07" Don't know what wound up in the book. Ask Dustin, Kelton and Martin about a bolt. Kelton sure seems like a great guy. PM me if you need an email address. I haven't changed my views. Later Dustin suggested I replace the word project with route or climb so I just did that now. I'm not anti-bolt but it's not for me to say either way: to approve or disapprove in either way. The tradition of process which we all share is to show respect to the community and touch base with the FA dudes to get approval or not. Probably try and get the remaining part of the stuck gear out first anyway hey? Good luck! Quote
d_sowerby Posted August 26, 2009 Posted August 26, 2009 ok, this thread shows how misinformation gets spread: the gear on Angle was a slider or ball-nut not an alien. It's easy to place a cam next to that placement, a few inches in from it. I placed a bomber 11/2 flexible friend there on the third ascent as did Shane on the second. It doesn't need a bolt. Anybody who trusted that POS is stupid - one look would have told you to back it up. ------------david Quote
wrangler Posted November 17, 2009 Posted November 17, 2009 Dave is absolutely correct, the piece that blew was an obvious POS. It's sad that it wasn't removed (or at least disabled) and someone had to take a dive off of it. The crack takes bomber gear near where the piece blew (check the guidebook photo for a visual). And while strenuous to place, the hand jams in the roof are secure and the piece you place doesn't block the hand jam you need to make the move to the lip. The experience of this climb would dramatically change by putting a bolt in the roof. Accessibility would go up (not a bad thing), but quality (and fear-factor) would go down. It doesn't need a bolt imho. -Shane Quote
el jefe Posted November 17, 2009 Posted November 17, 2009 the standard ozone climb has something like 10-12 bolts closely spaced with one piece of gear somewhere on the route. if said bolt were placed on the route in question, it would then be equipped entirely with bolts and thus would violate the ozone's one piece of pro per route ethic. this can't be permitted for what would people say about us then? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.