first ascent [TR] Lemolo Peak (erstwhile Hardest Mox) - NE Buttress ("After Hours") V 5.10- R 9/12/2008

[John_Roper]

Hey Devils Clubbers Mike and Erik,

 

Props again to you guys, and since any route on the east face/buttress of ESE/Hardest/Lemolo Mox is possibly the premier route in the North Cascades, can you please lay a line showing your route and 95% end point on the above photos next to those of Eric and Rolf for historical comparison? Just curious to see how much of “After Hours” was “After Yours.”

 

Don’t want to dis/tract from the classic Ross Lake/LB/Perry Creek approach-fun, but I bet future explorers might find the trail up Depot Creek over the pass between Spickard and Solitude 8405’ down into Perry Creek a more efficient way to get to the base and climb of any one of several frightening undone routes on that incredible east face of Lemolo Mox.

 

JR

 

[layton]

Hey Devils Clubbers Mike and Erik,

 

Props again to you guys, and since any route on the east face/buttress of ESE/Hardest/Lemolo Mox is possibly the premier route in the North Cascades, can you please lay a line showing your route and 95% end point on the above photos next to those of Eric and Rolf for historical comparison? Just curious to see how much of “After Hours” was “After Yours.”

 

Don’t want to dis/tract from the classic Ross Lake/LB/Perry Creek approach-fun, but I bet future explorers might find the trail up Depot Creek over the pass between Spickard and Solitude 8405’ down into Perry Creek a more efficient way to get to the base and climb of any one of several frightening undone routes on that incredible east face of Lemolo Mox.

 

JR

 

Here's both lines (as best as I can recall).

 

We cut left where Erik and Rolf went up as seen here. We had no idea that the summit was unclimbed...maybe we'd have done a summit bivy if we knew that, instead of rapping what later became "After Hours"

 

 

well shit, after all this I can't upload a photo? It'll be sitting on my desktop until someone tells me where the upload photo link went to?? Until then, I think you can click it as an attachment on this post?

[Off_White]

Here's that picture from your attachment

 

 

Is that picture of you the same location as this one?

 

[layton]

yeah, that's why I re-posted that other photo! crazy!

Thanks off

[lunger]

yep those pics are of the same rock, slightly different angles.

Regarding JR's post above:

"Don’t want to dis/tract from the classic Ross Lake/LB/Perry Creek approach-fun, but I bet future explorers might find the trail up Depot Creek over the pass between Spickard and Solitude 8405’ down into Perry Creek a more efficient way to get to the base and climb of any one of several frightening undone routes on that incredible east face of Lemolo Mox."

 

An interesting--and relevant--read re: Perry Cr at the bottom of NWMJ page here: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/08/081_Bates.html

 

If the Devil's Club and After Hours are a good party, then the ap/deproach is the sine qua non hangover--what proper celebration (bishes) is complete without the next day's bittersweet pain? We had actually thought about the Depot approach, it just looks like a helluva long way (+driving, border crossing), and Perry Cr is, as stated, plain classic.

[marc_leclerc]

So, did the 'Devil's Club' route not make the summit?

[John_Scurlock]

A perspective view, from the morning of the 16th: http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/103532850

 

none of these photographs come close to capturing the scale of things here. It is a rather remarkable experience to come across the Redoubt/Perry divide & catch the first glimpse of it.

 

 

[JasonG]

On 9/15/2008 at 4:25 PM, lunger said:

Our partnership is built on mutual disrespect and loathing; we share a vile and putrid love, and feed most from each other's misery. I'm not happy until you're not happy.

This is still one of the best things ever written on this site.