denalidave Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Use your nut tool hook to get your rock shoe laces nice and tight at the toe end for those really hard footwork routes. Quote
Drederek Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Always count calories/weight of the food you bring. Pure oil is 9 calories/gram and is the highest calorie content of any edible material (the fattier the food, the better weight savings, at least in your pack, maybe not on your thighs). Peanut butter is the best actual food item, packing 6-7 calories/gram. Don't bring food that's less than 4 calories/gram. Alternating Snickers - Paydays is the fuel of champions. Plan your actual food intake to be ~2000 calories per day. I've never wished I had more food than this. Sure, you can eat more, but you'll just poop more. Leave the camera at home. You won't miss it. You're the only one who actually enjoys looking at your pictures anyway, although your SO will never let on this is true. So 1 cup of lard per day? Quote
cbcbd Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Or, just bring an extra headlamp that weighs less the extra batteries http://www.ems.com/catalog/product_detail_square.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442597120&emssrcid=GoogleBase Agreed, I know take a Petzl E-lite as the backup instead of extra batteries. Figure it beats trying to switch AAA batteries in the dark with gloves on. Quote
Cairns Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Leave the camera at home. You won't miss it. You're the only one who actually enjoys looking at your pictures anyway, although your SO will never let on this is true. Peanut butter, yes, leaving the camera I would only do where the survival chances on the route seem marginal. In your golden years you will want a visual of the way your partner's face looked when they broke that shoelace, or whatever. It is true, though, that actually climbing is a far better experience without a photographer in the party. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 You can keep sun screen out of the eyes from sweating by putting Chap Stick on your eye brows. It was Mr. Simmonds who told me this. I know he posts here sometimes, but can’t remember his first name. use lip balm with sunscreen protection around your nostrils. It will stay on better than sunscreen and keep you from chapping/burning/peeling better Quote
Bug Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 I had a sunscreen wipe (spf30) once. It was really handy. I wipe my nose a lot in cold and wind and it was nice to be able to pull it out of my pocket and baggy and wipe my nose with it periodically to re-apply. It was the only time I have come down from Rainier with no burn around my nostrils. Quote
sobo Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 wet wipes and body glide. TMI Tipping dangerously close to spray, here, fellas... Please respect the OP's request. Thank you, and we now return to your regularly scheduled program. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Climb with Ivan. He brings whiskey. An old one, courtesy of Lowell Skoog: use bicycle toe clip straps to strap on tools, water bottles to your shoulder straps or waist belt, etc. They're bomb proof (velcro straps will lead to lost gear in the brush), and make great emergency repair items. Use tin foil as a stove wind screen. Makes a great hat, too. In the snow, put your stove on tree bark. Carry six point aluminum crampons for moderate slopes or if you 'might' need them. Use neosporine as a body lube if you've already scored some chafing. It also works as a temporary ski skin wax in a pinch. An ice climbing tip from Jens: wear an approach under shirt and pair of gloves, then put on dry stuff for the climb. Quote
ivan Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 wet wipes and body glide. a must for me on multi-day summer trips: baby-powder. lots and lots and lots of it. works fine as chalk too Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 wet wipes and body glide. TMI Tipping dangerously close to spray, here, fellas... Please respect the OP's request. Thank you, and we now return to your regularly scheduled program. lighten up, man, it's friendly joking. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 General (but obvious) tip: don't carry too much water. Quote
ivan Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Climb with Ivan. He brings whiskey. i learned from my master, Lord Layton. coupled w/ smokes and the aforementioned happy pills and there's no epic that can't be laughed at, even while in progress quarter-pounders w/ cheese. take the box too. nothing better than being many miles from nowhere and "loving it!" tvash's tip from nelson about toe-straps was critical in fixing a severely mangled snow-shoe and sparing me epic insanity in the sawtooth this past winter - duck tape and ghetto-mindedness woulda worked, but the toe strap was much better. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 (edited) To increase friction when rapping on thin or single ropes: clip your rap device to the end of a runner girth hitched to your belay loop. The longer the runner, the greater the friction. Ice climbing: pre cut and tie your v threads to save time enroute. 68" lengths will give you the perfect <60 degree angles all around when using 6 or 7mm line, double fishermens, and 22 cm screws. That's finger tip to finger tip, outstretched arms for an average guy of 5'10". Edited March 21, 2008 by tvashtarkatena Quote
sobo Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 wet wipes and body glide. TMI Tipping dangerously close to spray, here, fellas... Please respect the OP's request. Thank you, and we now return to your regularly scheduled program. lighten up, man, it's friendly joking. 5K, sense sarcasm, will ya? Note the underlined sentence. Quote
ivan Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 or, for fat folks like me on rappel, just add more biners to the belay device/rope - at 250 lbs in my harness n' shoes n' gear, i always use 2 biners on raps where i'll be hanging out from the wall Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 wet wipes and body glide. TMI Tipping dangerously close to spray, here, fellas... Please respect the OP's request. Thank you, and we now return to your regularly scheduled program. lighten up, man, it's friendly joking. 5K, sense sarcasm, will ya? Note the underlined sentence. an emoticon would have made your point clear. Quote
sobo Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 point taken. filed for future reference. NOW GET BACK TO WORK!!!1 ALL OF YOU!!!1 Quote
Bug Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 When rapping off a wall, clip a draw to your harness and the other end to the rope you need to pull. It keeps the memory problems at bay and keeps the rope from getting twisted. It does not keep your mind from getting twisted nor does it untwist your mind. Quote
Bug Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 If you bury food in the snow, bury it VERY deep. Take into account meltage and desperate snaffles. Quote
Bug Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Take a small bottle of Purell to use after freshening up. It will keep your friends from getting jiardia. Make them use it too. Quote
Bug Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 When you get to a cold camp, change out of wet shirt and eat a little bit of easily dogested food. If you eat too much, it will cause too much blood to go to your stomach and you will get chilled. Quote
Bug Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Cheap light fire starters; tie a little light twine in a small bundle and dip it in wax a few times. It will light easily and burn about 10 times longer than a match. Quote
Bug Posted March 21, 2008 Posted March 21, 2008 Put your false teeth in a baggy so the snaffles don't pee on them. Quote
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