kevbone Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 Trip: Beacon Rock - Young Warriors, Crusin to SE corner Date: 7/30/2008 Trip Report: Got out to beautiful Beacon Rock about 4 pm and met Jaime. Ran down the trail to the base of Young Warriors to find I forgot my shoes in the car (first time I had forgotten something in the car in over 10 years), so I ran back up the trail to get them….. Young Warriors is a varied route at Beacon, climbing corners, slabs (crux), faces and who can forget total choss (second pitch)……JIM ADD A BOLT. YW is 5 pitches. It connects with the final pitch on the classic SE corner climb to make 6 pitches in all. We toped out to the hikers trail in about 1 ½ hours. Walked/ran down trail to base of cliff again. Jaime led Crusin (5.7) and cruised it placing only 3 pieces. I led the second pitch of the SE corner up to tree ledge (this is where JH found a pile of shit), the shit was not there. We unroped and soloed together up to the “land of the little people” where we did not hang out due to showers were coming. We could see and smell rain coming. Off again up and over the notch and down to Uprising. We cruised Uprising as the rain started. As we reached the trail the rain was pouring now. Thank god it is summer or this would have sucked. We walked down the trail in a complete downpour. We started climbing at 4:30 and toped out twice and got back to car at 7:45. 1,200 feet of climbing after a long day at work is great…….thanks Jaime. Climbing in the gorge us superb. Especially in a rain storm in the summer. Gear Notes: Small rack Approach Notes: Sandals work great, five minute walk Quote
billcoe Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 Nice. No new bolt if I get a vote. I don't clip the only one on that pitch as it is. But thats me. Sounds like a good day. Quote
kevbone Posted July 30, 2008 Author Posted July 30, 2008 Bill, the second pitch has three bolts. All unnecessary IMO. The one place on that pitch that the rock is total crap and the gear would not hold a ten food fall has no bolt. Irony is strong here. I have asked Jim to take out the three bolts and add one right below the “butt hole”…..he of course thinks is perfect the way it is……oh well. I will still climb it. Quote
JosephH Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 Kevin, glad you got a chance to get out. Yeah, I cleaned up the shitpile when I got to the ledge the other day hence the 'janitorial staff' reference. I'm with Bill, that would be a no vote from me as well. You have a bolt below you and pro right at your feet at the mantle up if you want it and then solid pro at the start of the hand crack. You're at most 'run out' something like fifteen feet over very easy terrain in between. The rock is fine enough if you're careful and distribute your weight across all four points of contact. I'd be with you for removing two of the three bolts, keeping the one by the pin. For me, I'd say if anything move the first pitch anchor down so a 60m reaches the ground - pretty much marooned and worthless where it is since the big trundle... Quote
motomagik Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 I would have to agree about that 2nd pitch on YW. I tried that for the first time a few weeks ago and that totally chossy cave thing really gave me grief, I just stared up at it forever thinking, "i think this is where i need to go but that looks like total ass and there's no way there is any decent gear up there"... Yeah, take out the bolts on the traversey part down low (there's good gear there) and put one in where it would be useful... Quote
denalidave Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 No need for any new bolts on YW, IMO. One of my favorites out there, keep it as it is. Quote
John Frieh Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 I'd like a porta potty @ the tree ledge please. Quote
kevbone Posted July 30, 2008 Author Posted July 30, 2008 You have a bolt below you and pro right at your feet at the mantle up if you want it and then solid pro at the start of the hand crack. You're at most 'run out' something like fifteen feet over very easy terrain in between. The rock is fine enough if you're careful and distribute your weight across all four points of contact. There are three lead bolts on the pitch with one for belaying on the ledge. I belay off to the left at the pin and lone bolt. If had my way I would remove all the lead bolts and replace the “lone” anchor bolt with a single bolt for belaying. I would add one bolt where you need it up and right at the stance where you place the yellow alien down low to your left. Sooner or later some unlucky sole will rip off one of the shit pieces of rock you pull on to get to the awesome crack above and take the ride of his/her life. Oh well…..that climbing for ya! I'd say if anything move the first pitch anchor down so a 60m reaches the ground I have rapped from that anchor a couple of dozen times. I have a 60m rope. I have to down climb like 3 feet. No big deal. Quote
JosephH Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 If had my way I would remove all the lead bolts and replace the “lone” anchor bolt with a single bolt for belaying. I would do that as well. I would add one bolt where you need it up and right at the stance where you place the yellow alien down low to your left. I've never felt the need to place anything between the bolt and a yellow TCU at the bottom of the hand slot, but I'd say if you did you'd be better off putting a piece down just below your feet at the stance before you mantle up into it than to place anything in the choss once you're up there. Sooner or later some unlucky sole will rip off one of the shit pieces of rock you pull on to get to the awesome crack above and take the ride of his/her life. Oh well…..that climbing for ya! If you have your weight distributed over evenly across both hands and both feet you should be immune to anything coming off. I'd say if anything move the first pitch anchor down so a 60m reaches the ground I have rapped from that anchor a couple of dozen times. I have a 60m rope. I have to down climb like 3 feet. No big deal. All my 60's must be 16 feet short because they all end up eight feet short and if you did blow the transition since the big trundle you'd be landing on the rock you formerly used to step around at the top of p1. Quote
