Index Sunday?

[selkirk]

First Blood is not a fist crack contrary to what the guidebook says. I should not be able to get knee locks in a fist crack!!

[sobo]

any easy trad route suggestions at Tieton? I'm headed there today...

Be aware that the lower grades at Royal Columns will lend themselves to less protection opportunities. This is because the cracks are rather wide in the 5.3/5.4 range, although the climbing is super easy and straightforward. Pay attention that the injury potential on these lesser-graded climbs is generally greater than the harder routes. Take Apprentice (5.3), for example, as AR Guy mentioned. More that a few budding trad leaders have had their ankles/knees/elbows/legs/arms meet an untimely end on that climb. Most climbs in this range are off-widths at RC. Miladugga gave you a good list (Slacker, Good Timer, etc.). You'll have to reach in deep to get pro, holds, etc.

 

Moving into the 5.5/5.6 range offers better protection scenarios, as the cracks are narrowing up a bit more (hand and fist jams, foot jams). Miladugga left you a great list to get on (Nimble Novice, Nimrod's Nemesis, Double Trouble, etc.) Others not to be missed are The Sorcerer, Twin Cracks, and a trio of really short 5.6 cracks toward the far left side of the face. They all end at a common (bolted) anchor.

 

By the time you're in the 5.7 to 5.8 climbs, you're doing finger and toe jams. Entrance Exam and Cutting Edge are favorites. Render Us Weightless is a roof climb that is far easier than it looks from the ground. Although we're talking about RC right now, do not miss the opportunity to get on Ed's Jam at The Bend, just upriver (again, miladugga gets the credit for pointing you to this fabulous crack). There is no finer 5.8 crack in the entire state as easily protectable as EJ, IMHO.

 

By 5.9/5.10, finger locks and smears and edging become de rigeur. Things to get on include Inca Roads, Thriller Pillar Direct (technically a sport climb), Developing Arms, Orange Sunshine, X-Eyed & Painless, etc. By 5.11, it's tough crimping, pinkie/ring finger locks (for me at least), and deft edging almost exclusively. But then, I've only done a couple of 11's at RC, and that was a hella while back.

 

Regarding the notion that RC is a sandbag haven, I say Pfffft! It's as fairly graded as any classic destination climbing area. Everything I've climbed there over the past 20-odd years is spot-on for the grade. Ya, I know, this argument has been had on this board a bazillion times before, and I'm not gonna engage anyone in it again. However, I strongly feel that the route pioneers at RC did an excellent job of selecting the ratings. They fit nicely with what I grew up climbing. Now if they could just get rid of the rattlers...

[KaskadskyjKozak]

any easy trad route suggestions at Tieton? I'm headed there today...

Be aware that the lower grades at Royal Columns will lend themselves to less protection opportunities. This is because the cracks are rather wide in the 5.3/5.4 range, although the climbing is super easy and straightforward. Pay attention that the injury potential on these lesser-graded climbs is generally greater than the harder routes. Take Apprentice (5.3), for example, as someone mentioned. More that a few budding trad leaders have had their ankles/knees/elbows/legs/arms meet an untimely end on that climb. Most climbs in this range are off-widths at RC. You'll have to reach in deep to get pro, holds, etc.

 

Moving into the 5.5/5.6 range offers better protection scenarios, as the cracks are narrowing up a bit more (hand and fist jams, foot jams). By the time you're in the 5.7 to 5.8 climbs, you're doing finger and toe jams. Although we're talking about RC right now, do not miss the opportunity to get on Ed's Jam at The Bend, just upriver. There is no finer a 5.8 crack in the entire state as easily protectable as EJ, IMHO.

 

By 5.9/5.10, finger locks and smears and edging become de rigeur. By 5.11, it's tough crimping and deft edging almost exclusively. But then, I've only done a couple of 11's at RC, and that was a hella while back.

