Climbing all summer - suggestions wanted

[AR_Guy]

So, I'm kicking around the idea of blowing off work for the summer of 2010. I have a lot of things I might do with that time (another long hike, MTB trip, kayaking trip, etc), climbing being one of them. I want to get the heck out of Washington for a while.

 

Background:

- I'm an obsessive planner, which is why I'm looking this far ahead at this option.

- I'm currently only a (comfortable) 5.6 to 5.7 leader on gear (L-worth, Vantage standard), 5.8 to 5.9 sport, and could follow probably 5.9 and possibly low 10's reasonably well. I can jam only 5.7-ish, possibly 5.8-ish.

- I figure I could improve the above by at least a full grade, especially on gear, by spending the summer climbing.

- I'd like to keep the venues to the Western US (or Canada), say no further east than the Dakota's down to Texas.

- I'd have up to 5 months available, starting in March or April.

- Transportation isn't much of a problem (reliable car).

- I'd like to focus on gear more than sport. Multi-pitch more than single pitch. After a while building up the experience and skill, more alpine than cragging.

 

Given the above, what would folks suggest as a possible extended trip - Where to, how long to be there before moving on given the listed skill level, sequencing to get the best weather and conditions at each location?

 

 

[Winter]

Training at Lumpy Ridge and the into RMNP for the alpine.

 

Bugaboos.

 

Lover's Leap and the into the Sierras for the alpine.

 

Just a couple of quick ideas.

 

 

[DirtyHarry]

Tetons, Winds, Sawtooths, Sierras, Bugs, Canadian Rockies, etc. Too much shit to do, fuck kayaking and hiking.

[bobinc]

If I had that timing option, here's what I'd do:

 

1) spring skiing in eastern Sierras for conditioning/beauty

 

2) cragging at Red Rocks

 

3) Valley routes in starting late April then into May

 

4) depending on your cragging interest, think about Tetons, Devil's Tower, City of Rocks for early summer

 

5) mid-summer you have many options: Bugs, Tetons, Rockies, Cascades

 

6) later summer continue more of 5) and think about going back to Eastern Sierra for longer alpine routes

Edited March 3, 2009 by bobinc

[AR_Guy]

Thanks for the input.

 

 

[needtoclimb]

If I had the time off, I would do this road trip.

 

Head down to Smith Rocks for a week, pulling on the tuft and getting warmed up. Then drive on down to Joshua Tree. Spend several weeks climbing. There is everything you can want in that park. Leave there around May-June. Any later and it gets way too hot. Hit tahquitz/suicide area for a week. Tahquitz has easy routes (5.2 to 5.9) that are up to 9 pitches long. Great place to do lots of fun multi-pitch.

 

After that, head up to Yosemite Valley. Stay a monnth. You should be strong and comfortable by this point, and the valley is easy to find partners. Hike on your days off, or kyak, or just sit around and enjoy it.

 

After the valley you can hit the eastern side of the Sierra's. More multi-pitch/alpine routes than you can ever do in your life. When you are tired of the desert mountains, drive east to the Tetons. Climb there for a while. Again, a ton of stuff. Near the end of summer/early fall head over to City of Rocks Idaho. It is like a mini Joshua Tree, then head on home.

 

 

[curtveld]

- I'm currently only a (comfortable) 5.6 to 5.7 leader on gear (L-worth, Vantage standard), 5.8 to 5.9 sport, and could follow probably 5.9 and possibly low 10's reasonably well. I can jam only 5.7-ish, possibly 5.8-ish.

- I figure I could improve the above by at least a full grade, especially on gear, by spending the summer climbing.

Good preparation plan. Being solid on 5.9 trad will open up a LOT more aesthetic climbs, especially the longer ones.

 

I like Bobinc and NTC's suggested route - go south for spring then hit the mountains for summer. A great planning book is the Climbers Guide to North America - West Coast Rock Climbs (and/or the Rocky Mountain volume) by John Harlin. The presentation is pretty dated, but gives solid seasonal and camping info for a bunch of classic cragging areas. Looks like you can pick up a used copy pretty cheap on line.

[Crillz]

AR,

Here's where I went last summer/fall/winter - when I quit working for the man:

 

Lover's Leap - September

Yosemite - September (I'd go later or to Tuolomne if it's hot)

Red Rocks - October/ November

Index - Whenever I was home (and couldn't get across the border)

Leavenworth - Whenever I was home

Squamish - August/ September

Joshua Tree - First couple weeks of December

 

Also, it's easier if you are flexible on when/where you go. Basically, follow the temps and weather, and you'll be happier.

 

Also, after being to these other "western" spots, I still think WA granite kicks ass. For how you describe your skills, the routes and rock around home are just as good as anywhere else you'd go.

 

 

 

[clee03m]

Definately spend some time in Yosemite. Your crack climbing skills will be so much better, you'll amaze yourself. My partner calls it the "Yosemite magic".

[powderhound]

My circuit: I stay away from CA

 

city of Rocks: all summer

 

devils tower: can get hot in mid summer months

 

Indian creek: if you can climb cracks here you can climb them anywhere. gets to hot after may

 

ten Sleep WY:skip smith and come here, less crowds, better rock, and way better free camping. Good all year

 

Wind River range: great moderate alpine routes

 

Sawtooths: not going to find much under 5.9 here, better be dialed on 5.9 if you come.

 

Red Rocks: going to get way to hot....soon

 

PM if you want a specific camping/dirtbagging information on any of the above areas.

 

P.S.

SLC: bunch of areas down in Mormonville, lots of it is pretty good. Good through most of the summer.

 

CO: the boulder and grand junction area will provide more climbing than you could do in a summer