Rainier

[Joy]

I'm very new to climbing...I've only been rock climbing once, and am going up Rainier in July. I was wondering if you all would have any advice as to how I should train for this?

I am currently running 5 miles 3x/wk and walking stairs with my pack 3x/wk...but I'm getting pretty bored with my the whole thing, and don't think I'm making very much progress.

I would really like to get out and climb! I'm getting into the routine of climbing Tiger Mountain every Saturday, but would like more suggestions.

My main goal is to build endurance. What is the best way to do this?

Any insight would be much appreciated! Thanks!

[Courtenay]

Hi Joy,

You're in luck, as we have such information posted on our web site at http://www.bodyresults.com/S2Rainier.htm. We also send out a free monthly newsletter full of good training tips -- send e-mail to trainer@bodyresults.com with the message "subscribe cc" and we'll get that to you every month.

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Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

[nolanr]

My advice is, do some training at altitude. I don't think Tiger Mountain really counts. Play around at Paradise, you can drive up to about 5,000'. You can get up to around the same altitude at Hurricane Ridge and can make a pretty easy ascent of Mt. Angeles, about 6500'. The Tatoosh Range (near Paradise) offers several peaks that are 6000'+. There's plenty of other good options, these happen to be easily accesible this time of year. The point is, if you've never climbed or exercised anywhere near 10,000' or more, Rainier is going to kick your butt and you will be hating life. Don't underestimate the altitude, and make sure you start getting acclimated well before the scheduled time of your climb. Enjoy.

[nolanr]

Sorry, I'm about to go off on a little rant. If you've never climbed before, why are you deciding to do Rainier all of a sudden? Plenty of people have done the same, but that doesn't make it a good idea. If you just want to climb the state's highest peak as a feather in your cap, that's one thing. But if you really want to learn to be a mountaineer, Rainier isn't the place to start doing that. Learn how to use an ice axe and kick steps on steep slopes on some of the lower elevation peaks first. You could also try one of the other volcanoes first, Baker and Glacier Peak are both below 11,000' and Adams is a shade over 12,000'. The difference of a few thousand feet may not seem like much, but it is. I'm sorry to sound negative, but if you're truly interested in becoming a climber, there is a natural progression to follow, and starting with Rainier isn't it. I'm done ranting now.

[jon]

Nolanr- She is a participant in the Climb for Clean Air. We have been contacted by the Lung Association hoping they could send their participants to this site so they could ask questions and get info. I hope everyone can be supportive of these people as I’m sure most of them have never climbed before. From what I understand they will be doing a bunch of training climbs building up to Rainier. Just remember we all started somewhere and these people are doing it for an excellent cause.

Joy- It sounds like you are taking the necessary first steps and it does get boring doing the whole running/hiking with a pack thing. If you don’t feel like you are making progress you should look at whether you are exercising at a hard enough intensity and whether you are giving your body enough rest. Sometimes backing off a little and letting your body recuperate will actually help you progress quicker or get over a hump. Mixing up your routine can help as well. Simple things like doing different trails on Tiger or going at different times in the day can remove any tedium. I often hit Tiger after work descending in the dark, or the opposite going up in the morning while it is getting light out. You also can try Mt. Si and Granite Mt., which are a little longer and more rewarding. Luckily, well depending on how you look at it, because of the lack of snowfall trails to higher areas will be open earlier. I’d take advantage of this and do your hikes and climbs higher than the top of Tiger, which is 3k.

For something like Rainier, there are some additional things you should do as well which goes along with what nolanr stated. One important thing is to find out how your body does at altitude because everyone is different. You could be in incredible shape but your body could just hate being at altitude. This was something that I found out when I first started climbing. I was 16, invincible, and in incredible shape from playing year round soccer and hiking and climbing a lot. I found out quickly though at high altitude I got really sick. Over the years I learned how to pace myself, eat better, rest more often, and pack lighter. Learning how quickly your body acclimatizes will help you determine how fast to go as well as let you know what it feels like to be working hard that high up. The best way to find this out is to hike up to Camp Muir, which is at 10,000 feet by Paradise. This time of year the slopes around Paradise can be a little treacherous in places so you should go with someone who has some climbing experience. Getting accustomed to hiking in the snow is a good idea as well because it takes more out of you are requires a little more attentiveness in case you slip.

I’d check out Courteney’s pages, she has some excellent stuff there. Good luck and hang in there!

-Jon

intensity@cascadeclimbers.com

 

[Courtenay]

We welcome all new climbers to the forum, whether they're just starting with rock climbing or shooting for something as lofty as Rainier.

While I completely understand NolanR's points about getting plenty of experience with climbing before doing a big challenge like Rainier, I also understand that sometimes people shoot for a lofty goal for plenty of other reasons besides wanting to get into climbing. For those who are doing it as part of the Climb for Clean Air, welcome, and feel free to ask whatever questions you have.