 

Regarding the notion that RC is a sandbag haven, I say Pfffft! It's as fairly graded as any classic destination climbing area. Everything I've climbed there over the past 20-odd years is spot-on for the grade. Ya, I know, this argument has been had on this board a bazillion times before, and I'm not gonna engage anyone in it again. However, I strongly feel that the route pioneers at RC did an excellent job of selecting the ratings. They fit nicely with what I grew up climbing. Now if they could just get rid of the rattlers...

 

it's been a awhile since I was there, but I believe Western Front (5.3) has mostly good protection with pro in the normal size range - you just need a couple bigger pieces to cover those spots where you need it (say #10-11 hexes and maybe a #3 and #4 C4)

 

 

[sobo]

...I believe Western Front (5.3) has mostly good protection with pro in the normal size range - you just need a couple bigger pieces to cover those spots where you need it (say #10-11 hexes and maybe a #3 and #4 C4)

Precisely, which is why I said this:

lower grades at Royal Columns will lend themselves to less protection opportunities.

As in, most newbie trad leaders will not have an extensive rack from which to pluck the necessary larger protective pieces for the wider off widths inherent for the grade, and...

 

Most climbs in this range are off-widths at RC.

which goes back to the above.

 

I'm just letting Stewster know what she's getting herself into if she's going to head up the "really easy graded" low-end climbs at RC. They are not sandbagged; I just want her to know that the injury potential is greater with these "walk-ups" than it is with the harder lines, and that she may find herself wanting a few more larger pieces that she might already own/have available.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

...I believe Western Front (5.3) has mostly good protection with pro in the normal size range - you just need a couple bigger pieces to cover those spots where you need it (say #10-11 hexes and maybe a #3 and #4 C4)

Precisely, which is why I said this:

 

 

???

 

But I know what you are saying - there are some places on those routes where the crack is wide, and if you don't have a big piece at a key spot, you may be SOL. But, there's only a couple of spots like that. It's not like you have to have a rack with a buttload of large cams, hexes, and big bros.

 

The first time I led Western Front I didn't have any big pieces and nobody warned me. About 20 feet up I placed a hex as psych-pro and moved up, only to hear it rattle down as I passed it. At that point I would probably have hit the deck if I fell. I moved up a couple of moves to where the crack was smaller and placed a piece.

[sobo]

...The first time I led Western Front I didn't have any big pieces and nobody warned me. About 20 feet up I placed a hex as psych-pro and moved up, only to hear it rattle down as I passed it. At that point I would probably have hit the deck if I fell.

 

All I was hoping to accomplish with my post was to help Stewster avoid just this. ^^

[KaskadskyjKozak]

...The first time I led Western Front I didn't have any big pieces and nobody warned me. About 20 feet up I placed a hex as psych-pro and moved up, only to hear it rattle down as I passed it. At that point I would probably have hit the deck if I fell.

 

All I was hoping to accomplish with my post was to help Stewster avoid just this. ^^

 

Well, my friend - also a newb at the time - led one of the routes on the left of Western Front with a smaller crack and almost took a leader fall. The slightly harder grade was a little too much. That put me off from trying the harder lead. My advice for any new leader in a new place is to go with someone who's been there before (or get their advice) and make sure you have enough pro of the right sizes to do the wider cracks (easier routes). If you have a mentor (or a rich friend who's starting out) you can borrow the pieces you don't have. :-)

 

Personally, I found Tieton scary as a new leader a couple of years ago. I'd recommend other places first, but that's me.

 

[rob]

I've never been to Tieton. The angle is pretty steep, isn't it? I mostly learned to lead at Leavenworth and Index.

 

The second pitch of Givler's Crack is, IMO, an excellent newbie lead. The pro is outstanding, and the jamming is like sex, and the fall is clean. I grin from ear-to-ear every time I lead it. Ditto to the 5.6 handcrack on GNS.

 

I thought Gibson's Crack was also a fun lead when I was starting out. I remember pausing for many long thoughtful moments at the "heinous 5.5 crux"

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I've never been to Tieton. The angle is pretty steep, isn't it? I mostly learned to lead at Leavenworth and Index.

 

The second pitch of Givler's Crack is, IMO, an excellent newbie lead. The pro is outstanding, and the jamming is like sex, and the fall is clean. I grin from ear-to-ear every time I lead it. Ditto to the 5.6 handcrack on GNS.

