Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Calder

[TR] Little Swiss and The Ruth June 8 - 26th - 6/9/2009

Recommended Posts

Trip: Little Swiss and The Ruth June 8 - 26th -

 

Date: 6/9/2009

 

Trip Report:

On the 8th Brian and I met in Anchorage for our first climbing trip to the Alaska Range. His friend knew a girl who offered to drive us from Anchorage to Talkeetna. We had a lot of gear to cram in one of the most interesting vehicles I've ever tavelled in.

 

Alaska_118.JPG

 

We had to tie the door shut and she brought us ear plugs for the oil pressure alarm that rang all the way to Talkeetna! Thanks Tabitha for getting us there!

 

We sorted that night and were able to get in to the Pika the next morning.

 

Alaska_121.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alaska_125.JPG

 

We got right to it and climbed the Lost Marsupial (III 5.8)on the south face of The Throne. It was a fun route, but we didn't get to the true summit. The snow was cold in rock shoes so we settled for the false summit and skied back to camp. The whole thing went pretty quick and was pretty enjoyable.

The moonrise was sweet that morning.

 

 

Alaska_156.JPG

Approach to The Throne with Crown Jewel in the background.

Alaska_142.JPG

 

Back at camp with Lost marsupials behind Brian. The route goes up the low angle ridge of sorts to the left of the major gully splitting the south face.

Alaska_164.JPG

 

A few days later we skied over to the steep West face of the Throne to try to do something we hoped was new. We found an interesting looking line just to the right of the smaller of the two major rock scars on the face. We wound up bailing after a short first pitch. It went at about 5.10 or so, but the chimney part looked mighty tough. We got off the wall just ahead of the weather so that was good.

Alaska_178.JPG

 

The weather came in so the next day we climbed something behind the Munchkin that I have been told is called Little Arrapiles. We then tried to do the Munchkin via it's west ridge and turned around just below the summit.

Alaska_187.JPG

Alaska_189.JPG

Alaska_192.JPG

The Munchkin is the shorter? peak behind Brian. Those are the Trolls in the background.

 

 

 

Alaska_201.JPG

The next day brought more funky weather. We simuled the Middle Troll in just a few hours and summitted in a white out. Super fun, clean granite on the upper sections, lots of loose down low.

Alaska_207.JPG

Alaska_209.JPG

 

The next day was clear so we had a go at a differnt line on the West face of The Throne. The first pitch had an anchor on it but it looked so good we had to do it. It was splitter 5.10 hands that ended too soon. The rock abruptly changed as we tried to push the route higher. It got wet and thin and the cracks disappeared. We only had knifeblade seams to work with and gave it a few tries but again we bailed. I have some good pics and some funny video but can't figure out how to load them up here. Maybe in the next couple of days.

 

At the base

Alaska_218.JPG

 

The next day we got up very late and ran up the Plunger, an awesome little feature between The Throne and The trolls. We knew there was a 5.10 and 5.12 but that's all we really knew. I lead the first pitch up to the base of this amazing splitter, definitely the 12. It was .75 camalots almost the whole way. Brian has baby girl hands (compared to me anyways) and onsighted the thing! His hardest ever trad lead and trad onsight. The thumbstacks became to much for me about three quarters of the way up and I aided the next couple moves till I could get to a sweet finger crack near the top. Fun little summit.

 

Alaska_233.JPG

 

We skied back to camp and did margaritas and burritos with our new friends Jamie and Brendan. We got hammered and invented snow shovel/frisbee horsehoes, an incredibly fun game that got us through the many weather days to come. We didn't know it then, but this was to be the last good weather we'd see that stuck around for more than a few hours.

 

Brendan and Jamie with the Plunger in the background.

 

Alaska_253.JPG

 

Our transfer day came and went and we squeaked out the next morning with Jamie and Brendan headed back to Talkeetna. We couldn't land at the Mountain House so we headed to Talkeetna with the boys. At first I wasn't too happy, but it worked out well. Brian and I were able to catch two meals, get a shower and restock on much needed booze and cigies. We were back in a plane that afternoon and at the Mountain house in no time.

 

The Ruth!

Alaska_280.JPG

 

We drug our crap to the Stump camp, about 4 miles from the Mountain House. The next day we had a go at Goldfinger (IV 5.11) but got one pitch in before the weather came. We saw these bear tracks just under the tower about 150 yards from our camp.

 

Alaska_296.JPG

 

The weather stayed bad for a few days and we tried again, this time getting three pitches up before the snow started for reals. The third pitch was soaking, which sucked. The climbing was great though, man I want to do this route. A lot of awesome stemming and laybacking.

 

The base of the route.

Alaska_297.JPG

 

It rained and snowed for the next four or five days and we knew we were fucked.

 

Alaska_400.JPG

The sled haul back to the mountain house turned epic when the wet heavy snow filled in the track and we lost the wands. In a total white out we could only see about 20 yards so we threw down the tent. About two hours later it cleared and we discovered that we were right where we wanted to be, almost. We stayed the night and got up early. It was freezing. I bent my shovel blade in half trying to chop out our deadmen from the now rock hard snow. We had to chop the glopped up snow from the previoous night off our skins. The tent poles wouldn't collapse.

 

Alaska_416.JPG

We pulled those heavy ass sleds back to the Mountain house (I will NEVER do that again) and hung out with our friends Nick, Nate and Lauren while we waited for TAT. Thanks for the hospitality guys!

 

Overall it was an amazing trip! Many thanks to Danny from AAI. Dude, we were giddy when we went through the bag of food you left for us. Thanks again!

Also Thanks to Brendan for giving us a place to stay and a ride in Anchorage. Best host I've ever had. We appreciate it!

 

Our last day in A town we climbed at the good vibes wall along the seward. Brian asked me to put this up otherwise it wouldn't be here.

 

I have more pics but a lot of them wouldn't load up. ANyone looking for beta about these places feel free to contact me and I'll tell you what I know.

Alaska_459.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Knob Creek, Makers, Jose and Lagavulin. Good olives, nicotine and Gallo Salame.

 

Broke one North Face tent Pole, left two nuts and 4 pins. Bootyed one BD #12 nut.

 

Approach Notes:

TAT Baby!

Edited by Calder

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a great trip. Lost Marsupials is indeed a fun climb. We did some unnamed grovel on Little Arapiles; as I recall all the rock was nice but none of it was actually stuck together. Seems like you got a lot done despite the weather.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome! Great TR! :rawk:

 

Alaska_125.JPG

 

3 poop cans!? How long were you in there?

 

We pulled those heavy ass sleds back to the Mountain house (I will NEVER do that again) and hung out with our friends Nick, Nate and Lauren while waited for TAT.

 

:laf: :laf: :laf::mistat:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It was 17 days total and thats what they gave us so we didn't argue. We ended up sending the two small ones back on our transfer and just crevassing the rest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×