kevbone Posted July 30, 2008 Author Posted July 30, 2008 If I we were to add a bolt it would be on the face at the stance you place the yellow alien at. AFTER the mantle. The messed up thing about this is the guy who has the power to say yah or nay doesnt lead it anymore, but thinks it is fine the way it is..... If Jims says you can lower the first pitch anchor....I would go for it. I will ask him about it. I will also ask him about replacing the "lone" anchor bolt by the pin that is used for belaying. That thing is rushing out. Quote
eldiente Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 I found a bomber blue Alien right above the little mantle move just to the left. This blue alien protects the short "lose" move and would only be a short fall if one of the undercling flakes were to break. The little mantle move is protected by another solid Alien right at waist level, and I think there was a #1 BD maybe a 2 feet below that. So that's 3 pieces in 15 feet of climbing, although the blue Alien is hard to find. Yeah it would be cool if there was an anchor far left, help make the pitch less contrived and less drag. -Nate Quote
ivan Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 did this w/ beaconben and jeff thomas the day after i saw the irrascible john frieh doing it the day before - first time i'd done the route w/ a rope in a long time - somehow found a completely new way to do the move above the traverse on pitch 2 that made the whole thing seem much, much easier - no new bolts required, though moving hte old anchor to the defacto anchor site makes sense Quote
kevbone Posted July 30, 2008 Author Posted July 30, 2008 first time i'd done the route w/ a rope in a long time Are you saying you have free soloed Young Warriors? All of it? Quote
ivan Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 I'm hot tempered? dude, don't fuck w/ me when i'm in the mood to use a word, da'lright?!? Quote
John Frieh Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 I'm hot tempered? dude, don't fuck w/ me when i'm in the mood to use a word, da'lright?!? well, i'll go to college and i'll learn some big words and i'll talk real loud goddamn right i'll be heard you'll remember all the guys that said all those big words he must've learned in college Quote
ivan Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 first time i'd done the route w/ a rope in a long time Are you saying you have free soloed Young Warriors? All of it? not that i'm some badass soloist (your boy jaime is way stronger/bolder than me), but yeah - the top pitches i do all the time, the first one i do occasionally w/ a rope to rap off, and the judge dread pitch only once when i was being a little whiney bitch about how life was working out (no need to talk sense to me, the experience got me good n' grounded and now is somethign to laugh about when armed w/ a rope) i don't understand why everyone isn't soloing the first pitch of dod's jam - wow, what a solid good time that is and totally sane/reasonable. Quote
kevbone Posted July 30, 2008 Author Posted July 30, 2008 Wow.....do you solo the 4th pitch straight over the bolt or do you go left then traverse back over? Quote
ivan Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 I'm hot tempered? dude, don't fuck w/ me when i'm in the mood to use a word, da'lright?!? well, i'll go to college and i'll learn some big words and i'll talk real loud goddamn right i'll be heard you'll remember all the guys that said all those big words he must've learned in college the only word i can remember learning in college was "ubiqitious," which was only because it was used so goddamn ubiqitiously! feeling irrascible yet, huh, punk? Quote
ivan Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 Wow.....do you solo the 4th pitch straight over the bolt or do you go left then traverse back over? that's the pitch i do all the time since it has no choss on it and is very low angle - you can skip the kinda thin and steep scary third pithc of yw by taking the ramp pitch of the se corner about 3/4 of the way up, then cut right just before the grassy ledges and traverse over and up to the smoke ledge and no, i don't climb the incredibly contrived 10a move there on the 4th pitch as it's very silly when you can step 4 feet sideways and avoid it - the funnest move is the one above that, above the pin in the slab - the first time i did it this season i found meself momentarily confused, hanging by my hands w/ my feet scrambling in space - meow! Quote
kevbone Posted July 30, 2008 Author Posted July 30, 2008 and no, i don't climb the incredibly contrived 10a move there on the 4th pitch as it's very silly when you can step 4 feet sideways and avoid it - I once stepped left.....that felt contrived. If you miss the straight up over the bolt move....you are missing the point of the entire 5 pitch climb. IMO Quote
JosephH Posted July 30, 2008 Posted July 30, 2008 If I we were to add a bolt it would be on the face at the stance you place the yellow alien at. AFTER the mantle. The messed up thing about this is the guy who has the power to say yah or nay doesnt lead it anymore, but thinks it is fine the way it is..... If Jims says you can lower the first pitch anchor....I would go for it. I will ask him about it. I will also ask him about replacing the "lone" anchor bolt by the pin that is used for belaying. That thing is rushing out. No need, Jim doesn't want it moved. Where it is works for me for LW, so I don't mind, but it's pretty worthless for YW. Again, I'd say there's pro right at your feet at the mantle and then it's only two short moves off the stance ledge to place a cam in the bottom of the slot. Quote
billcoe Posted August 4, 2008 Posted August 4, 2008 Ujahn talked me into doing a Young Warriors lap Sunday with Adam Winslow. If anyone gets a chance to get out with Adam: recommended. Good guy, pretty much has his shit together and is just starting to get on cracks and multipitch, so maybe some knowledge gaps which dude is sharp enough to figure out quick. Figure he'll be a quick study and outclimbing me in a short period of time. (this is an old familiar story:-) On route. Tope of P4 belay with Norsemans head behind. I suggested he call Jim and do a SE corner lap. Anyone wants a competitant partner for a Corner lap, he's it, and needs to jump on that route. Quote
kevbone Posted August 4, 2008 Author Posted August 4, 2008 Great last shot there Bill. With the Norsemans head clearly in the background. Quote
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