 

I thought Gibson's Crack was also a fun lead when I was starting out. I remember pausing for many long thoughtful moments at

the "heinous 5.5 crux"

 

Yes, Tieton is vertical. Some of the easiest routes there seem harder because of that (or because they really are sandbagged, but I'm not going to get into that argument).

 

And yes, crack climbing is fun.

 

 

[mattp]

There are three pretty friendly 5.8 crack climbs at the Pearly Gates (Leavenworth) that will take as much pro as you want to place.

[powdrx]

Don't forget Mush Maker (5.7) and Jam Exam (5.9) at Royal Columns!! I have led the former and followed the later. As a new leader, I found them both challenging for the grade, but nicely consistent. I think this place is great to start leading... I recommend some hexes here as some of the cracks flare a bit.

[rob]

I recommend some hexes here as some of the cracks flare a bit.

 

This statement doesn't make sense to me.

[mkporwit]

Well, hexes are tapered on the ends, so endwise placements could be used to protect slightly flaring, not-quite vertical cracks... maybe...

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I recommend some hexes here as some of the cracks flare a bit.

 

This statement doesn't make sense to me.

 

inward flaring

[powdrx]

Yeah sorry about that, they flare inside, so you throw a cam in to fit the slot, but it flares away inside and the cams walks back or opens inside. I've found hexes work well in places where the cams won't. Good time to learn that kind of pro and they are cheaper to get a starter rack going.

[catbirdseat]

I think the fist pitch of Roger's Corner is good. Don't make the mistake of doing the second pitch though. It would be unlikely after you saw it.

 

Senior Citizens in Outer Space is a good one. I think it's 5.8. It's the only climb I ever thought was soft at Index. On the other hand, stemming is my strong suit.

[RuMR]

any easy trad route suggestions at Tieton? I'm headed there today...

Be aware that the lower grades at Royal Columns will lend themselves to less protection opportunities. This is because the cracks are rather wide in the 5.3/5.4 range, although the climbing is super easy and straightforward. Pay attention that the injury potential on these lesser-graded climbs is generally greater than the harder routes. Take Apprentice (5.3), for example, as someone mentioned. More that a few budding trad leaders have had their ankles/knees/elbows/legs/arms meet an untimely end on that climb. Most climbs in this range are off-widths at RC. You'll have to reach in deep to get pro, holds, etc.

 

Moving into the 5.5/5.6 range offers better protection scenarios, as the cracks are narrowing up a bit more (hand and fist jams, foot jams). By the time you're in the 5.7 to 5.8 climbs, you're doing finger and toe jams. Although we're talking about RC right now, do not miss the opportunity to get on Ed's Jam at The Bend, just upriver. There is no finer a 5.8 crack in the entire state as easily protectable as EJ, IMHO.

 

By 5.9/5.10, finger locks and smears and edging become de rigeur. By 5.11, it's tough crimping and deft edging almost exclusively. But then, I've only done a couple of 11's at RC, and that was a hella while back.

 

Regarding the notion that RC is a sandbag haven, I say Pfffft! It's as fairly graded as any classic destination climbing area. Everything I've climbed there over the past 20-odd years is spot-on for the grade. Ya, I know, this argument has been had on this board a bazillion times before, and I'm not gonna engage anyone in it again. However, I strongly feel that the route pioneers at RC did an excellent job of selecting the ratings. They fit nicely with what I grew up climbing. Now if they could just get rid of the rattlers...

 

it's been a awhile since I was there, but I believe Western Front (5.3) has mostly good protection with pro in the normal size range - you just need a couple bigger pieces to cover those spots where you need it (say #10-11 hexes and maybe a #3 and #4 C4)

 

5.3 is protection in and of itself...

[KaskadskyjKozak]

5.3 is protection in and of itself...

 

On that route I would tend to agree. But shit can always happen (eg rockfall esp. party-induced).

 

[RuMR]

other people are aid...

Edited May 20, 2008 by RuMR