Crillz Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 So, There may be threads on this already, but I'm either too lazy to search, or was unable to find after extensive searching - you decide. What are some good 5.9s and low 5.10s for the beginning trad leader (good pro, no crazy runouts)- besides the obvious climbs from the recent index weekend thread. Thanks for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 I don't know what thread you are talking about, maybe you should make a link. How about Roger's Corner, Toxic Shock, Godzilla, Breakfast of Champions, Libra Crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 There's a short 9 over by narrow arrow called Quarry Crack or something. Short, kinda wide. I had fun on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Senior Citizens in Space, Battered Sandwich, both at Private Idaho, the first short pitch of Thin Fingers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Plum Pudding on the mid wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 (edited) So, (good pro, no crazy runouts)- That seems to describe the vast majority of climbs there. My vote is for "TGS" a 3-pitch 5.9 that goes to the top of the Upper Town Wall, and starts just right of "Biology of small appliances". The 2nd pitch is really good and long, and would be good for a 5.8/5.9 leader. Also, along the Mid-Wall TRail: After passing above the blues cliff, the trail goes over some stairs by a lookout. There are now 2 sets of anchors there, to give access to routes which are rappel-in (or TR) and climb out. The one of the right is 5.9 bolted, meant to be good. I think it'd be cool if everyone got on some of the less-frequently climbed routes there, which might be just as good as the popular ones. When people start to ignore a route, it gets dirtier and more vegetated, which discourages climbing on it, etc etc and everyone lines up for 3 or 4 routes. I was amazed to check out how many sub 5.10 climbs exist in the Sky Valley Rock guidebook, and they are never crowded. Edited May 13, 2008 by Blake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 GM!!!! best 5.9 at Index. Except for the scary 4th class start, you can sew it up (Bring two #3 Camalots). After the first pitch and a half there's chains on a ledge, where you have a choice. You can go right for the Heart of the Country finish. It is the super-sweet handcrack you always fantasize about. Or you can finish left via GM proper for some wider crack burliness (North Ridge of Stuart Gendarme OW simulator). There's a one-move offwidth problem that starts it that can be significantly tamed with a #6 Camalot (or old style #5, Green). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 Exactly. I've been combing through the Sky Valley book looking for good climbs, but thought it would be helpful to get some ideas, so I don't spend time wandering from area to area only to find dirty unfriendly routes. I've cruised around the GNS and parts of the lower wall, and want to venture to other areas to increase the amount of climbs that I might actually get up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Argus Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Here is a list of climbs by rating from Clint Cummins web site. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/rating1.gif Also, Rattletale looks pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishmael Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 GM!!!! best 5.9 at Index... Yep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 FWIW, I thought the last pitch of GM (3+ inch corner crack, not the lower squeeze) was harder than the gendarme OW on Stuart, or for that matter the first gendarme lieback pitch on Stuart. If you can do GM you should be able to cruise on Stuart. Go get it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canyondweller Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 So, What are some good 5.9s and low 5.10s for the beginning trad leader (good pro, no crazy runouts)- besides the obvious climbs from the recent index weekend thread. Thanks for any input. Wow, beginning trad leaders are starting on Index 5.9/5.10s now? If I had a friend who was a "beginning trad leader" (regardless of how hard they could follow), I would strongly encourage them to hone their leading craft on the easier sub-5.8 climbs of Leavenworth or Squamish, prior to jumping on Princely Ambitions, Godzilla, or Breakfast of Champions. I'm just saying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Wow, beginning trad leaders are starting on Index 5.9/5.10s now? Yeah, that's right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 ignore the wanker crillz. he hasn't climbed with you. roger's corner is good one as mentioned. battered sandwich is fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narrowarrow Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 DO ROGER'S, BREAKFAST, BEAK BEAK BEAK! THEN DO SOME LANDSCAPING ON TATOOSH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canyondweller Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 (edited) ignore the wanker crillz. he hasn't climbed with you. roger's corner is good one as mentioned. battered sandwich is fun I don't have to have climbed with the dude to know that there are better places for newbie leaders to learn gear-placing and other such skills needed by someone leading a naturally-protected climb. Re: Roger's Corner, it's a great climb, but I'm sure she's never climbed it. EDIT: While standing by my above statement, I have also been advised that the leader in question is not really a "beginner". Edited June 4, 2008 by canyondweller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 the first short pitch of Thin Fingers I'd be wary of this one. The crux of it is about 6-8 feet above a large ledge, and with another 30-40 feet of rope out, unless you're basically aiding it, you're going to hit the ledge from rope stretch if you fall at the wrong time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canyondweller Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 I recall that crux is a couple-move wonder and then it's good. No need to fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Well... I think calling canyondweller a wanker there was a little harsh with the info given. I guess maybe Crillz is rock-solid at the grades given but we just don't know it. I am a pretty seasoned trad leader, and RC to BOC is stellar. When climbing it, I was glad that I know how to place gear that will unquestionably hold me if I fall on it. There was gear readily available the whole way. Make your own decision. At Private Idaho, Battered Sandwich seemed like it would be an awkward lead (it was an awkward follow). But if you like weird chimneying bring some big gear and go for it. Magic Fern and Senior Citizens in Space were easily protectable and fun, the latter would be especially casual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 rattle tale second pitch is 5.10c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 At Private Idaho, Battered Sandwich seemed like it would be an awkward lead (it was an awkward follow). But if you like weird chimneying bring some big gear and go for it. Magic Fern and Senior Citizens in Space were easily protectable and fun, the latter would be especially casual. i remember it being a little awkward but i'm on the short side so maybe not so bad for me. that and i have a strange affection for weird chimneys and i've got plenty of big gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canyondweller Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Well... I think calling canyondweller a wanker there was a little harsh with the info given. Good job calling out a mod for excessive namecalling. Everything below the chimney was what was awkward, for me, on BS; the chimney was just a 'grunt and go up' thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Do these two statements seem contradictory to you? I recall that crux is a couple-move wonder and then it's good. No need to fall. I would strongly encourage them to hone their leading craft on the easier sub-5.8 climbs of Leavenworth or Squamish, prior to jumping on Princely Ambitions, Godzilla, or Breakfast of Champions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 It is a bit of a hike, but Blake's suggestion of TGS is good. It wouldn't be unreasonable to do the first two pitches of D-H as well (just bring extra thin-handish pieces for D-H p2). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canyondweller Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Do these two statements seem contradictory to you? I recall that crux is a couple-move wonder and then it's good. No need to fall. I would strongly encourage them to hone their leading craft on the easier sub-5.8 climbs of Leavenworth or Squamish, prior to jumping on Princely Ambitions, Godzilla, or Breakfast of Champions No. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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