denalidave Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I was on the black velvet wall some years back, cant remember which route, I think it was Sour Mash. Anyway, this guy on Fiddler On The Roof next to us is going on and on about what an awesome route it is... Best route on the wall, best route in Red Rocks, on and on. Few pitches later, when it gets really thin and run out on manky rp's & small nuts, his tune changes to way gripped out of his mind and he is freaking out. Next thing I know, I hear all this scraping and jingle jangling. I look over just as his is about half way through a huge ride. The dude took at least a 60-70+ footer and some small nut held. Much to his credit, he re-led and finished the pitch. We all finished rapping off at the same time and happen to meet up at the base of the routes and this guy looked worked. Kinda had that vacant thousand yard stare thing. Good on him for him sacking up and redoing it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 i'd tell my tales of whoa, but apparently it's been done before and not worth repeating, anyway john fried doesn't like when i mention the word el cap and i don't wanna crossfit him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 i'd tell my tales of whoa, but apparently it's been done before and not worth repeating, anyway john fried doesn't like when i mention the word el cap and i don't wanna crossfit him. Â Can we have a link please? I must be out of the loop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 just take a bite and you'll be in the loop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 I really want to hear this story now ^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Â Did you intentionally shock-load a bolt or other fixed gear for fun? If so, Â Hey, don't you work at UW? Scientist or some shizzle? Â Wanna give me a definition for "shock load" there sport? Â I can't seem to find it in my fizix book. Â Â Â Â How much force you think he applied to that bolt? I'd wager it's on the order of 5kN. Certainly not going to damage the bolt. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I wonder what was the biggest fall onto an ice screw that was survived? Â This winter I had a Canadian guide telling me about a 200 footer that went straight onto a ice screw anchor. So stunned I forgot to get the rest of the details. But no one died. Â Personally? Held a 150 footer that anyone can repeat on Liberty Bell. From the top of the slab down to the anchors at the end of the crack system. Only injury was a scuffed up back coming over the roof that got a little stiff and sore on my partner. Held that one on a body belay btw. Taken? 75 footer of air off an 90' .11b. Inattentive belayer and taking in some slack helped get in the distance. That one was on a 2" swami belt with no ill effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Â Did you intentionally shock-load a bolt or other fixed gear for fun? If so, Â Hey, don't you work at UW? Scientist or some shizzle? Â Wanna give me a definition for "shock load" there sport? Â I can't seem to find it in my fizix book. Â How much force you think he applied to that bolt? I'd wager it's on the order of 5kN. Certainly not going to damage the bolt. Â I'm certainly not a fizixist. You could be right. It certainly helps he was a skinny 11yo kid and not a big dude like in that video... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I'm certainly not a fizixist. You could be right. It certainly helps he was a skinny 11yo kid and not a big dude like in that video... Â No. It doesn't. He was on a dynamic rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 When I first started climbing I had someone drop me from the top of a short TR problem (~30 feet) to the deck. I had reached the top of the route and got the usual, "I've got you" call from the belayer. As I leaned back, I started running backwards until I hit the deck. I was lucky; since I was a new climber, I had a helmet on and I landed in the dirt (no jagged rock pile). If I had been about 2-3 feet to the left, I would have hit a nice sharp 2 foot high rock. Good times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Big Show Wall is used for swings all the time, the rope is taught like a dan osman bridge swing/fall type thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateF Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 How much force you think he applied to that bolt? I'd wager it's on the order of 5kN. Certainly not going to damage the bolt. Â yep, fall factor is about 1. shock load will be below 5kN as long as he weighed less than 200 lbs or so. there are a couple of calculation tools you can google for that calculate this stuff based on typical rope stretch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 How much force you think he applied to that bolt? I'd wager it's on the order of 5kN. Certainly not going to damage the bolt.  yep, fall factor is about 1. shock load will be below 5kN as long as he weighed less than 200 lbs or so. there are a couple of calculation tools you can google for that calculate this stuff based on typical rope stretch  Ya, I weighed about 90 ibs then.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 A story or two down there is a biggie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 (edited) sick...its from Waynes Epic Page...This story is so brutal, I will stick with just the facts, maam. Labor day 1994 It was the year of my divorce and I was very messed up by it. I was depressed constantly and today was no exception. Tim and I head for a new route on Wind mt on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge. There was a big dihedral at the top of an 800 foot wall. The approach was a very bad talus field. The approach pitches were typical bad Gorge 4th class and alot of it. When we got to the last few hundred feet of the wall, it steepend into the climb itself.The approach to it was very steep though too. It led to a cave that had an old and broken bolt just off the deck. Someone had tried it before. It didnt have a proper belay though, so Tim set about with the cordless roto to put in a couple of bolts. In my impatient state I started up. After 20 feet up I notice the rock getting loose. I was still not on belay . Tim had not even tied into the rope. I saw a fixed pin another 10 feet up and thought it would be safe to get to it. It didnt seem like it was a good piece and the webbing made me think it was an ancient back off. I wasnt going to go any further until Tim had me on. I was curious as to what was ahead though, so I leaned back . The entire rock face around and below then cut loose . I was falling in slow motion in an asteroid belt. The first collision happened at 60 feet. I went for a giant bounce on my way to an 600 foot fall. 20 feet later the rocks suddenly sped up. That meant I was stopping, but how? Tim dropped the drill and grabbed the rope as it sizzled by with his bare hands. It had ran through the broken bolt.It held and I was stopped at the end of my first bounce. The wind was knocked out of me for minutes. I couldnt see Tim but could hear him freaking out. I wanted to tell him I was relatively OK, but I couldnt talk or move well. I knew I had broken bones but coudnt tell how many. My back felt awful as I had hit on my tailbone. Tim fixed the line an scampered to a place he could see me. I gave him a thumbs up and the rescue was on. It took hours and the walk down was terrible.We eventually made it the hospital for x-rays and Tim had his hands bandaged. Thanks Tim, You saved more than my life. I apologize too for the situation, I know it wasnt easy for you, Wayne I went back a couple of weeks later in a cast to retrieve the gear we left. Steve Elder later went and did the route solo. The rock scar is visible from the Oregon side of the Gorge. The Indians consider the mountain cursed. Edited April 3, 2008 by cheamclimber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted April 2, 2008 Author Share Posted April 2, 2008 Thats not my story BTW^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 Why don't you just say that it was posted from Wayne Wallace's site, the "Epics" page? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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