ivan Posted January 22, 2009 Author Posted January 22, 2009 hey dave - wanna climb friday? anyone? jeebus - it's my last chance (well, 'cept for next monday i guess...) Quote
denalidave Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 I might be able to get out Friday but would want to do something we can keep moving on. No, Ivanesque belay slave suffer fest type projects. Ran the corner today and it was pretty damn cold and still plenty windy too. What did you have in mind? Quote
ivan Posted January 22, 2009 Author Posted January 22, 2009 you soloed the corner today? nice! Â i've got the new aid route pretty much wired and it'll got quick now (i gotta do it friday or wait till summer) - we could climb something cool to get up there like blownout, then finish via the new sickness - we'd have to scare up a pair of jugs though Quote
billcoe Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 Whoa, I need to read this sh*t more often..."As the Beacon Turns part deux!" I caught some of this on the tele, but this sounds even sicker! DD, hope you got Adam's a stuff: if so you rule. I'll comp you a new DMM locksafe Boa if you grabbed it for him, not kidding I have 12 coming in soon from the REI supersale: gear whore to gear whore direct like:-) My only critera/stipulation is that you have to leave the sale tag on it till you get after something super sick and want to spare the weight of the tag...just to give it some "Cachet!" Â Benny: thanks for the invite: as an out of shape old man, that's what I was talkin about with you:-) I probably need to send my boy a thank you note for coming into town and sparing me the humiliation of Dods in full on winter shrinkage condition. Â JH, dude, I hope you don't mind but I'm cornsidering using All that, and I spasm my back getting out of my tights in the bathroom - there is no god, only demons who punish sloth and laziness.. on the favorite quote thread/page. I wonder if your back spasmed cause you didn't warm up (or warm up enough)? The cold is a definite detriment to the horror troika of aged bones, elderly inelastic muscles and hard work. In fact it hits the kids too on occasion. It may be but little consolation that Beacon will be closed soon and you have ample time to heal up. I just hope it heals soon as bad backs suck beyond description and I really feel for ya. Time to start hanging with Rhoda to do the Yoga over the winter once you can grit your teeth crawl out of bed again I suspect? Â Looks like it's time for another edition of "As the Plug Turns" Â Take care all, be safe... and heal up. Â Â Â Quote
denalidave Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 you soloed the corner today? nice! Â i've got the new aid route pretty much wired and it'll got quick now (i gotta do it friday or wait till summer) - we could climb something cool to get up there like blownout, then finish via the new sickness - we'd have to scare up a pair of jugs though No, but we did FREE it, or Froze it, as it were. I ain't soloing anything with weather and winds like this, cept maybe a free solo trip to the mailbox, even that is pretty sketch now. Pretty fun anyway. Plans of lounging at LLP ledge were nixed to get up and off and warmed back up. Looks like it might rain on Friday but lets keep an eye on the weather. I'd really rather climb than aid in the cold though. Quote
denalidave Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 DD, hope you got Adam's a stuff: if so you rule. I'll comp you a new DMM locksafe Boa if you grabbed it for him, not kidding I have 12 coming in soon from the REI supersale: gear whore to gear whore direct like:-) My only critera/stipulation is that you have to leave the sale tag on it till you get after something super sick and want to spare the weight of the tag...just to give it some "Cachet!" Â Yeah, got the gear. We thought you might have been ahead of us as a car just like your was parked at the climber's end of the lot. Another party was on the corner ahead of us but they left the gear so I have it now and am waiting to hear back from AW as to how to get it back to him. Â What I really need right now is a soloist, or better yet, a silent partner. Any chance you have one you can loan to me for a week next month? Geoff said his bro will lend me one, which reminds me, I need to e-mail him. Promise to replace, or repay actual cost if I damage or lose it. Â Quote
