didn't something like this happen at squamish

[RuMR]

a couple of years ago?

 

TEST FAILURE

[TarHeelEMT]

Yikes. If you're going to "test-fall" trad placements, at least back them up with a bomber anchor to keep from hitting the deck.

[micah humphrey]

Not sure if this helps. Last summer, 2008, while bouldering in Squamish my friend sliced his shin open and we had to take him to the emergency room. While my friend was getting stitched up we decided to make small talk with the doctor who seemed very casual about this( shirt unbuttoned, wearing flip flops, etc.)and he dove into the plethora of stories he had while working in the ER. One of them was about a climber who had taken a nasty fall in the Smoke Bluffs. He had come in conscious and talking and two days later died from the swelling in his brain. Kind of put the whole 'climbing' thing in perspective. Of course after 8 stitches and a $500 medical bill we hadn't learned anything and were back out wrestling pebbles. Sheesh...

[eldiente]

Ouch! That hurts. I don't understand the value of testing pro by falling on it, especially on low angler terrain.

 

 

[Alpinfox]

I think it can have value in teaching new trad leaders to trust gear. Overcoming fear which might hold them back, yadda yadda. Psychology.

 

Of course it should only be done with the gear backed up with a solid anchor, or a secondary toprope on, and the fall should be clean/safe.

 

 

[RuMR]

i guess, if you were "testing" the gear, you weren't sure it would work...so why didn't the moron think about the outcome of the gear "failing the test"...ie, the big ledge to smack...

[hafilax]

The case in Squamish IIRC was a practice fall on Flying Circus. The person jumped, the first piece pulled but the next caught. The resulting fall flipped him over causing him to hit his head; no helmet.

 

Very sad.

[eldiente]

Sort of related. The other day I was out at Ozone climbing and saw a man/wife team getting racked up to lead this dirty gully system that was filled with loss chalkstone and brush. Looked 4th class or low 5th. I start talking to them and the man says that this is her first trad lead and that she is learning to place pro. Fair enough. Problem is that every third hold is breaking off and only "pro" she is getting to is girth hitched roots and tipped out cams between boulders. What a horrible way to learn. The poor belayer nearly got the chop from all the falling rock.

 

IMO aid climbing is a great way for a new leader to learn to trad climb. I think the thought of aid climbing a steep splitter cracks intimidates new leaders, but I think this is much safer venue to learn than some low angle crap free climb. Even just leading one pitch of easy aid gives a new climber a ton of experience, every pice is weighted and evaluated right on the spot. Sure a body weight placement isn't the same as a lead fall, however it gives a person a sense of what good pro is and isn't without having to do a "test" fall.

 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2009 by eldiente

[Alpinfox]

 

IMO aid climbing is a great way for a new leader to learn to trad climb.

 

I agree. Much better way to learn to trust gear.

[G-spotter]

Except if you are the new leader I saw zipper four small nuts out of Kangaroo Corner and stop upside down with head gently touching ground.

[olyclimber]

After reading that thread on RC.com, it makes me wonder why people complain about CC.com being such a spray-haven. Compared to them, I'd say we're civil and courteous.

[Alpinfox]

I'm just trying to fit in here...but I agree with all that has been said so far!

[ivan]

nah, save aid climbing till you realize you can't free climb for shit!

[Off_White]

I'm not calling you a moron Porter, but RC.com is not teh standard

[letsroll]

Learning to lead go find a good route at least 5.6. Do this a few times realizzze you are scared of your placements till you go aiding on top roped to find out that you may know your buisness or not. Then figure out it would have been nicer to just start aiding to learn the gear.

[olyclimber]

I'm not calling you a moron Porter, but RC.com is not teh standard

 

oh i know. i'm a moron and even i know that.

[Off_White]

I was quoting someone from one of those masterful responses on RC.com, I really liked the way the phrase meant exactly the opposite of what the words said.