[TR] Sherpa - Northeast Couloir to East Ridge 5/17/2009

[JasonG]

Trip: Sherpa - Northeast Couloir to East Ridge

 

Date: 5/17/2009

 

Trip Report:

I don't have much detail to add to MCash's excellent TR from a few years ago: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=468621

 

But . . . it is a great route that deserves more attention from those looking for a fun spring outing. You just might want to go a little later than we did this year (although in most years it would probably be perfect timing). A fair bit of snow and ice on the rock made for tedious/scary going in the heat. The gully was in fat shape though, making for a fast ascent/descent. Having both been to the top before, Tim and I stopped at the summit rap station due to a sketchy snow blob on the summit slab. What can I say, I'm a dad now.

 

Some Pics:

Argonaut on the walk in. Tim stayed in the basin and climbed its excellent gully route on Monday with another friend.

 

Stuart

 

A look at the route from close up. Obvious gully to left skyline.

 

Tim charging up the gully

 

On the summit ridge

 

Sherpa balanced rock gives props to Jens

 

Don't forget your spoon!

 

The post holing was epic

 

Gear Notes:

Half rope, a few pieces of rock gear, helmet, axe, crampons (didn't use).

 

Approach Notes:

Mountaineer Creek, stay left. Although we didn't do this variation, I hear it is fun to opt for the boulder field rather than staying on the valley floor- esp. in spring

 

[davidk]

Don't forget your spoon!

 

I think this beats the time Kevino had to use his nut tool as a utensil. Resume shoveling!

[Trent]

Jason: I'm jealous! I'll have to add this one to the list.

[LostCamKenny]

Don't forget your spoon!

 

I think this beats the time Kevino had to use his nut tool as a utensil. Resume shoveling!

 

A knifeblade, bugaboo, or longdong works well in a pinch, too!

[Jens]

Sweet pics guys!

 

Who is going to trundle that balanced rock with a few sticks of TNT?

I'd register at the U.W. seismology lab.

[rocky_joe]

no spoon=ultralight.

 

well done guys and nice photos to boot.

[alpineyeti]

Nice job guys! Which way did you come down? Descend route or traverse over to Sherpa-/Aug. Col? Recommendations?

[JasonG]

With the soft snow conditions we experienced, it was pretty easy to descend the gully after doing a couple of rappels and some down climbing on the ridge. If the south side of the ridge was melted out, and the gully was quite icy, it might be better to head over to the col. I guess it depends on conditions . . .

[alpineyeti]

Thanks Heinrich! Was much inspired by your TR, so decided to take a look for myself. Excelent climb, though more soft sketchy snow this weekend! We decended via the col. Hats off to you guys, thanks for the inspiration!