Famous fixed gear! Who?

[Blake]

I think there has been a Metolius 4CU somewhere off to the left near the flake on Godzilla. Maybe Orange or Red size. I remember seeing every time I has climbed that pitch.

 

Is there still a fixed DMM nut low-down on the 3rd pitch of NAD at Index? Sol got it stuck there a couple years ago and it was there last June.

[kevbone]

I agree with Ivan…..Beacon has some serious historical fixed bolts and pitons. Some of it is just for looks…..only a fool would trust it.

[ivan]

Some of it is just for looks..only a fool would trust it.

naw, it's all great, even for an 1/8th of a ton sized guerilla like meself - espeically the 10 in a row "flexy" pitons on "flight time!"

[selkirk]

One fun thing I like to do to screw with my climbing partner is to lead a pitch and not mention the fixed gear. If it's not too beat up and he can't tell if it's part of my rack, I just sit there while he swears and labors to get it out. He'll eventually free it and that's when I break the news that he just bootied a paper weight. It's surprising what aid climbers do when motivated.

 

Accidentally did that to a buddy on the last pitch of Zebra-Zion down at Smith There's a fixed WC nut up there he spent a good 10 min beating at, while hanging on one arm

 

Personal cam ratio is only at +1, but the cam was only about 6 months old Found a "fixed" ultralight TCU about 6 months after they had been released.

 

What I really want to know is how many cam's and hexes are behind the flake on Givler's crack?

[MATT_B]

I always liked the old bolts on the pioneer route and west face of monkey face. The old pins pounded into the bolt holes on Stines pillar where kind of crazy too. I think those are all or mostly gone now. Giants stair case on French's dome had some cool old bolts. I also liked the big bolts set in concrete on top of rooster rock in the Columbia gorge. For better or worse you see less and less of that mystery mank now days.

[fgw]

The old pins pounded into the bolt holes on Stines pillar where kind of crazy too. I think those are all or mostly gone now.

 

Those were still there 3 or so years ago. Lots of mank still around - esp. on Oregon Towers that don't see much traffic.

[pink]

the tree of a thousand slings on the descent off of the leaning tower.

[MATT_B]

the tree of a thousand slings on the descent off of the leaning tower.

 

Good one. Too bad the "evil tree" wasn't still up there.

[pink]

crazy makeshift hangers and ducttape for tie offs warren harding style on the porcelain wall just down and right from half dome.

Edited March 4, 2008 by pink

[pink]

the rivet ladders on walls like WOTEML and tangerine trip.

[pink]

what about famous chipped holds?

 

the jardine traverse....

[pink]

the fixed penji rope on the royal arches.

[pink]

the compressor on the compressor route

[MATT_B]

- rotton log on royal arches, now gone

- bolts on last pitch of the nose, don't think any of the origionals are left but there were some old ones when I was there

- the iron spikes used of the first ascent of .5 dome, if I rember the story correctly those where left fixed.

- anchor bolts on the durance route on devils tower

- The one of the few climbs I have done at index had some masive iron rings for anchors. I assume those are from the old mining days or something

[pink]

was that log put there or was it natural

[MATT_B]

was that log put there or was it natural

 

It was natural so maybe you couldn't call it "fixed". great story none the less (see 50 classic climbs of north america).

[fgw]

SnailEye, this I think is what you were referring to from steins. last one is the rap set up on top of pillars of hercules (sticks & moss).

 

 

 

[chirp]

Out of state, but I still smile when I think of Touchstone in Zion, the fixed rurp at the beginning of the roof was super mank looking and always fun to move off of.

 

On the old hueco start first pitch, the fixed Railroad spike and NPS lock is also a nice touch.

 

Further cementing ___'s respect for authority

[kevbone]

The fixed line on the very start of Epinephrine.

[G-spotter]

The pounded in Titon in the wide flare at the start of the last pitch of Sunblessed. With shitty bleached out webbing that will barely hold a pull let alone a fall.

[billcoe]

SnailEye, this I think is what you were referring to from steins. last one is the rap set up on top of pillars of hercules (sticks & moss).

 

Nice stuff FGW!

 

That stuff from Steins is probably gonna last for many more years since it's so dry over there and rarely climbed. When I did Pillars with Petrosky back when, it was tattered slings around the bush mound there. Nice to see an upgrade! I had heard it was illegal to climb there now because of the railroad, but I don't recall seeing any signs preventing you from doing it.

 

[fgw]

"I had heard it was illegal to climb there now because of the railroad, but I don't recall seeing any signs preventing you from doing it."

 

Bill, I heard rummors of that too (did it 2 years ago?). We were trying to wait out a stopped train at the "trailhead" next to the tracks but after some time decided to look for a different approach. Drove up to that little state park up above the pillars and bushwhacked in. This way you're pretty much invisible to all until you turn the corner midway up the easy route.

 

Found similar treasures on Turkey Monster last summer too. Will post pic's later.

[Z-Man]

There's a fixed #2 camalot in the chimney many people climb up high on the NE butt of J-Berg, seems to have been there at least a few years, anyone know who left that there?

 

Seems like many of the peaks and routes around Washington Pass have loads of gear stuck in them. One trip to the Wine Spires last year netted two cams, one tricam, two nuts, five biners, and several usable pieces of tat.

[ScottP]

usable pieces of tat

 

A guy I know refers to the south face of the Tooth as the "Mountaineer's runner donation station." He goes up every year and scores fresh webbing for all his climbing needs. He's told me stories about soloing up behind a party of Mountaineers, waiting on the summit until they've rapped off and then soloing down, snagging the new runners that were just left at each station.

[jfs1978]

Well, hardly famous but..might as well chime in...and add to the inventory of booty-able gear out there...

 

Worked on a shiny #4 Metolius at the base of the offwidth pitch on Dragontail's backbone arete last August. Another 5 minutes and it woulda been booty. Looked to be in good shape too dammit.