Index Starters

[Crillz]

So,

There may be threads on this already, but I'm either too lazy to search, or was unable to find after extensive searching - you decide.

 

What are some good 5.9s and low 5.10s for the beginning trad leader (good pro, no crazy runouts)- besides the obvious climbs from the recent index weekend thread.

 

Thanks for any input.

[ashw_justin]

I don't know what thread you are talking about, maybe you should make a link.

 

How about Roger's Corner, Toxic Shock, Godzilla, Breakfast of Champions, Libra Crack

[rob]

There's a short 9 over by narrow arrow called Quarry Crack or something. Short, kinda wide. I had fun on it.

[fenderfour]

Senior Citizens in Space, Battered Sandwich, both at Private Idaho, the first short pitch of Thin Fingers.

[Argus]

Plum Pudding on the mid wall.

[Blake]

So,

(good pro, no crazy runouts)-

 

That seems to describe the vast majority of climbs there.

 

My vote is for "TGS" a 3-pitch 5.9 that goes to the top of the Upper Town Wall, and starts just right of "Biology of small appliances". The 2nd pitch is really good and long, and would be good for a 5.8/5.9 leader.

 

 

Also, along the Mid-Wall TRail: After passing above the blues cliff, the trail goes over some stairs by a lookout. There are now 2 sets of anchors there, to give access to routes which are rappel-in (or TR) and climb out. The one of the right is 5.9 bolted, meant to be good.

 

 

I think it'd be cool if everyone got on some of the less-frequently climbed routes there, which might be just as good as the popular ones. When people start to ignore a route, it gets dirtier and more vegetated, which discourages climbing on it, etc etc and everyone lines up for 3 or 4 routes.

 

I was amazed to check out how many sub 5.10 climbs exist in the Sky Valley Rock guidebook, and they are never crowded.

 

 

Edited May 13, 2008 by Blake

[chucK]

GM!!!! best 5.9 at Index. Except for the scary 4th class start, you can sew it up (Bring two #3 Camalots). After the first pitch and a half there's chains on a ledge, where you have a choice. You can go right for the Heart of the Country finish. It is the super-sweet handcrack you always fantasize about. Or you can finish left via GM proper for some wider crack burliness (North Ridge of Stuart Gendarme OW simulator). There's a one-move offwidth problem that starts it that can be significantly tamed with a #6 Camalot (or old style #5, Green).

 

[Crillz]

Exactly.

I've been combing through the Sky Valley book looking for good climbs, but thought it would be helpful to get some ideas, so I don't spend time wandering from area to area only to find dirty unfriendly routes.

 

I've cruised around the GNS and parts of the lower wall, and want to venture to other areas to increase the amount of climbs that I might actually get up.

 

[Argus]

Here is a list of climbs by rating from Clint Cummins web site.

 

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/rating1.gif

 

Also, Rattletale looks pretty good.

 

 

[Ishmael]

GM!!!! best 5.9 at Index...

 

Yep.

[Rad]

FWIW, I thought the last pitch of GM (3+ inch corner crack, not the lower squeeze) was harder than the gendarme OW on Stuart, or for that matter the first gendarme lieback pitch on Stuart. If you can do GM you should be able to cruise on Stuart. Go get it!

[canyondweller]

So,

What are some good 5.9s and low 5.10s for the beginning trad leader (good pro, no crazy runouts)- besides the obvious climbs from the recent index weekend thread.

 

Thanks for any input.

 

Wow, beginning trad leaders are starting on Index 5.9/5.10s now? If I had a friend who was a "beginning trad leader" (regardless of how hard they could follow), I would strongly encourage them to hone their leading craft on the easier sub-5.8 climbs of Leavenworth or Squamish, prior to jumping on Princely Ambitions, Godzilla, or Breakfast of Champions. I'm just saying...

[Crillz]

 

Wow, beginning trad leaders are starting on Index 5.9/5.10s now?

 

Yeah, that's right.

[minx]

ignore the wanker crillz. he hasn't climbed with you.

 

roger's corner is good one as mentioned.

 

battered sandwich is fun

[narrowarrow]

DO ROGER'S, BREAKFAST, BEAK BEAK BEAK! THEN DO SOME LANDSCAPING ON TATOOSH.

[canyondweller]

ignore the wanker crillz. he hasn't climbed with you.

 

roger's corner is good one as mentioned.

 

battered sandwich is fun

 

I don't have to have climbed with the dude to know that there are better places for newbie leaders to learn gear-placing and other such skills needed by someone leading a naturally-protected climb.

 

Re: Roger's Corner, it's a great climb, but I'm sure she's never climbed it.

 

EDIT: While standing by my above statement, I have also been advised that the leader in question is not really a "beginner".

Edited June 4, 2008 by canyondweller

[Gary_Yngve]

the first short pitch of Thin Fingers

 

I'd be wary of this one. The crux of it is about 6-8 feet above a large ledge, and with another 30-40 feet of rope out, unless you're basically aiding it, you're going to hit the ledge from rope stretch if you fall at the wrong time.

[canyondweller]

I recall that crux is a couple-move wonder and then it's good. No need to fall.

[counterfeitfake]

Well... I think calling canyondweller a wanker there was a little harsh with the info given. I guess maybe Crillz is rock-solid at the grades given but we just don't know it.

 

I am a pretty seasoned trad leader, and RC to BOC is stellar. When climbing it, I was glad that I know how to place gear that will unquestionably hold me if I fall on it. There was gear readily available the whole way. Make your own decision.

 

At Private Idaho, Battered Sandwich seemed like it would be an awkward lead (it was an awkward follow). But if you like weird chimneying bring some big gear and go for it. Magic Fern and Senior Citizens in Space were easily protectable and fun, the latter would be especially casual.

[shapp]

rattle tale second pitch is 5.10c

[minx]

At Private Idaho, Battered Sandwich seemed like it would be an awkward lead (it was an awkward follow). But if you like weird chimneying bring some big gear and go for it. Magic Fern and Senior Citizens in Space were easily protectable and fun, the latter would be especially casual.

 

i remember it being a little awkward but i'm on the short side so maybe not so bad for me. that and i have a strange affection for weird chimneys and i've got plenty of big gear.

[canyondweller]

Well... I think calling canyondweller a wanker there was a little harsh with the info given.

 

Good job calling out a mod for excessive namecalling.

 

Everything below the chimney was what was awkward, for me, on BS; the chimney was just a 'grunt and go up' thing.

[Gary_Yngve]

Do these two statements seem contradictory to you?

 

I recall that crux is a couple-move wonder and then it's good. No need to fall.

 

I would strongly encourage them to hone their leading craft on the easier sub-5.8 climbs of Leavenworth or Squamish, prior to jumping on Princely Ambitions, Godzilla, or Breakfast of Champions

 

[Gary_Yngve]

It is a bit of a hike, but Blake's suggestion of TGS is good. It wouldn't be unreasonable to do the first two pitches of D-H as well (just bring extra thin-handish pieces for D-H p2).

[canyondweller]

Do these two statements seem contradictory to you?

 

I recall that crux is a couple-move wonder and then it's good. No need to fall.

 

I would strongly encourage them to hone their leading craft on the easier sub-5.8 climbs of Leavenworth or Squamish, prior to jumping on Princely Ambitions, Godzilla, or Breakfast of Champions

 

No.