JosephH Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 Dave - good job on getting out and grabbing Adam's gear, real nice of you. I'm guessing it's still pretty stout out there - name of the game is definitely keep moving. Â Bill, I think it's mainly because I've done absolutely nothing but sit in my office chair or lay on my office lounge for three months programming and not doing anything more physical than pounding keys. Got too far out of shape, soft, and weak I think. Â Let's put it this way, after doing the Corner friday I tried to do FFA p1 three times downclimbing from the fourth move each time and then decided I couldn't get up to the pod without pro so bailed for YW. Quote
denalidave Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 I'm guessing it's still pretty stout out there - name of the game is definitely keep moving. Â The day started with much calmer winds than the past weekend but by the time we got to LLP ledge it was really ripping again. Even more so when we topped out. Quote
billcoe Posted January 22, 2009 Posted January 22, 2009 (edited) Yeah, got the gear. We thought you might have been ahead of us as a car just like your was parked at the climber's end of the lot. Another party was on the corner ahead of us but they left the gear so I have it now and am waiting to hear back from AW as to how to get it back to him. Â What I really need right now is a soloist, or better yet, a silent partner. Any chance you have one you can loan to me for a week next month? Geoff said his bro will lend me one, which reminds me, I need to e-mail him. Promise to replace, or repay actual cost if I damage or lose it. Â Abosofrigganloutly I do and you can borrow whatever you prefer! I have both, of course, don't like either...cough*gearwhore*cough* you pick one. The SP is almost new, HOWEVER, the common knowledge caution is that they are not to be used in sub freezing conditions. Frozen water inside, even condensation, can cause the centrifugal clutch to be inoperative and not lock up when you're screaming towards the dirt. Stick it in your crotch area and it should stay warm or above freezing though. The downside of the Soloist is you need a chest harness and it won't lock up on inverted falls, I've been using a tied 8mm rope as a chest harness, it works acceptably as long as you don't fall. I can get it to Adam easily and you folks can hook up. In eithercase, you still get a great DMM Locksafe Boa biner - with the tag still attached, by way of a thank you from me for your honesty and for grabbing his stuff. Thats sooooo cool. Adam can be your beer dealer or whatever! Â When do you need this by? I might be skiing Sunday at Meadows and can swing by your house, or probably will be at the Far Side Saturday digging dirt off the cliff in the rain. That would be the best....or I suppose I could head over to Beacon for a corner lap with you first....whatever works. I'll be at the far side in the rain as long as it's not crazy wet. You can come to my home if you're in PDX too. Or I can drive over to your house too, as long as you return the gear back at some point it's all good. Â PM me your phone number and address and let me know what works. Â ____________________________________________________________ Â JH, I think this common malady has hit a lot of us:-) I'd rather blame the cold though. Hope you heal fast! Edited January 22, 2009 by billcoe Quote
denalidave Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Ivan, looks like I'm working most of the day so I won't be at Beacon on Friday for any climbing. Quote
King Beatard Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Dave, If it's dry, I'm hoping to play hooky from work Saturday to finish cleaning some routes and do FA's at Far Side. If so I can swing by your house or meet you somewhere that is convenient for you. They don't sell beer at FS so you'll have to tell me what you like or suffer though my random choice. Â Thanks again for grabbing my stuff for me. Quote
denalidave Posted January 23, 2009 Posted January 23, 2009 Dave, If it's dry, I'm hoping to play hooky from work Saturday to finish cleaning some routes and do FA's at Far Side. If so I can swing by your house or meet you somewhere that is convenient for you. They don't sell beer at FS so you'll have to tell me what you like or suffer though my random choice. Â Thanks again for grabbing my stuff for me. I was planning on meeting Bill there at the FS anyway to borrow his silent partner. I will bring your gear and either give it to you or Bill if you don't make it out. No need to bring me any beer but for future reference, I'm an IPA guy. Quote
King Beatard Posted January 24, 2009 Posted January 24, 2009 Good to know Dave, it would be sad to get PBR for being a good dude when you drink hardman beer. Sadly their will be no climbing for me tomorrow as hooky ended up being a pipe-dream. Quote
