Jefferson Conditions

[psychobikere]

A few of us are planning on attempting the Jeff Park Glacier route this weekend for the first time, and I'm wondering if anyone has been up it recently. Any idea how far up 2243 is driveable? What the glacier and ridge are looking like? Any info is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[WillK]

Psychobikere:

I hiked up the West Rib from Pamelia Lake via the Milk Creek "snowfinger" last Monday May 25-26 and camped about 8k. Didn't go for the summit as I was solo. The Pinnacle appeared to be completely rimed over. Talked with a group that turned around at Red Saddle (via SW Ridge via Pamelia) due to the rime (and deciding to forego the Traverse). I'd love to hear about your trip...good luck. Maybe the Pinnacle will be doable for you...Check with the Detroit Ranger Station for the latest road conditions. I did not encounter snow until Pamelia Lake itself.

[rocky_joe]

is the pinnacle better (easier) with or without snow, assuming good snow.

[Mountain_Shots]

Good easy fun climbing w/o snow. (The pinnacle).

 

The summit was rime 9 days ago when I was pokin around Milk Creek. Big difference between the summit being snow or being rime.

[JoeMack]

Went up on Saturday (6/6) from Pamelia Lake. Went up next to the SW Ridge. Skied from around 9,700 ft, so I didn't summit. But here are some photos from my trip:

 

Above the clouds:

 

From my high point:

[astrov]

cool.

 

anybody know if the crevasses on the Jefferson Park glacier have opened up?

 

We hope to ski it this weekend.

Edited June 12, 2009 by astrov

[psychobikere]

we ended up bagging our trip on account of a bad forecast. looks like that was the wrooong call, judging from JoeMack's photos. I headed up to the sun in WA though and discovered the heavenly place that is the alpine lakes wilderness....

[111]

'tis a great place.

[tracy]

Can anyone comment on the current conditions of the traverse and/or the trail into the south lakes (Mud, etc)?

 

thanks!

 

 

 

Edited June 16, 2009 by tracy

[Water]

trail from pamelia up to hunts cove and then up the short 'climbers trail' up towards mud lake is pretty straight forward.

 

main points, when the trail from pamelia lake hits hunts creek, which is very flooded, just go straight across--then snow started up just short of hunts cove and was pretty continuous. Hunts lake is 85% melted out? Up above where the PCT is, is still all snow and the lakes up there are not melted at all. Camped there (shale or mudhole lake..). We were going to go up to scope the summit area for a future attempt but it was so foggy we didn't bother really. Looks like we could have had luck if we went up to 9k or so..might have been above the clouds but hard to tell that if you are in them.

 

someone posted on here who is doing a fullon oregon peaks vacation this week and are planning on doing jeffers on friday. i am hoping to hear some info from them about conditions higher up.

[Dillon]

I'm going up this weekend, I'll post a report next week.

[Matthew Holliman]

someone posted on here who is doing a fullon oregon peaks vacation this week and are planning on doing jeffers on friday. i am hoping to hear some info from them about conditions higher up.

 

I just climbed Jefferson on Thursday with Miguel Forjan, who may be the guy you're referring to (I think he posted on here looking for partners for some peaks). We roped up for the traverse; the snow was icy in a few patches (especially towards the north side of the pinnacle), and we both used (and were glad we brought) a second tool besides our ice axes. The summit pinnacle itself was snow-free (and is a pretty easy scramble IMO).

 

Another party had been up there not long before us (we saw glissade tracks/boot prints on the SW Ridge/Slopes, and they'd signed in the register a day or two before us), but we guessed they'd climbed the 5.6 side of the pinnacle, because we didn't see any sign of recent travel in the traverse.

[Water]

anyone have their 2cents to throw at a jeffers attempt this weekend?

 

with the 2-3 inches of snow from the past weekend and a week of sun, I'm wondering if it will be some hellish ice-glazed scree at the upper reaches, and an icy summit block. My expectations right now are that we'd get to the red saddle and probably want to turn around cause the traverse will not be neither dry or snowy enough. thoughts?

 

open to other recommendations in ~3 drive of pdx that offers a similar challenge

[ivan]

ice-spelunking on the elliot is a popular past time this time of year and the road's open now

[Water]

bump - anyone's feedback about snow levels/jefferson attempt this weekend? i know crumbly old things outside of a solid snow pack aren't too high on most people's list here.. but i'd take anyone else's 2cents

[letsroll]

http://www.timberlinelodge.com/conditions/

 

well I am sure you can figure what Jeff is like by looking at hood. Some new snow covering up the rocks in spots.

 

Good luck and be safe.

[rocky_joe]

wait for a few more storm cycles and the hill should be nice and solid.

 

and those crumbly choss piles are definitely on this guys list too. good luck, have fun and climb safe. (also post photos!!)

 

[Water]

Anyone have an opinion on the quickest way to the shale-lakes/south ridge area? Woodpecker hill TH to PCT and down to shale lakes? or Pamelia TH to Hunts Cove, up the 'climbers' trail by Hunts Lake to shale.

 

The Woodpecker route gives me 7.5miles by my map. Pam to hunts gives 6.8 -- but I've done the Pam to Hunts and theres a fair amount of overgrown--wondering if the PCT would be faster even if its a bit longer.

 

thanks

[JoeMack]

Anyone have an opinion on the quickest way to the shale-lakes/south ridge area?

 

I think it's a push either way. I don't mind the bushwhack too bad and I like the Pamelia Lake trail. I also usually go earlier in the season when crossing Milk Creek on the PCT is an issue, but that likely won't be a concern for you.

 

Have fun and post a TR when you get back, I'd love to see what the condition are.