Keep in mind that it's very important to go with someone who knows technical safety and how to teach YOU about self-care; it's also important to know how your body reacts at high elevation. However, even if you get to try something fairly high like Hood, Baker or Adams before doing Rainier, climbing above 12,500' IS substantially different. Be prepared for that -- mentally and physically. Being in phenomenal shape is no guarantee that you'll succeed on Rainier -- everyone's body reacts differently, even from time to time on the mountain (i.e. you may have no trouble one year, and make it to the top; but a year later, in even better shape, you may not be able to get above 12,000 for whatever reason.)

Also keep in mind as you're training that the best preparation for climbing is ... climbing -- so get out there with your backpack, do some hikes that include substantial elevation gain (anyone tried Constance over on the Olympic peninsula?? Talk about a quad burner!! 3400' elevation gain in the first 2 miles!) and gradually increase the weight of your backpack and the distance you go.

Best of luck to you Joy, and keep us posted on your progress!

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Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

[mikeadam]

Hi,

If anyone from the "Climb for Clean Air" needs a training partner prior to your ascent I will be available 7 days a week to provide assistance.

Mike

Contact me at:

mikeadamson@alpinelite.com

[rbw1966]

The best way to train for a climb of Rainier is to do the following:

First, go get a bottle (or two) of MD 20/20 (any flavor will do) and drink it as quickly as possible.

Next, fill the largest pack you have with sand and put it on.

Then mount a stairmaster and slip a paper sack over your head. Now start to stepping. The MD will mimic the loss of balance one oftentimes experiences at altitude, the bag will show you what its like to be out of breath the entire time and the pack will help achieve muscle memory in that hunched and defeated posture so prevalent amongst the corporate detritus of the world.

If you'd rather see how awful you feel, you can substitude cigarrette smoking for the paper bag.

Hope this helps!

Rob

[rayborbon]

Rob\all,

This is very similar to my training regimen. Ask my good friends Seriously though it is sometimes. However I don't recommend it for all..

Hike a lot and very intensely (I stress intensity for workouts more than frequency) 2-3 times a week with heavier boots and get used to carrying larger than normal packs too. Make sure you do a couple of speed shots up to Muir just to gauge yourself.

Rob, we should train together. I bet we would get along well. You bring the booze I'll bring the stogies then off to find the chickies.

-Ray

[DPS]

Some advice for climbing Rainier:

Drink as much water as you can. Start tanking 2-3 days before hand. Drink a liter on the drive to Rainier, carry two liters and drink them on the approach, drink 2-4 more liters that night.

Be as fit as you possibly can. See the above posts.

Go as light as you possibly can. I assume group gear such as ropes, pickets, stoves etc will be provided at high camp. If so, your pack should weigh less than 20 pounds, if not you are doing it wrong.

Have fun. After all, climbing is a means for personal growth.

[Rodchester]

I agree with DPS, GO LIGHT!!!! Leave all of the crap where it belongs....on the shelf at REI.

Drink water like mad, who cares if you have to piss all night long. Stay hydrated.

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Have a nice day.

[pope]

Joy,

You've received a lot of great advice from a number of competent mountaineers. In particular, fitness and hydration are important not only for an enJOYable experience, but also for safety: fresh legs and a sharp mind help prevent tragedies, while a reserve of energy and will is mandatory should self-rescue become necessary.

The problem with staying hydrated is that you've got to pee (when you're not peeing, you're not hydrated); this presents problems when you're a girl. I once climbed the big "R" with a girl named Franci, and she had found a splendid device called a WIZMO, which allowed her to answer nature's calls with wind pants and harness in situ. In fact, she could write her name in the snow. Pretty cool.

[This message has been edited by pope (edited 03-05-2001).]

[Retrosaurus]

Really? Write her name in the snow? At one go, without a break to rehydrate? What a woman! Bladder of steel.

[pope]

Of course she had to drink water, but this WIZMO thing allowed her to pee like a man, without getting out of her harness and bibs. She could write her name in the snow, have a sward fight....everything a man could do. In fact, she was so burly and fit, it was just like climbing with a man, so long as we weren't having a conversation.

[nolanr]

Lots of good advice, and maybe some that isn't so helpful. WIZMO? I've heard of a Lady J, probably about the same thing. Anyway, I would like to submit the following as an ass-kicking training hike. From Colchuck Lake/Stuart Lake trailhead up to Colchuck Lake is a fairly steep 4 miles, then you get the pleasure of climbing about 2000' in 1 mile above the lake to gain Aasgard Pass. It's near 8000', so you get an idea of what exerting yourself at elevation feels like, and for your troubles you get one of the coolest views in the state. It's all downhill from there exploring the fabled Enchantments Basin.