denalidave Posted January 24, 2009 Posted January 24, 2009 Good to know Dave, it would be sad to get PBR for being a good dude when you drink hardman beer. Sadly their will be no climbing for me tomorrow as hooky ended up being a pipe-dream. Funny you say that as I used to scoff at PBR but now I really like it. I quit drinking any beer for over a year and now I treat myself to a PBR after climbing sometimes. A lot less calories than a good micro brew. Â I'm going to swing by FS today and give your stuff to Bill. He said he can get it back to you. Glad I was able to get it for you. Don't work to hard. Quote
Moof Posted January 24, 2009 Posted January 24, 2009 (edited) Where the hell were you all today? It was glorious out there, the sounds of nearby shotgun fire, no rain (steady gusts of snow flakes instead), and no line for SE Corner. Â Took down my fixed line. It was too damn cold, so I did not get the last lead bolt replaced. Maybe come summer. Â Ivan, I was wrong about the ledge size, it is much smaller than I was thinking. It is triangular with the well side being 7-8', and jutting out about 4-5' at it's widest. OK bivy for 1. The bolts are right at 5' up from the ledge, so hauling should be OK. Judging from my rap lines, a haul bag will hang out in space most of the way, and there are no real edges or ledges to wear the rope or snag the bag. Â New PDHW II anchor bolts: Â The very alluring hand/fist crack off the ledge to places unknown (Jensen's eventually?): Â The crack at the base. Purists can build their anchor with #2-#3's, eschewing the bolts...: Â My toes are still cold... Â FYI, I had right at 25-30' of extra rope from my 60m lines, so 2 55m ropes or longer are required. I did not see any intermediate rap station to easily get to, so it's all or nothing. Edited January 25, 2009 by Moof Quote
ivan Posted January 25, 2009 Author Posted January 25, 2009 nice! i got my fill yday though - looking forward to checking out your handiwork next season... Quote
JosephH Posted January 25, 2009 Posted January 25, 2009 Good going, you guys are all definitely hardmen for doing all that aid in the cold. Just so you know, I do have a stash of the Heavy Rap Hangers from Metolius, 13mm SS Hangers from Fixe, and SS bolts from Bill for Beacon. No need to buy anchors if you don't already have them - just give me a shout and I'll be happy to get some to you. Quote
Moof Posted January 25, 2009 Posted January 25, 2009 Thanks Joseph, and Bill, Â Next season when things are less epic I'll go after the last lead bolt and the anchor bolt for Pipedream, so one of those monsters would be great. Â I can also donate a pile of plain Fixe SS hangers, the big burly 35kN ones, for any lead bolts that need upgrades. I think I have about 20-25 that no longer have any plans for them. Quote
King Beatard Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 Good to know Dave, it would be sad to get PBR for being a good dude when you drink hardman beer. Sadly their will be no climbing for me tomorrow as hooky ended up being a pipe-dream. Funny you say that as I used to scoff at PBR but now I really like it. I quit drinking any beer for over a year and now I treat myself to a PBR after climbing sometimes. A lot less calories than a good micro brew. Â I'm going to swing by FS today and give your stuff to Bill. He said he can get it back to you. Glad I was able to get it for you. Don't work to hard. Â Got the gear back from Bill. Thanks Dave, Bill, Kenny, Joseph, and the group ahead of Dave and Kenny that didn't touch the gear. As we speak my re-racked gear is telling the tale to all my other gear and getting them stoked for next Saturday. Â Dave, let me know when you're in Portland and we'll have to go for a beer. Otherwise I should be at Beacon on Saturday for the end of the season and I'd guess you'll probably be there too. This time I'm not working Saturday unless it's at gunpoint. Â Speaking of Saturday, does the local Beacon community ever do a last day BBQ or anything - might be fun and after all the favors I've called in this week I think I might be the one to provide the grub. If anyone thinks that would be fun. Quote
ivan Posted January 26, 2009 Author Posted January 26, 2009 Â Speaking of Saturday, does the local Beacon community ever do a last day BBQ or anything - might be fun and after all the favors I've called in this week I think I might be the one to provide the grub. If anyone thinks that would be fun. jimmy o, the beacon patriarch, was talking 'bout doing some sorta season closer at his place,which given my current and deeply dark mode, would be a fucking godsend - kev or pink might be the best mouthpieces for him, the anti-godfather of allthings internetish... Quote
ivan Posted January 26, 2009 Author Posted January 26, 2009 niiice. now here's hoping i can remember something 2 weeks in advance! Quote
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