ivan Posted January 11, 2010 Author Posted January 11, 2010 returned to the scene of the crime after a year away fixed the 1st pitch of p-line first day of my winter break in a monsoon the craptacular panel's still there of course, but i went armed w/ a pin to slay the dragon this time - luckily i had a vintage b-rock 40 year old pin i'd booted from elsewhere in the arena of terror justin had the belaying honors this time reckon i wimped out - it was blow'n plenty hard n' cold and my feet were icecubes in my climbing shoes, whihc i figured from last time were plum necessary to manage the traverse anyhow, didn't feel in the end like losing my corneas cleaning out all the shee-it that's grown up in that crack since the wild n' heady days of the carter adminstration, nor in inflicting what will inevitably be a wierd follow for the second, especially if wants to jug the whole thing, seeing as how there's no fixed gear at the start of the traverse to lower off on and the other 2 heads are likely frail blah - anyhow, met up w/ the rascally dave back on the ground and the 3 of us had a frosty quick climb on the corner, made all the more fun in 2 jackets, gloves n' mountainteering boots it was justin's first time finishing on the upper se ridge proper [video:youtube] Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Holy sheep shit, that rope is orange! brrrrrrrrrr, much warmer at Club Sport yesterday then Beacon I am here to tell you. Quote
justinp Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Do we really want to go up there Ivan on the newly recycled pin Contemplating whaz the fawk to due next time Quote
Plaidman Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 I will go out with ya. I got see your insanity someday. Maybe I can learn sumthin. Plaidman Quote
LostCamKenny Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 I'm actually glad i had to work after hearing about this. Quote
JosephH Posted January 11, 2010 Posted January 11, 2010 Don't forget, that insanity goes free - but not in this weather... Quote
denalidave Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 I'm actually glad i had to work after hearing about this. It was quite a nice day, other than the stick still in my eye . Not as windy or cold as it usually is this time of year. Last call for Bacon, get it while it's cold. ... Quote
ivan Posted January 12, 2010 Author Posted January 12, 2010 where's yer pix ole'dave? shame i didn't get one of your dead dreary eye Quote
denalidave Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 where's yer pix ole'dave? shame i didn't get one of your dead dreary eye No still pics but I shot a bit of video. Nothing exciting, but when I get a chance, I will upload to Youtube for ya. Mostly of Crackman on cruising but I took some of you on the second pitch as well. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 Looks like a window of opportunity for all the Beaconrawk hounds on Thursday-Friday. Forecast of sunshine, so hopefully might be dry for a bit and might see you guys out there. After that, i think its closing up for the season. Then you guys will have to hit me up for some climbing out here on the east end of the Gorge. got the goods last week, 3 stellar pitches before the sun went down and the rain came again. As long as there is sun out east here, its pretty darn nice even if its cold as the rock soaks up the heat. Quote
denalidave Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 Anyone else want to get out Thursday? Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 (edited) I was going to see how the weather turns out Dave, but was thinking give it time to warm up and dry off a bit, so maybe 10 am or so? Not sure if Young Warriors or Dods or Jills would be in shape? Might be relegated to the SE corner. I will probably need a partner also, so was were you thinking Dave? Edited January 12, 2010 by stevetimetravlr Quote
LostCamKenny Posted January 12, 2010 Posted January 12, 2010 Friday? i can swing it friday... it would only get drier if it doesn't rain anymore. Quote
denalidave Posted January 13, 2010 Posted January 13, 2010 I was going to see how the weather turns out Dave, but was thinking give it time to warm up and dry off a bit, so maybe 10 am or so? Not sure if Young Warriors or Dods or Jills would be in shape? Might be relegated to the SE corner. I will probably need a partner also, so was were you thinking Dave? I'm not certain I can get away, but if I can, I could be there around 10. Up for whatever is dry. Let re-visit the idea tomorrow. Quote
denalidave Posted January 14, 2010 Posted January 14, 2010 Fricking rain..... Steve, I won't be out tomorrow but maybe we'll meet up on Friday? I may have met you once on the trail. You climb with Rick, right? Dave Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted January 15, 2010 Posted January 15, 2010 Hey Dave, Yep, climb with Rick often. Looks like I won't be at Beacon today but did get out yesterday out east cragging. Rock was still pretty wet as the sun didn 't stay out long but it was warm at least. Quote
ivan Posted July 29, 2010 Author Posted July 29, 2010 3rd time was not the charm today - kyle did pipeline and i launched up the silver crow only for the temps to suddenly plummet and the rain to begin - skerry above the pin, but this time was able to start into the traverse, only to reverse it and bail off towards the top of windsurfer as it came on to blow - next time? Quote
billcoe Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 WTF? Where you were: Where everyone else was: ps, you might take a hammer and duct tape & check the sharpness of that edge your rope is running over up there. Picture makes it look like it will core your rope if you pop the next piece up. Whew! 4th times a charm! Quote
ivan Posted July 29, 2010 Author Posted July 29, 2010 caught us all by suprise - larry n' steve got pissed on as well - sure brought the mozzies out in a vengeance afterwards too sharp edges aren't the issue on silver crow - a million pounds of rock shearing off in your face b/c you had the audacity to actually touch it is - a 10 foot by 10 foot section above the roof sounds like a dirty hippy bongo band from afar as you cross over it Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 The rain was quite a surprise. One minute nice and toasty, the next a downpour. Kind of messed up my plans and had to beat a retreat. We didn't look you up Ivan as my crew was running late as they had not eaten when I picked them up, yada yada yada...I was surprised we made it climbing at all after a tour of Cascade Locks restaurants, we went into 3 before deciding it was the right one. Shizzah. You are right about the mosquitos coming out after the rain, I got bit about 10 times on the walkout and I was running trying to stay away from them. Quote
billcoe Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 caught us all by suprise - larry n' steve got pissed on as well - sure brought the mozzies out in a vengeance afterwards too sharp edges aren't the issue on silver crow - a million pounds of rock shearing off in your face b/c you had the audacity to actually touch it is - a 10 foot by 10 foot section above the roof sounds like a dirty hippy bongo band from afar as you cross over it Well, at least it's large enough to adequately cover your grave. Ujahn had been talking up this finger crack route he'd been cleaning elsewhere. I went out one day and soloed climbed the route using his fixed line. I get up under this column that is the right side of his "fantastic Fingercrack". I look carefully and as the climbing was hard there and as I'm edging up directly under it notice that the damn thing is not touching the main wall on any of it's sides. It appears to be free hanging like an icecycle. It's just hanging free right over my head like the sword of Damoclese ready to chop my neck which I'd stuck right out there....holy crap, I can't reverse the moves without weighting the rope and the rope is going to put pressure on the upper part of this death block somewhere (that I can't even see from below) I don't know it my weight would dislodge the thing.....I had to weight it eventually. I felt so lucky that thing didn't fall off there as it would have been instant death. I come back and describe this to him, and we show up the next weekend with my pry bar. He goes up to lever and I was @ a 1/4 mile back ground spotting as he cranked this thing: which turned out to be @ 15' across and about that long, 2" out from the wall- @ 100' up. It moved remarkably easy and the roar and crash, despite being a long distance from my cush spot, still had me scrambling and moving at high speed to duck for cover behind the boulder I had been resting on. It was so loud! Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 It appears to be free hanging like an icecycle. :: :: :: Quote
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